With the warmer weather, supposedly, on its way and first light getting earlier and earlier Rongy, Howsie and I have decided to once again start up a weekday before works climb. I don’t intend to record every session, as it will get a bit repetitive, but this one is warranted it is the first. On the way up the scarp driving through state forest, as light was just creeping into the sky, I avoided a number of kangaroos. I also spotted an echidna crossing the road. While I have seen these guys up close and personal many times before, it was the first sighting in what I consider my own back yard. While I stopped to check it out, he was quick to scoot off the road and into the bush:
The above image was taken at ten past five… may the proceeding begin! Rongy was a little late arriving but still in time to join us for the first line. Being the first session we haven’t sorted travel arrangements and will endeavour to reduce our carbon emissions for future sessions, with at least two of us carpooling. The great thing about these early morning sessions is that we get hew place to ourselves. After the last few daytime trips here with families and tourists staring at, photographing and even videoing us it felt very nice indeed:
The only on watchers this morning were a bunch of kookaburras. After an hour or so they got bored, or realised that there would be no food scraps from us and moved on. Of course and as to be expected we heard the distant cawing of the red-tailed cockatoos, but there was no other sound to disturb our concentration. The intention of these sessions is more to get us climbing fit. Also for Rongy and Howsie it is also an easy way for them to squeeze a climb in during their changing lifestyles, with ever more demands on their time:
This being evident by how few weekends they have got out on rock. In fact they both found a number of the routes here unfamiliar, despite having both led them numerous times over the years. They were also lacing the usual climbing stamina they once had. At times I could tell they were starting to tire, question what to do and/or yoyo wasting precious strength. So on occasion I guided them as to where either a hand or foot hold was, and how to best use them. Almost to millimetre accuracy. It’s not something I would normally do. However for today, seeing they were getting back into it the beta was very well received:
You could at a stretch call these before work sessions training, not that I like to think of them as such. But we are very focused and organised to maximise the climbing time. If you check the second image you’ll see Howsie cleaning the line he finished, as Rongy starts up the next one. Two sets of draws and ropes and a well-planned attack keeps us moving, and there isn’t a lot of rest between climbs for anyone. Today we picked six lines that we were comfortable with meant we could smash out the quota in less than three hours:
For this first session only one person led each line, the other two seconded up with the rope above. As we continue these quick fire morning climbs this will change and we will pull the rope every time, but for today we were easing back into it. Hitting six lines in rapid succession on the steep technical walls of Welly Dam can be pretty intense, so I’ll have to be careful not to overdo it especially as we start to jump on the harder lines on offer. Even after finishing up there is no dilly-dallying, it is then time to drive back down the scarp to Bunbury, work and today rain:
It’s amazing just how many walks are dotted about the place, and I seem to be hearing about them as more people cotton on to my growing flower fetish. The most recent one being a spot out in the Wheatbelt reputedly littered with orchids, including several I have not as yet personally sighted. But that place is a two-hour trip, one way, so it is tempting to leave it for next spring. Today Lisa and I didn’t fancy going too far away, and we opted for a quick 45min drive to a short walk that Glen mentioned to me just yesterday:
The Kondil Wildflower Walk is just out of Nannup and offers three walks the longest a mere 3.3km. Strangely several websites suggested allowing up to three hours for this walk. Lisa and I, even when I’m in full “look at the one, and that one, and that one…” mode, can cover 3km in an hour, so either this walk was overflowing with treasures or they were making allowances for the real, really, really unfit. The general area was forested for the Allocasuarina tree in the early 1900’s when Barrabup Mill was operational:
Casuarina comes from the neo-Latin word of casuarius, which means Cassowary. The tree looks a bit like a pine with thin spindly leaves that droop down, very much like the feathers of the Cassowary bird (but also the more broadly distributed Emu in my mind). Allos means other, in Greek, and was used to describe this endemic Australian tree’s relationship with the broader Casuarina genus. When Lisa and I saw these trees, we pondered what they were and they reminded us of the Desert Oaks we used to see and love in Central Australia:
The Desert Oaks, or Allocasuarina decaisneana, are directly related to those found near Nanup, which have a common name of Sheoak, or Allocasuarina fraseriana. The name Sheoak being given as the timber resembled the deciduous Oak tree that the workers were familiar with from back in England. I seem to have digressed and talked about a whole heap of stuff I hadn’t intended too, and I’m sad to say I didn’t even take a picture of any Sheoaks. Instead my focus was on the smaller flowers dotted about the place:
So far I have included an image of Banksia grandis, commonly called the bull or giant banksia. What struck us about this tree, which was only just starting its journey, was the strange looking centre. We were not entirely sure what it was, but having checked it out it is now pretty obvious that they are the new leaves at a very early stage of development. The second image is of a Granny Bonnet pea, Isotropis cuneifolia. The flower was larger than most peas at close to 20mm across and had very clean and clear colours, with a lovely orange fringe round the petals:
We did pretty well and found seven or eight species of orchids on the walk, all of which we had previously seen or so we thought. If you look closely you will see a couple of Purple Enamels in the background of the image of a Pansy Orchid. The close up above and below are of the Scented Sun and then Blue Lady Orchid, and I purposely took the close up images to show the difference in the column and tufts. The Scented Sun Orchid being the most common of the sun orchids, and can grow up to a meter in height and have upwards of fifteen flowers on one stem:
The reason for including the image of Lisa walking ahead of me, was not because of mosquitos of which there were a few. But the nastier March Flies, it is warming up and it is the first time we have come across them on our walks. Mosquitos stick a needle in you, while in comparison the March Flies will take a pound of flesh. Lisa did however stop a few times including when we came across this next Scented Sun Orchid, and it was after this that we started to wonder if we were seeing different plants:
The petals and sepals on this one were much narrower and the flower looked much more star like. It seems that this could be either the Scented or Plain Sun Orchid, but they are hard to tell apart. All I can find to tell them apart is that the latter flowers slightly later in the season, but their flowering period does overlap. That is when I then started to question whether the shorter plants we were seeing, all of which looked to have wider petals, such as that in the close up image earlier on, may be the Shy or Slender Sun Orchid but other than size I could see no distinguishing features:
As I said we did pretty well on the Orchid front, and in addition to the above mentioned finds we saw Cowslips, Rattle Beaks, a single White Spider and several Forest Mantis. The latter were getting on in life and shrivelling up. While there are so many varied shapes and sizes of orchids in the South West of Western Australia, there is one thing in common and that is at the base of the flower is where the ovary sits. It is possible to tell if pollination has been successful, as the green pod between the stem and the flower will swell up:
To my untrained eye I’m going to take a stab and say the above Forrest Mantis was not successful with reproduction, which I say because for some other orchids I’ve seen the ovary has been very noticeably swollen and looking back at other images of Forest Mantises this one isn’t. Below was a pea that stood out for me, due to the tight cluster and the deep colours of the flowers. It seems this plant, endemic to the south-west of Western Australia (again!), has had a name change over the years. Originally named Burtonia conferta in 1825, and changed in 1987 to Gompholobium confertum:
I haven’t discovered the reason for the name change, but the term confertum means “crowded”. This does not relate to the cluster of flowers at the end of each branch, but the foliage itself. Despite the trails being relatively short and also in quite close proximity to each other, the area was lovely to wander through. Unless there were other people on the tracks, which only happened once for us, you would have no idea how close they were. Indeed, when we walked on the next circuit there’s no way we could have told we were within tens of meters of the last track:
I’ve mentioned both the Purple and Yellow Flag, or Patersonia sericea and umbrosa, and we saw plenty of them today. We did however find one plant that was definitely of the same genus, but I’ve been unable to identify the species. I hazard a guess that it may have been a single albino plant, but while the three petals were a soothing pale creamy colour the stamin was the same distinctive yellow of those found on the purple and yellow variety. I’ve been using Google Lens but can safely say for this trip it has been utterly useless:
We’ve also been spotting and taking a liking to the many native grass species. These are usually clumping and do not sprawl across and engulf the ground like the pasture or turf grasses that we have introduced. The seed or is it flower head of these grasses are architecturally fascinating, and they look like they have been created by a perfectionist with perfectly sized overlapping leaves with just a hint of colour graduation. The image below being of a Hooded Lily, Johnsonia lupulina, that was opening up in the warm sun:
One last pea, this one being Bossiaea linophylla and I can’t find a common name for it. Abundant and much smaller flowers than the other peas I have included in this post. But they stood out so brightly when the sun hit them. The flowers can be a bright yellow to orange or apricot-coloured or red flowers, and the fruit of this plant is known to attract the Western Rosella parrot. The reason I took the image was that I thought it was the plant from which I found the fruit or seedpods, but looking at the leaf structure now it is obvious I was wrong:
So now I have no idea what plant this was, but I simply couldn’t walk past these strange looking bulbous pods and had to include them. I have attempted to identify them with Google Lens and had some quite funny results. Originally leaving the app to pick out the part of the image to focus on it suggested they were peaches, then when I manually focused it on just one whole pod it came back with a pomegranate. Of course there is no way of telling Google Lens they are only 20-30mm in size, so you can understand the results. Needless to say I’ve given up on this one, but if I come across them again I will untangle the plants to see it I can track down any flowers that will hopefully be easier to identify:
Even packing in the two longer trails we were ready to leave within a few hours, which was a good job as the sun was out and it was getting warmer. It seems that dogs are allowed here, so Lisa has in mind to pop back with the poodles. If that happens sooner rather than later, I might get a chance to check the above pods out in more detail. But for now, we considered heading into Nannup for a bite to eat but have taken a liking to the Shelter in Busselton. So this is where we ended up for lunch and a celebratory beer to say cheers to twenty-one great years of marriage:
It’s been a while since Glen has been out on rock and this week he posted that he was keen to reinitiate his involvement in climbing. He also foolishly posted that last weekend he went out fishing, and left home at 4:30am. However, instead of capitalising on the chance for an early start and possible first light climb we were wandering down the path at 6:30 well after another glorious day had begun. The reason for not getting out so early was mostly because Glen self-confessed to not being all that fit, and it had been close to a year since he had touched rock:
Despite the long duration since he had climbed, and his very intermittent appearance on rock for a year or two before that, Glen hinted of two climbs he might consider leading. But before we got to that it felt only right for me to take the sharp end, allowing him to reassociate himself to what climbing felt like with the safety of a rope above. Tom Thumb is a fun route up a widening crack that almost gets to body width. As I watched his footwork looked a little cack-handed and I could see the extreme focus on his face, as he worked the route:
He indicated the first taste of rock was a bit of a rude awakening and his forearms were pumped. Also that his head was in a bit of a spin. So I was a little surprised when he said he would jump on lead, hitting the first route he had mentioned before. Twenty Questions was in his sights, and as is so often the case your ability and mindset can really change when you are leading. With the rope below the brain can sharpens and old skills can come back to the fore, as proven by Glen who really didn’t spend too long in getting up the line:
I had to encourage him to pop a piece of gear in a couple of occasions. As I could see from his movements he was tempted to move on and run out the gear. But other than the two interjections I was impressed with how he kept his cool and didn’t do anything silly. All of his gear was bomber, something I come to expect of Glen when he remembers to put it in, and is in part as a result of all his prior state emergency services training. The reason he was keen to come to Wilyabrup today was to jump on longer lines, as most other crags round here are relatively short:
I thought that may have been his undoing when I next led Thunder Thighs. The initial crack that is six or so meters long can feel insecure and technical. Then the upper section requires more focus on small holds, for the grade, up a steep wall. But he again impressed, and while I could see him shaking out a lot more than on the previous two routes he held it together. Today I was making sure my belays were set up to ensure that if Glen took a fall I’d be in a comfy position not needing to take any weight, but I never had to put any of the setups to the test:
The other route Glen had in mind to have a go at leading was Hope, but after the first three routes and based on how his body was feeling he sensibly lowered his sights. Instead he opted for the alternative start of Dunlop Special. I understood what he was thinking, in that he would have the initial steep wall to deal with after which the route would switch to a nice angled slab. So as his energy levels depleted the climbing would get less strenuous. That said, climbing is so much more a mental challenge than physical. And today Glen was definitely managing to control the mental strain, when the climbing got steeper:
Once on the slab he was able to relax a bit more, but his movements were getting slower and more deliberate. A sure sign of getting tired, but his well laid plan served him well and the easier angle provided lots of opportunity to rest that he sensibly made use of. I was all prepared to hear that it was time to wrap up for the day. But as we sat on top of the crag Glen said he was happy to follow me up Hope, comic to the self-realisation that it was probably a bit too hard for him today. As we wandered back down, it was close to ten and finally other people had arrived:
While there was currently only one small crew that had arrived, we were advised that a big mob of climbers were on their way down. While he seems to have an aversion to them, Glen confessed that early starts were great. Not only to avoid the sun but also the crowds. In addition for both of us climbing isn’t a sport and we come here to enjoy the place. While it may come across a little selfish, it feels like we can enjoy the setting more when the place is quiet and peaceful:
For those who know the route, you may notice what is wrong with the image above. While Glen had started well as he got half way up the crux sequence his head started to play games. I can say that as he had enough strength, will power and control to be able to traverse off the line, Heading left and up with no prior knowledge of what lay ahead, without slapping for holds or losing control. Also he probably expended more energy doing that than if had simply finished off the crux sequence. After his little detour he stood there shaking out his arms, as he watched out to sea. There was no rush, as we both watched a small pod of dolphins cruise past:
As we wandered back down more climbers were milling about, with more ropes and gear being taken out as we passed. We said a few hellos as we carried on towards the final route of the morning. I’m not entirely sure how or why but Glen was up for a final lead. I had previously pointed him towards First Climb, and it was decided that we would climb out with packs. However, I could see he was getting weary so we stuffed all of our gear into my pack ready for me to shoulder when I followed him out. That was a definitely a wise move, with Glen climbing slower and slower:
After each move he stopped looking for the next holds and where he might place gear. I could see him breathing more heavily and his body had that weird hanging posture that is not quite boneless but wanting to slump into a heap. Then, as he approached the part where he was supposed to launch into the corner he falter. Just like his last trip outdoors eleven months back, when I sent him up this very line, the corner drove fear into his heart and intimidated him to the point that he took the very same detour he did back then. He finished up Dunlop Special but there was no shame to it. Having managed to get up six routes, half of which he led, I really couldn’t bag him out… this time:
Kym and I have been trying, and failing, to tee up a weekend to catch up for some time now. The wet winter and now spring we have had has not helped our cause. But this Friday I had to head to Albany for work, helping out with a workshop that ran from nine till two. It seemed the weather gods where being kind to us and there was a possible window of opportunity aligned with this weekend, squeezed between yet two more prolonged wet periods. I rolled into Albany at eight on Friday morning and despite the forecast of dry weather it was raining, but I put those thoughts to one side and headed to work:
As with all good workshops it overran, but not by too much and I was at Kym’s place sipping on a cuppa by three. We would normally have a plan for our catch-ups, These normally comprise a classic big multi-pitch route, a remote hard to access crag, camping out and/or stunning new routes to bag. But this time we had no plans other than heading out to a local crag, and then see what gives. Kym and Meg live at the perfect location, for climbing, with so many crags and boulder fields within a short drive. It only took five minutes and we were parked up at The Gap:
This is a place that I have wanted to climb for many years, but have never got to. You may recall The Gap from the week long climbing trip with Rongy, Howsie and Andrew nearly a year back: https://sandbagged.blog/2020/11/13/south-coast-revisited/. It doesn’t feel like that long ago, but there you go. We had some wild weather on that trip and the day we came to The Gap we had no illusions of getting a climb in. We came to see the massive swell smash the coast, and it was spectacular. Today it was very different, despite the rainy start to the day it was now glorious and the rock had dried up just enough for us to have a play:
There are a few reasons I have not climbed here before. One being it is very close to the public and secondly it has a bit of a reputation for being hard. Neither reason should have put me off before, yes there are lots of people about but as I found out there are many spots where you can hide away from them. Even now with so many more people out and about due to the lack of travel allowed, we were soon out of sight and it felt like we had the whole place to ourselves. As for being hard, well there isn’t a lot of easy stuff and what makes those climbs feel even trickier is the climbing style:
Jamming is an old school traditional technique of climbing. Instead of finding a hold to curl your fingers round you wedge your body parts into a crack and hope that nought but friction will keep it there. Above Kym made use of a perfect hand jam, and while it is not a technique I will profess to be proficient in there are two things that make jamming here a bit more forgiving. The first is the smooth texture of the granite, so when you press your skin against the rock there are rarely any sharp crystals or rock surfaces that are sharp or painful. Secondly, Dan had kindly bought me a pair of crack gloves and they made a huge difference and provide greater friction, as well as protection for the back of your hand:
The first route things went well, it felt tougher than it should have. I could blame the 4am start or the rock that was a still bit greasy after all the rain and big swells of the week before. But, in truth it was my jamming style and ability that made me work that bit harder than I should have. After that, and following Kym up the route he led next, I felt more prepared mentally. Things or should I say jams slotted into place. And not just hand jams, also fist jams and arm bars. The final moves required a finger jam which had to be reached at full stretch. The fingers on my right hand didn’t quite get in deep enough, resulting in a painful slip should you care to zoom in to see the damage:
The routes may not be super long, but they are steep and strenuous and require the whole body to engage. There is no just using your arms and to climb well here you have to activate every muscle. Despite my body feeling it after just two routes the sun was still in the sky and it seemed silly not to make use of the daylight, so back down we went. One of the things I love about traditional climbs is the natural features or weaknesses that they follow, in which you can place protection. This route followed an amazing looking flake followed by a wide chimney that you had to wriggle your body up in an exposed position with limited protection:
I was a tad nervous, as it was the same grade as the route Kym had just led. But I needn’t have worried. That was maybe because it didn’t require jamming the whole way and had a fair bit of laybacking which I relish. Where you holding onto the flake and press your feet against the wall, a style that I feel I am not too shabby at. Despite the slip on the second route, all three climbs were very classy. Solid clean lines with sustained and interesting climbing. We made plans to come back here in the morning to hit more of the fine routes on offer. The grades would be going up, but I felt more prepared for them after my reintroduction to the art of jamming:
The evening and morning light are well known to provide the best light for photography. But, as the shadows grew longer and the orange hue of the lowering sun made things glow in that magical way we had the place to ourselves. The viewing platform stood eerily empty, as the sun drifted towards the horizon and mist from the crashing waves drifted up from The Gap. Both Kym and I felt weary but very satisfied, as we threw the packs back in the ute and drove off, wondering what the morning would bring. Back at the house I caught up with Meg and the kids, Beau had grown so much and was a right little chatter box. He, Tess and Claire were going well and as with any house with three young kids the place never seemed to stop:
Kym was working that night so he headed off soon before eight and I hit the sack, as their house started to go quiet. As is the way when I have an early start, I wake at a similar time for several days afterwards. It is almost as if my body gets rewired and it takes a few days to reset. Rather than disturb the household I headed out for a walk, and I soon realised I was pretty achy already without having hit the rock. Meg was making breakfast when I got back to the house and everyone was up. Being a Saturday morning with no school to get ready for everyone was fairly chilled and there didn’t seem to be that urgency of rushing into the day:
Kym rocked up soon after 7:30 and had a reasonably quiet night, even having managed to get a bit of sleep. I’m not sure how he manages to keep his energy levels up with the irregular work hours, study and of course the family. He and Meg somehow seem to make it work and whenever I come down they always seem to manage to have the energy to make me feel so welcome. He came back this morning raring to go, so it wasn’t long before we were back in the car for a short five minute drive. The water looked reasonable flat to my untrained eye Kym however suspected, and was right, as wandered around checking the various walls:
The swell hadn’t gone down, it just seemed flatter because the swell period was longer. But when the sets came in the rocky coast got pummelled. This resulted in spray drifting upwards landing on the rock and not only making it damp but giving it that greasy feel. Seeing the granite here is quite smooth. and you have to rely so heavily on friction to make those jams stick, the conditions were not looking favourable. Especially seeing we would have to up the grades if we went to the same area. Instead we wandered eastwards and the big waves, as shown in the video below, made it look likely that we might not get to climb here:
Whenever I think of The Gap at Albany, I tend to only consider of the main tourist feature where the paths and viewing platforms are. If you walk east from there the place is littered with rock faces. I was aware and had been to the amphitheatre before but today that too was wet. So we continued to the next area called Zig Zag, which I wasn’t even aware of and is a seldom if not rarely visited area. Kym had only climbed here a few times, and wasn’t even sure what the routes were. The rock looked marginally bit better here, and the lines looked fun so we dropped the packs and got ready:
We started today’s session a bit more sensibly, Kym pointed out a wide crack on the far wall in the sun. I was happy to jump on a more relaxed line to get the body moving the this offered that opportunity. As Kym set up his phone to capture the action, I sat and watched the waves occasionally looking up at the wide crack wondering how I would go. As I started up I wedged my hands, fists and arms in, and I felt comfortable and secure jamming my way up the first route of the day. It seemed kinda nice not knowing the routes or having an agenda, instead we scoped the place looking for lines that looked appealing and interesting. Then we just let the day unfold:
I was a little surprised when Kym opted for what looked to be a stiff opposition for just the second climb. A short but steep wall with a series of vertical and horizontal cracks that took you on a dog legged line up the face. It started with strenuous jamming and laybacking off the deck. On the steeper wall the jams felt a little less secure, with hands and feet squished in a narrow and more shallow crack. From the first horizontal break, tenuous and balancy moves on small rounded holds where needed to make it to the second horizontal break. All this made more nervous due to the dampness. And it was only then that the route really got serious:
You can see the line Kym followed, towards the left of the wall. The chalk marks giving it away. The top vertical crack was flared and difficult, even for Kym with all his jamming skills. By flared I mean that the sides were not parallel, with the crack being narrow at the back and wider at the face. These cracks are tough to jam, and Kym had a battle on his hands quite literally. And made all the harder with limited options for feet. He eventually unlocked it but it required pulling up on a dodgy jam, then in an unbalanced position releasing the jam and slapping the same hand higher up and hoping it would stick:
Having a rope above makes things feel not as bad, but there was no way I could climb the final crack of the route the way Kym had. I still had to jam the flared crack but the slap of faith was not in my repertoire of skills mentally or physically, so I had to work out a different way. It felt super strenuous when I eventually figured out what worked for me, and we both felt like the route had given us a right royal serve. After such a battle you would think we would pick something fun and a bit easier. But no, and added to that I’m sure an off-width crack is definitely not on everyone’s list of what they would call fun:
But we had lugged the big guns with us, the number five and six Camelots, and we had to use them at least once. I felt laddened down with all the hardware hanging off me, but it got used and I was very grateful for them once I got stuck into the meat of the crack. Too wide to fit hand or fist jams and too narrow to squeeze your body into. Arm bars also didn’t feel secure and added to that it was steep. It was a monstrous fight to be able to stay in and then try and move upwards. I had to use hand-stack jams, something I had never done before, and knee bars. Needless to say I fell out of it lots of times, and each time lost a bit more skin. By the time I topped out it felt like I had been put through a cheese grater, and we call this fun:
Kym also struggled but nowhere near as much as I had. With his far greater jamming skills coming into play, he seemed to make much lighted work of it and I think it is fair to say he probably didn’t lose any skin. This the style for much of Albany climbing, jamming rules down here and you either learn to do it right or struggle to get up many of the great lines. There are very, very few climbs where I live that require full on jamming. It is however a technique that I strangely enjoy. I just need to make more of an effort to get down here so I can hone my skills and learn how to avoid losing so much skin:
The next line was far more relaxed, and in many ways reminded me of climbing in the Peak District of England. The home of gritstone, famous in the climbing community, known for its gnarly trad routes https://sandbagged.blog/2017/07/30/part-4-the-peak-district-learning-the-ropes/. It has a very wide range of routes and there are literally thousands of them. As such I was able to and did avoid the lines with more full on jamming, instead opting for routes with layback flakes and technical walls. Kym was starting to get weary, not surprising after his night shift, but he battled his way up this fun route. It had funky moves between wide horizontal breaks that needed a bit of thought, and finished on a fun upper section with layback flakes:
There was one more route we had to bag, Kym felt it may not have been previously climbed. It looked great with what looked like, from the ground, just enough holds and gear to make it go. So I set off full of confidence until I got half way up. Here perched on the steep wall it became evident the spaced horizontal breaks were sloping downwards and not very deep. Small slopey holds and only friction for feet were between me and the top 5m above, plus the gear was unknown. Added to this the slightly greasy rock and my weary body made it less appealing, so I traversed left into the more obvious line to top out. One to leave for next time and better conditions:
It may seem that we hadn’t climbed a lot today, but our bodies told us otherwise. Plus these trips are not all about the climbing. Catching up and just being outdoors soaking up the atmosphere, which this place provided in bucket loads, is all part of it. Kym and I certainly felt we had had our fill. Plus I was driving the four hours home today and it would be nice to get back in daylight, which I managed only just. Walking out we came across Michael and Zed hauling lots of boulder mats in, we wished them luck thinking the conditions may not be what they were expecting. No matter, just like us having being spat off several routes, they will hopefully still have fun:
Lisa and I couldn’t work out when we had last visited this spot. I didn’t think it had been too many years but my images indicate it has been ten. Crooked Brook is a great hidden gem, not too far from where Lisa works in Boyanup. A possible reason this place is kept in tip-top condition is that it has been jointly managed by The Crooked Brook Forest Association, basically a bunch of volunteers, and state government for fifteen years. There is nothing like a sense of ownership to get people to come out, lend a hand and keep a place in good condition:
There are four walks ranging from a mere 700m to ten kilometres and we thought we had been round all of them, but as we set off on the longer hike it really didn’t feel familiar. The Crooked Brook Forest has a sliver of pine plantation reaching into it, and the start of the walk followed the divide between native bush and plantation along a wide track. I’ve said it before and stand by it that walking on such wide tracks just doesn’t give you that feeling of being in amongst nature. However, the pine forest with its open bare ground did remind me of good memories of a walk or two in the Netherlands many years back:
It felt like the plants were a long way away and it was easy to get into a big stride and not have a good look to see what was about. Fortunately the circuit, as we found out, was very varied and it went over granite hills and sandy swampy areas and as you can imagine this provided a continually changing floral display. So while it may have started a little bland on the flowers and colour front it certainly improved a lot. The interesting flower below caught our eye as it looked all velvety and soft and quite different to anything else. It’s an endemic plant to the area called a Pixie Mops, and is an understorey plant that doesn’t grow above a meter in height:
Within a short distance we were guided by the markers off the wide track and into the sort of path that we really enjoy. The Marri trees closed in and the ground cover was right by our feet. What struck us about this general area was that there didn’t seem to be too much thick understorey, and some places like below were very open. Unlike so many places we have walked this year, here the vegetation seemed to mostly go from upper storey straight to ground cover. Meaning you could gaze a long way into the bush and giving quite a different feel:
It certainly started full of greens and browns with only a splattering of colour. This was another flower that really caught out attention and we found them in both pink and white. The flower head certainly looked a lot like the small coastal groundcover we have seen so much of. These however were a shrub, with flower heads not so tightly packed and more sparse on longer branches. I’ve asked Howsie if he could identify it but without more images and detail all he could come up with was what I managed to find, in that it is a Pimelea:
There are some 150 species of this plant including about 110 in Australia and 36 in New Zealand, and they are commonly called Rice Flowers but I can’t find out why. They can be found as herbs, which I assume are the ones we have seen along the coast, or small shrubs which is what we found here. The flowers are easily distinguished as they are clumped at the end of the branch and comprise four petal-like sepals and two stamens, which can be clearly seen above. If I was being brave I’d guess that it may be a small shrub native to this area called Pimelea ferruginea:
As we went on our way the variety of flower we saw was super impressive, above it is clearly a Myrtle and Howsie has plumped for a Pink-flowered Myrtle or Hypocalymma angustifolium. We found these in both bright pink and this pale pink variety, so he could be on the money as it comes in different shades of pink through to white. One of the reasons I have included it, other than we were both quite taken at this dainty flower, was that if you look closely you’ll see a strand of a spider’s web coming of the last flower on the branch. We seemed to be walking through a lot of these but we never noticed any spiders:
The above image shows how some areas lit up and through these section we slowed down and had a bit more of a look about. The main colour in this image being the brown orange from yet another pea, I thought it may be a Chorizema, but Howsie is probably right with Bossiaea ornata. Regardless of that the story of how Chorizema got its name is way to interesting to not include. It was first recorded by explorers in 1792 and the thirsty exploratory party spotted it near a waterhole, so they named it by linking two Greek words of choros (dance) and zema (a drinking vessel):
Another unusual aspect of this walk was that it had distance markers ever kilometre. And as per custom we had hauled a flask of tea and cheese sandwiches along with us. As well as other snacks that never made it out of the pack, maybe because it was easy walking and we didn’t need as many breaks to top up the energy levels. At the half way point we found a great spot to take a load off. I spotted this Shield beetle that stayed on the big stump that we used as both a table and chair the whole time we were there. You may be waiting for me to say I’m checking what it is on QuestaGame, but I have decided to stop using the App as I was spending way too long logging all my finds:
So instead I have been using Google Lens to give me a starting point and then research beyond that, for some things it has been great but others it has really struggled on. Now I’m sure you have been waiting with baited breathe to see how we went with Orchid hunting. Well it didn’t feel like that were too many but when we tallied up our find, which included the Forest Mantis, Giant Donkey, Purple Pansy, Purple Enamel, Pink Enamel, Cowslip, White Spider, Jug, Scented Sun, Blue Lady and King in his Carriage Orchid it wasn’t bad at all. But no species that I haven’t seen this year:
The King in his Carriage was a single plant and very much at the end of its life, but I was really happy to spot it so Lisa could see it. I also thought we were out of luck with spiders until we found three close together near the end of the walk. The most prominent orchids we saw were the Cowslips and Enamel Orchids and there were thousands. The latter started a bit of a game of trying to work out if they were pink or purple enamels, for example are these all the same or not. Some were a bit more obvious and we decided when we couldn’t work it our we’d call them pinkle:
Here is a plant that Google Lens suggested was a Chrysanthemum, which is obviously well off the mark. And Howsie has suggested maybe a Thomasia and as he usually is I reckon he is on the money. I’m going to go a step further and say it may be Thomasia grandiflora, commonly and very originally known as large-flowered thomasia. It’s another true local and endemic to the south-west of Western Australia. And the reason I think I’m right is that the flowers are described as a “pinkish-purple with a papery appearance hanging in pendants from the leaf axils”. This is exactly how I was going to describe it, just like the tissue paper flowers our daughter Elseya used to make:
The plants in the next image also really caught our attention, they seemed to pop up in certain areas in vast numbers and we have never seen them before. It wasn’t till the end of the walk that a little sign told us it was called a Pineapple Lily. However, checking it out online the state’s floral database suggests its name is the Pineapple Bush or Dasypogon hookeri. Other than telling me it is a perennial herb or tree-like monocot I can’t find anything out. I do however now know that monocots are grass-like flowering plants, of which only one leaf is capable of producing seeds:
While I haven’t included images to show it, the track did reach the edge of the forest and follow along the boundary with the rolling green pastures of the surrounding farmland. While some may not like the thought of that, it did provide a bigger mix of sights and we didn’t mind having a bit more of a vista every so often. Another aspect of this area that really appealed to Lisa was that it seemed you could take dogs here. We bumped into a few people out with their pooches, and while she said hello to the dogs I scoured the ground:
Above, and as we walked through the swampy area, there were heaps of basal leaves telling me orchids were about. But I couldn’t tell if they were yet to come out or had already bloomed and gone back to ground. In this area we only found enamel but that included this fine specimen of both a Pink and Purple Enamel next to each other. Lisa seemed to be able to distinguish the different colours better than me. And without getting into detail women tend to have better colour perception than men, it all comes down to how many and what sort of cones you have in your retina:
Most people’s colour visualization system is known as trichromacy, which means they see in three colours. But some people can see in four colours, having a tetrachromacy system and women are more likely to have this. So it is very possible that despite only confirming that I have found a Pink Enamel in my last post, I may have been finding them for years. As we neared the end of the hike we decided to add in an extra couple of kilometre loop in, as it had been such a lovely walk. I’m glad we did as we came across some beautiful red and green kangaroo paws, and while I had included in my last post Lisa was yet to see them:
Seeing things were going to warm up today we got down to the crag a bit earlier than previous months. It was not quite a first light for the first climb, but that will no doubt come as summer approaches. It seems with the better weather a few more of the local climbing crew were out and about and we saw Ash and Yohan, as well as a bunch of others milling about. In addition Mikey and Howsie were planning for a Sunday foray, so it is good to see a few more of the group getting out there. Not saying it was too early a start for Dan but he opted to head out for a sail instead seeing the conditions were so good for it:
When Jaime found out that it was just going to be her and me heading out she asked if Dan would be joining. On finding out that he was not, she contacted him to see if he would. Then late Friday night Rongy’s plans for the day had changed and he said he was keen for a climb, which made it three again. Jaimie didn’t known this till we picked her up in the early morning light, and she was a little relieved. The reason being that she hasn’t been out all that much and will confess isn’t very climbing fit:
Rongy is no different, life gets in the way sometimes and for an extended period now his presence has reduced a fair bit. But he has many years of experience under his belt, and that helps no end while Jaimie is still to be fair new to the game. I had already planned the day in my mind, going at a steady pace and aiming to hit four lines of equal grade. A grade that rarely gets climbed here at Wilyabrup. The reason for that is that the lines that happen to be at this grade are all a little obscure, rambly, inconsistent and if I dare say it more traditional in style:
I gave Rongy the option of which ones he was keen to lead, and he kicked the day off on Gutted. I thought it was one of the original 70s routes here but am mistaken and it was put up in 93. That surprised me as it is nowhere near as hard as a grade 16 and I feel in 93 they would have been more aware of that. But the wet crack at the top added a bit of extra excitement. I then jumped on Hole World, which felt more like it with a few tricky sections to it. Rongy however, wasn’t watching as I climbed nor as Jaimie went up. He instead was behind the lens observing action elsewhere:
On arrival, as we stood atop the cliff Jaime had spotted dolphins. They briefly appeared and were gone heading south. Rongy saw a fin and I saw none. Then as I was heading up my route she spotted another and large pod just to the north, just off from Driftwood Bay. They looked to be congregated in a circle as if they were feeding, fins popping out with the occasional body appearing. Staying in one spot forming a cycle to trap fish inside before individually darting through the centre and grabbing a feed, while the rest kept the meal contained:
Whether they were feeding or just teaching the young tricks of the trade was unclear. But after finishing they slowly cruise south right in front of where we were. I was belaying from above by then and was conflicted with watching and helping Jaimie past the higher tricky section or, as Rongy was, watching the action out to sea. It was a lovely show of jumps, body flops and a bit of wave surfing. This was the best image captured, and both of the adults look to have young with them making me think the original exercise we saw was a training exercise:
It was a stellar day and as we wanderer back down, it was unclear as to why no one else would have thought to come down. Each time we walked past the Inner Space Wall my eyes were drawn to English Ethics, but at four grades harder that was not on the agenda for today. Plus it was looking once more a bit damp with water seeping right down the line. Instead we headed to the opposite end of the crag to the Stormcock Area. Here Rongy jumped on a route that he didn’t even know existed and I can only recall leading once:
Jaime was happy to assume belay position again. Rongy and I asked each time she assume position if that was OK and she rightly pointed out later that we had all belayed the same amount just from different ends of the rope. I was really unsure of two things for this line, firstly if Rongy would like it, as not only had he not climbed it before but he didn’t know it existed. And secondly how Jaimie would find it. It was wet in this area being trapped away from sunlight or drying winds, and with overlaps and rooves above and the huge leaning block that forms the Stormcock to the side:
It is fair to say Rongy really, really liked the not so aptly named Consolation Prize . More three dimensional and traditional than many routes here with lots of variety of movement and climbing styles required. He was buzzing as he went up the route and even rated it highly, wondering how he had overlooked it for all these years. Then it was Jaimie turn and she too relishes these more traditional “all of body” type routes, and while she seemed to get into some interesting contorted positions she managed the climb and thoroughly enjoyed it:
This time as we wandered down a couple had set up a top rope on Unclaimed in the Fat Chance Area. This route, which Dan, Jaimie and I climbed on the last trip here, happens to be right next to Setting Sun and can be seen in the very first image of this post. Jaimie’s eyes were sharp today and not only had she spotted the dolphins, but as we climbed the first route she also spotted that there were draws on the three bolts of Setting Sun. The evidence being in the very first image. Rongy nor I were particular bothered in draws, as crag booty, and we never retrieved them:
We headed to our next climb, Rhys’s Rapid Retreat. The last 16 at Wilyabrup, if I exclude all the smaller buttresses that are a bit of a walk to the north of the Stormcock Area. I was a little surprised when I read we had given this route 16, I thought it was more feisty. It felt a bit harder on lead and as Jaimie came up she too struggled. Then when Rongy followed up he found a hold at the crux sequence that I have never noticed in the many times I have been on the route. With that beta I feel the route can be claimed to be only 16. This time as we walked down Yohan was back with a group of friends setting up a top rope next to English Ethics:
It was a bit of a Deja-vu from two weeks back, and put paid to any notion of me attempting English Ethics this time. Not that I was particularly motivated for it today. The couple were still on Unclaimed and seeing the draws on Setting Sun hadn’t belonged to anyone at the crag we let them know in case they wanted to grab them. Walking out Jaimie’s eyes again were on point, as she spied a Southern Heath Monitor ambling up the path ahead of us. It was 11 and the sun was hot, which is when we found Ash walking towards the crag to meet another Perth crew that had not yet arrived, I was personally happy to leave them to bake in the sun as it continued tracking to the west:
At work I’m not known for mingling or sitting in the tea room to have a yarn, and can usually be found tucked away in front of my computer getting on it. Some may say I’m a little introvert and others may say antisocial, but for me I’m there to work and live my life away from the office. However, Friday is my go a bit slower day and this week I actually took a lunch break and visited a small reserve a few minutes away. One website touts Manea Park as “Bunbury’s premier bush reserve” yet despite working so close to it, this was my first visit here:
A limestone track takes you on a loop walk that is just over 2km, and I had picked a bit of a stinker of a day to have a wander at lunchtime. The car thermometer told me the temperature was hitting thirty degrees, and it felt hot. Stretches of the track are however shaded by low shrubs and trees, and underneath these is an array of understorey that included what I had come out to see. In several sections there was evidence of where the Friends of Manea Park had been clearing weeds and revegetating with natives and when they found orchids they had fenced them off making them even easier to spot:
While the above and below images may seem the same they are different orchids. And before I tell you which ones they are here are a few words about orchids from the big man himself, Sir David Attenborough: “Each and every species of flowering plant has its own unique evolutionary story that’s closely coupled with the animals that pollinate it. But one family of flowering plant has developed this relationship in more complex ways than any other, and in doing so has become the most numerous, and diverse, on the planet.”:
In addition this this mighty claim, there are an estimated 25,000 species of orchid on the planet and this represents 10 per cent of all flowering plants. The south west of Western Australia contains about 400 species of orchids, which makes my tally this year of somewhere between 40 and 50 species seem a bit pathetic. But while I have raised my efforts in orchid hunting up a notch or two on previous years, I’m still not at the point of cataloguing my finds, hence not knowing precisely how many species I have found:
As I said earlier it was a hot day and I was not the only one out for a walk. I have often seen bobtails, but it is not often I have found a pair together. Back to orchids and you may easily recognise the Purple Enamel in the first image, I liked the image as it had two plants each with two flowers out. Most I have seen to date have only had a single flower. The next two are a Blue Lady Orchid and then Scented Sun Orchid, if you look closely you may see main difference of the petal and sepal shape and hue. When you get to detail the labellum is also different:
Manea Park is known for its wild flowers and there were a lot out, so I had to include just one which is the Orange Star. It was a very bright day so the image above may not do it justice, but the colours are a brilliant orange and it stands out amongst all the other flowering plants. This one grows in swamps and Manea Park has several wetlands, but unless you knew it you would not be able tell as you walk round the path. This plant is extremely sensitive to phytophthora, commonly called dieback:
I have just read that Phytophthora comes from two Greek words of phytón, meaning plant, and phthorá, meaning destruction. So literally translates as the plant-destroyer and it is devastatingly effective is doing so. Seeing the Orange Star was a good sign that this destructive plant pathogen has not, yet, taken hold in Manea Park. Again back to orchids, and I came across another species of spider orchid, this one being the Sandplain White Spider Orchid. Identifiable by amongst other things the four rows of mostly white calli, as well as ragged fringes, on the labellum:
It was time to head back to the office, and I have to say that I thoroughly enjoyed my wander. I might be tempted to head back there again, as I spotted quite a few orchids that were yet to bloom. Back in the office, a work colleague noticed an image of an orchid on my screen and showed me an image of a spider orchid he had found recently at a small reserve not far from where we live. So after work instead of heading home I drove out to Ruabon Nature Reserve, a small patch of bush I have driven past many times before and never even noticed:
I hadn’t asked for any details of where he had spotted the spider orchid, so I parked up on the side of the road and started to walk along some obvious vehicle tracks and then along kangaroo trails keeping an eye out. Just like at Manea Park I found a few regulars, including Pink Fairies, Cowslips, Purple Enamels. Common Mignonette and Mantis but not what I was looking for. I did however come across the above introduced South African Orchid, which was first recorded near Albany in 1944 and has now spread widely across the south west of Western Australia:
I eventually found where my work collage would have been, a track that lead to groundwater observation bores. Along this track I spotted the familiar leaf of the King in his Carriage Orchid, the green leaf above, and next to it was a deep red leaf that was elevated off the ground. This belongs to another orchid that I have been hoping to find, the Flying Duck Orchid. I found this one in varies stages of blossoming making me think I had found a whole heap of species, but it was the leaf images that told me later they were all one in the same:
I was not successful in finding any spider orchids, let alone the one that my work colleague had spotted and photographed. A reason I was keen to find it was because it seemed to me to be one that is found out in the Wheatbelt, a completely different environment to here. With the season we have been having there are new species being found and some species being found out of their previously thought range. It is therefore was possible I was right, but without personally spotting and trying to more positively identify it I sadly can’t tell:
I wouldn’t normally include two images of the same plant in a post, unless there is good reason such as the previous image of the spider I found making its home in the Sandplain White Spider Orchid. And similarly there is a reason for including a second enamel orchid image, as the one above includes both a Purple and Pink Enamel Orchid. It’s a subtle difference but a call I’m happy to make, both are supposed to be common throughout the south west and until now I have not found one that I felt confident in saying is the pink variety until now:
The other plant that I found at both locations, which I spent some time checking out was the Red and Green Kangaroo Paw. The colours on these plants were extremely vivid and contrasting making them stand out. However, unlike my increasing interest in orchids I will refrain from trying to find all eleven species of kangaroo paws. As I made my way back to the car to head home I couldn’t resist an image of the dirty brown looking clouds forming in the south, a sign of bushfires raging that were hopefully controlled burns:
Being the last weekend of the school holidays there was every chance the roads would be chockers. Meaning that later in the day the cars would slow to a snail’s pace, as the throngs of holiday makers head back up to Perth. So it made sense to pick a place to climb that was closer to home and would also avoid us travelling in the same direction as all the people heading home. The obvious place was Welly Dam and despite not arriving till seven, I didn’t see any cars at the mountain bike trails nor at the quarry when I arrived:
There was however this strange object, which wasn’t there the last time we climbed here. I just assumed it was a bar for kids to play on, but Dan suggested it was maybe a bike rack although not the sort that either of us had ever seen before. I was also a little confused by the inscription on the two sides, Wambenger Trails. Having looked it up, it seems this the name for the trails round Collie and it means brush-tailed phascogale. A small native marsupial that is supposed to be relatively common around Collie, but it is also a bit of an elusive creature:
I’ve seen them a couple of times before round where we live. They are mostly carnivorous and quite ferocious when they hunt. While the phascogale is so much smaller than a chicken they have been known to go for them, which is possibly why they visited our place in Capel where we had ducks and chickens galore. Steve was driving down from Perth to join us but early on car trouble struck with a coolant hose bursting. He wasn’t in his usual car in which he would have had a wide selection of things to help fix the problem:
However, being the ever resourceful fella he is he did have climbing tape, and that was enough to seal the hole well enough for him to make the journey back home. This was the shorter distance and more sensible option. So it was up to Dan and myself to bag a few routes, with less rests in-between climbs than we would have had if Steve had made it. I kicked things off running up Raging Torrent, a climb that is poorly understood and as such gets a bit of a bashing on the climbing website called The Crag. My reward was not only enjoying this fine line but also finding a few orchids at the top of the face:
Several patches of Common Donkey Orchids were in bloom, and a bunch of sun orchids were getting ready to blossom. This resulted in a slight interlude, as I scrambled up to inspect the local flora before Dan got to climb. While he has climbed here a fair bit he really couldn’t recall any of the routes, so when it was his turn he went for one that looked fun without really knowing what it was. Just Do It was a good choice, and while there was a bit of wet rock next to it the line was dry. In fact the whole place is finally starting to dry up after a wet winter, so wet that some people thought the reservoir would fill up and dam would spill. When this happens it is quite spectacular:
Unless we get a very wet October, which isn’t looking likely, there won’t be enough flow left this season to fill the dam and allow it to spill. The last time that happened was back in 2014. That said August was particularly wet and there was a huge inflow from the rivers, and now the reservoir is sitting at a healthy 91% full which is more than any year since 2014 (https://www.watercorporation.com.au/Our-water/Rainfall-and-dams/Dam-levels/Wellington-Dam). Talking of not filing up, I had just climbed A Walk in Central Park and it was nine thirty, and we still had the place to ourselves. The last few times I’ve climbed here, the place was getting pretty crowded by this time:
Dan’s stamina isn’t what it used to be, mostly due to a lack of contact time on rock resulting from COVID restrictions over east. So he was very grateful when the kettle went on to make a cuppa, allowing him to reset his energy levels. This seemed to work a treat and for his next lead he bumped up the grade and made clean work of Pole Voltz. Thoroughly enjoying the less powerful and more delicate and technical climbing it offered. Just to the left of this route is a rambling line Steve had been keen to lead today. This is his own creation called Scraggly Daggly Do, and follows an easy blocky crack line. Dan and I passed this line up leaving it for Steve to enjoy next time:
On top of Pole Voltz I spotted more sun orchids, and this time they were in bloom allowing me to identify them as the Scented Sun Orchid. All round there were heaps of flowers out and as I drove back home today the air was filled with the perfumed scent of the acacias. This made me think that Lisa and I should head up this way to hike round one of the trails in the next week or two. Before it gets too hot and dry, and the orchids start to disappear. It was my lead next and as we both seemed to be climbing well, and also due to Dan raising the bar, I jumped on Red Alert:
For most but not all the routes today we pulled the rope through after each lead, allowing us both to jump on the floppy end. It was as Dan was setting off after me that the number of people arriving started to increase, and one group in particular was fascinated with what we were doing. So much so that Dan may become Facebook or Insta famous, as several of them videoed and photographed his prowess on rock. They also posed in the foreground so they too could be part of the social media fame, should it come. I took a couple of sneaky images of them just prove I’m not making this up:
This is the kind of thing that has dampened the lure of Welly Dam for me this year. To avoid this occurring it is best to get here early, climb hard and fast and leave before the tourists arrive. Fortunately today the place never got too crowded, at least not to the same standard of other trips this year. For our last route Dan jumped on T3 and he was again being keenly observed and recorded, but when it was my turn the people still about left us to do our thing while they did theirs. While this influx of people isn’t great the climbing still is; so while I may bellyache about them I’ve no doubt we will come back here again soon:
This image just doesn’t do justice to the spectacle we were lucky to observe today, again due to the size of most of the flowers the colour is mostly lost amongst the foliage of the vegetation. Lisa and I have been to the Ambergate nature reserve a few times, last year we came here in spring (https://sandbagged.blog/2020/09/28/flower-power/) and then winter this year. Today we fancied an easy wander just to get out of the house, and the lure of being so close to home, and Busselton so we could head to The Shelter Brewery on the foreshore afterwards, pulled us this way:
I went through my post from last spring to see what we found back then, and to avoid repeating myself. Also to see if I still felt like I had correctly identified the orchid finds from back then. I don’t think I did too bad last time, but there is one I reckon I got wrong that I will get to later. The first one we spotted was the most common here, obviously a spider orchid but which one. I flipped and flopped between a couple of species before deciding I had got it right last time. The petals and sepals are narrower and more clubbed than the Carousal Spider, which I thought it may have been:
In addition to the above Karri Spider there were a few Forest Mantis out. While we saw heaps of Mantis Orchids down at the Stirling Ranges earlier this week, they were the Fringed Mantis that has a greener labellum that is slightly less pointy towards the end. The Fringed Mantis also has a larger flower that is generally less brightly coloured than this species. In addition the Forest Mantis tends to holds the lateral sepals closer together in a way that it looks like it is praying just like a mantis. I wonder if anyone will now go to my previous post to check if I’m right:
The next find was a small patch of Donkey Orchids, and while I seem to have included images of these in many of my recent posts these are yet again a different species. The bright mauve to purple labellum and labellum wings that graduate to a bright yellow in the middle and mauve ting along the broad ear like petals looked lovely when the sun hit them. This Purple Pansy Donkey has a smaller flower in size and also overall plant height and also has brighter colours than the Giant Donkey Orchid we saw in the Stirling Ranges. I mention that as the Giant also had purple colouring, so from a simple image with no indication of scale they could be confused:
Breaking away from orchids for a while there were a few other flowers that really stood out. Similar to the pink peas that we saw on our walk up Mount Magog, which I believe were the Painted Lady Legume, we today saw large purple peas. Don’t ask me why but because they are called the Common Hovea I decided not to include an image. Instead here is the Brilliant Yellow Flag, which was the flower that stood out the most due to its colour but also its size. It was the biggest flower we saw at up to five centimetres across:
The above flower has a close cousin that we have seen more frequently called the Purple Flag, and when we first saw it I felt it looked out of place and may have been a weed. They are however native and indeed endemic to Western Australia. A perennial herbaceous plant from the iridaceae family and they certainly seem different to most that we have come across. The name iridaceae comes from irises that means rainbow, which makes sense due to the many brightly coloured variety. Part way round the walk is a creek and we sat here and watched a Nankeen Night Heron, that Lisa spotted fly from the water’s edge up into the trees. Too high and too far away to capture an image, so all you get is this picture:
The area was littered with tree guards, some upright and still pegged in the position they were placed to provide protection for a seedling. But many had been dislodged and were scattered about, as if someone had been littering. This area had a lot of bare ground with no under storey, allowing pasture grasses and weeds to take hold. There had been a concerted effort to revegetated the area with natives, and the number of tree guards were testament to that. Granted it would be a hugely difficult task without very persistent and labour intensive weed control. This didn’t seem to have been happening enough and that, along with foraging kangaroos and rabbits, had resulted in what seemed to be a poor success rate in plants surviving:
As we continued our walk we soon left the area that was sadly still being hijacked by the agricultural plants, that were been so successfully used on all four sides of this little nature reserve. Back in the native habitat we spotted a couple of Common Mignonette Orchids, above. When looking for orchids many people might just walk by these plants, with flowers literally only millimetres high. Indeed Lisa struggled a little with the variety of shapes and sizes of the orchids we were finding. As well as those shown in this post there were also Rattle Beaks, Purple Enamels and Cowslips but you will have to look at the post from last spring, linked above:
The other non-orchid that will get a mention is the Kangaroo Paw. Another plant endemic to Western Australia of which there are eleven species, this one being the green. The most revered is the red and green, so much so it was made the state floral emblem in 1960. While many people have them in their gardens native Kangaroo Paws are very hard to cultivate and have evolved to specific soils and conditions. For this reason hybrids have been specially breed for the purpose of gardens. I can’t recall seeing any other than the green, so will have to keep an eye out for them next time:
Lisa was getting pretty good at spotting the orchids as we went along, and on occasion out came her phone to try to identify them. Ironically, this is something I mentioned in my last post as a path I didn’t want to go down. This is the plant that started it and she wasn’t able to identify it. I’m not surprised at that for a couple of reasons. Firstly, and I only noticed this as I looked at the images back home, the clubs of the petals and sepals and also the apex of the labellum have been removed. If it had been an animal I’m sure they would have eaten the whole plant, so I find this very strange and as such possibly a deliberate act:
Secondly it is an unusually variant called a Lutea form, which means yellowish in colour or having parts or marks that are yellowish. The next difficult question of course is which spider orchid is this a Lutea form of. I feel confident in saying that we had observed both the Karri and King Spider Orchids, the former shown earlier and the latter shown below. So my guess is that this was a Lutea (yellow) form King Spider, and by all accounts it seems that these variants are quite unusual to find. It is just a shame that something or more likely someone had to deface it. There is one last image after this one and again it may be an unusual find, this one however has had me sitting on the fence and still does:
What struck me about this plant, and this one only, was that the plant was close to a meter high. In addition the petals were being held so strikingly upright and rigid and the labellum underside was green and not the white, both aspects unlike the King specimen above. I’m not sure if these observations are enough for me to be able to say this is a Carbunup King Spider, which is one of the tallest spider orchids with the largest flower. Last spring I identified one of my finds as a Carbunup King Spider, but now I’m sure it was a King Spider and you’ll have to go to my previous post to check it out yourself. If today’s find is a Carbunup King Spider I’m pretty happy as these are declared as Rare Flora under the Western Australian Wildlife Conservation Act 1950 and Critically Endangered under the Environment Protection and Biodiversity Conservation Act 1999. Either way shortly after this find it was then time for a well-deserved feed at the Shelter:
Last year Lisa and I camped out at the Stirling Ranges for our anniversary at the end of October. It was a hot few days and while we did get a bit of rain to cool things off briefly, in truth it was pretty uncomfortable. But, as is always the case when we crash at the Mount Trio Bush Camp we had a good time. In part because it is a beautiful place but also to catch up with the owners, John and Margot who we have now known for eleven years. This year we went for Lisa’s birthday, just under four weeks earlier than last year:
Two things struck us, it was busy. Much busier than we have ever known it, and there were portable loos scattered round the area to help with the additional load. Eleven years back, when we first came here it was during the spring school holiday and yet we had several nights with the place all to ourselves. This year they have had up to 350 people camping each night. It was a huge change, but not unsurprising with most Western Australians being unable to go on their usual interstate or overseas trips. And as such seeking out alternative local adventures:
The second thing was the water, we have seen water trickle down the creek line before. But this year it has properly flowed for extended periods, and the last time John could recall this happening was in 2006. It was also much cooler than last year, which suited us fine. We had three nights away which meant two days to chill out and explore. No surprises in that Lisa did more of the chilling out and I did more of the exploring, and being spring you can probably guess what I was looking for:
Camping out we tend to hit the sack early, and then I’m up and about at first light. The dawn chorus was wonderful with a mixture of so many birds. I could only recognise the obvious and bigger birds, such as the magpie, cockatoos, ringnecks, wattlebirds and crows. There was also the quieter background song from a myriad of small birds that probably included willy wagtails, fantails, robins, wrens, etc. There is a great nature trail in the bush camp, but also plenty of bushland to explore both in the camp and in the national park that sits right on the edge of the camp:
So each morning it was a similar routine, I’d get up and go for an hour to an hour and half wander. Come back and make a cuppa for both of us and then go for another hour plus wander. When I got back Lisa and I would head to the camp kitchen for a lazy breakfast. The good thing about the routine being that the morning rush in the camp kitchen would have died down by then, and generally the people left lingering about were after a quiet morning. After that we would then get ready to head out for a wander together:
On the first full day we decided to climb Mount Magog, which is the only publicly advertised peak for hiking up that we have never been to. It was also one of the lesser frequented ones, and there was only one car parked up when we arrived. The track crossed a small creek and then took a steady and increasingly steepening track, which takes a reasonably direct route for four kilometres. Mount Magog is supposed to have a steep finish that requires scrambling, which is in part why we hadn’t attempted it before:
In the areas that had been so decimated in the 2020 fires, life was definitely coming back and I’ll come back to that later. Some areas had burned way too hot and much of the seedbank in the soil was destroyed, one area we visited on the second day was like this and the regrowth was in complete contrast to the more balanced ecology we were seeing here. The fires hadn’t extended to this part of the park, and as such the bush was amazingly diverse and the landscape was littered with flowers:
The track switched from sandy to rocky areas and then back again, and with the changing soils the vegetation also switched. As can be see above and below we were spotting small sundews through to amazing peas. The ones below were the most stunning, each flower was about two centimetres high and even in the semi-cloudy conditions the pink shone so brightly. Then of course there were the orchids to spot, I’ve already included images of four species I found but I will refrain from mentioning all of them:
One reason for not mentioning all of them is that there were too many. During the trip I found thirty species and/or hybrids species, and possibly more as some of them were just too hard to really know if they were different. I’ll mention a couple of the more special finds but that will come later. In the image below the track looks like it is heading to Mount Talyuberlup, a place that we have both hiked up before and I have also climbed at. But the track slowly drifts leftward to the peak just hidden behind the shrub:
Mount Magog and Talyuberlup are connected by a ridge and I was really tempted to suggest we hike the ridge, but knew that it would probably be a bit too much for Lisa. However, one day I’ll be keen to extend the hike to take in both peaks. As the track steepened up, our heads looked down and we did not take in so much of the scenery round us. This did however make me notice small holes along the track. At first I thought they were holes made from hiking poles, but on closer inspection these were raised holes:
The raised portion was strengthened by securely placed twigs, and I can only guess that these are to prevent the hole from being flooded. I never saw anything go in or come out of these burrows so can’t tell you what creature was housed within. While it was a steep track there were no steps, a couple of the hikes in the Stirling Ranges have steps that are way too high and we are not that keen on them. We were also pleasantly surprised to find that the final stretch only had a couple of sections to scramble up. This was the worse section but Lisa was determined and managed it with relative ease:
It was a cloudy and windy day to be on top of a peak, but we found a bit of respite from the wind and even weathered a shower that came over. It made us wonder what it might be like going back down; the rocky scramble sections would be pretty dicey in the wet. Fortunately the rain passed over and the wind was such that the rock would soon dry, plus that band was followed by mostly clear skies. It then felt good to lie back on a rock armchair in the sun, munching on some snacks. Soon my eyes started to drift and I found a whole bunch of orchids in the undergrowth:
The group ahead of us were still on top enjoying just being out there, a man and his two sons, but there was plenty of room up there plus just like us they were just quietly enjoying the place. Someone else also turned up but had to head off after a quick photo. His girlfriend hadn’t managed the rock steps, so was waiting a bit below the top. The group of three said a quick scramble across the ridge to the next peak, not Talyuberlup but the second peak of Magog was worth it. So I left Lisa to have a quick scramble and sure enough they were right:
The sheer face of the main peak was stunning to see, even better with the backdrop of Talyuberlup. When I got back the third group was there in full, the woman had managed to conjure up the courage to get up the rocky steps to enjoy the views. Before Lisa and I headed off we munched on a few more snacks and watched the fearless lizards come out to join us sunbathing. They may be also realise that were humans are tasty morsels might be dropped, and they got really close to us looking about and only scampering away if we moved suddenly:
We left the peak in reverse order, and as such the first group had the peak to themselves once more. Going downhill is so much harder on your knees and Lisa started to feel hers when we got to the steep descent. But there was no rush and we took a slow and steady pace. This allowed me to look about a bit more on this section than I had as we came up; when our heads were just watching the track. I really liked this banksia, quite literally growing out of the middle of a big solid boulder and I’m honestly not sure where it’s roots went:
The track started to become less steep and soon we were on the almost level path back. I took a heap of images of the more visually stunning flowers, and like the orchids too many to include. With every intention of identifying all the flowers and writing about some of them, I decided against that after having to spend hours trying to work out the thirty orchid species. So I will leave the flower identification for another time. The next orchid is one that I really wanted to mention, which is an albino Zebra orchid. I have no idea how rare it is to find them but I was very chuffed to spot it:
The drive back to camp took us through the middle of the ranges. We stopped at the central lookout carpark only to find a short walk up a peak allowing you to take in the view both east and west of the peaks stretching out. Another walk that we had not been on before, and didn’t even know existed. It was strange to think just how many people were staying at the campsite yet how few we saw out. I feel that most stay in the eastern side and many only come here to head up Bluff Knoll, the highest peak and the one with the most high steps, which was good for us today:
Back at the camp the numbers had thinned out and what we noticed that many of the noisier groups had moved on. Not to say they were rowdy, but some people seem to just be naturally louder and are probably not even aware of it. We had timed our outing today well and once we were settled in the camp kitchen making food and playing a game the rain set in. The fire pits didn’t have anyone round them, which was an unusual sight and one that didn’t last for too long after the rain abated:
The next morning came and with it the morning chorus to tell me it was time to get up. I again started the day with a wander round the nature trail, going the other direction this time. I also remembered to take my glasses this time and that helped me to spot quite a few things I missed the day before. I have to also admit to not strictly sticking to the track. Knowing the area quite well from all our visits here there are a few extra spots I head for that I have had a fair bit of success in finding orchids at:
The ever faithful finds here seem to be the fringed mantis, below, and dragon orchids. These two are present in masses, but are definitely not the only ones to be found here. In my head I had counted up, if I was lucky, 25 species. It wasn’t until I got home and started to look in more detail at the images that I saw the differences come out. Especially with the donkey and spider orchids, with seven and three species from each respectively. It did however get to a point where it was simply getting to hard to distinguish between them:
This may have been due to my orchid guide being for the South West of Western Australia and I probably need to get the guide for the Wheatbelt and South Coast. Also this time I had to get down to the real minutia to try to identify some species. This included going as far as not just looking at the shape and size of the labellum and its fringes, but also the colour and even colour graduations. Then there are the calli, the little protruding parts on the labellum, and looking at their shape and colour, how far they extend and how many rows there are:
Then for some species you need to look at the same level of detail for the petals and sepals, so it is an intensive process. I take lots of images, but without noting the slight variations out in the field it is easy to not take enough images of the different plants found. While I really enjoy finding them and working it all out, I can’t bring myself to start trying to identify them in the field with my guide at hand. As such I do wonder if I am reaching my upper threshold of desire to go much deeper, and then on top of all that there are the hybrids such as this Cowslip Fairy:
Mind you all that said orchids are mostly out in spring. So by the time summer arrives and I get back in the water and start trawling over my marine books, for all the finds when I’m snorkelling, it won’t feel like I’ve got competing interests for my time. While I might seem to spend a lot of time hunting orchids, one of my fondest memories of the nature trail is however the simple daisy. Elseya would love to just sit in amongst them. On this trip I rarely got to see them open up, my morning walks were too early and they were still closed up waiting for the sun:
It was time to bring Lisa that cuppa, and I changed things a bit this time round by making the cuppa before my first walk. The rationale being that our thermos mugs are so effective that the tea is simply too hot to drink if I made it after the walk. This way is had an hour and half to cool just enough to make it a drinkable temperature. Lisa was once again snug as a bug in her sleeping bag, happy as Larry with her kindle reading and dozing as the day woke up round her. So with tea delivered I wandered once more:
In addition to loving hearing and seeing the birds on my early jaunts, and much as they are seen all over, I still get enjoy seeing the roos out and about. Wandering through the bush it is usually the thump, thump sound that tells me to look up and sure enough I’ll see them hopping at what seems to them a leisurely pace away. There are a few about that are more used to people, such as this doe. Her joey however was less convinced and immediately hid behind her and then disappeared into her pouch, as she carried on munching taking no heed of me:
It is a reasonably quick stroll towards the edge of the property, from where you get into the national park. I’ve never really ventured far beyond the boundary line so today was the day. But before I got there I scoured the ground for whatever I might see and it was because of the doe above that I changed direction and stumbled across my second albino orchid. This time it was a dragon, with all the reds and darker greens stripped away it looked a little ghostly. I only came across the two albinos, I heard rumour of a couple of albino mantis but never found them:
Once in the national park the track I was looking for was called Six Chains track. I believe it takes you all the way to Mount Trio, but I wasn’t intending to go that far. Besides it took me a while to find out where it was. The directions I had remembered were vague and once in the bush it all looks the same. I eventually hit the creek, which I didn’t expect, and just followed that until the track came into view allowing me to find heaps of orchids I would not have otherwise seen. The track is actually a firebreak so wide enough to remain clear and obvious:
Due to the heavy rain last week the creek crossing had blown out somewhat, the small culvert had been no match for the flows that had thundered down. As the water had flowed over the top of the crossing it washed out all the sand and resulted in this mess, but luckily the vegetation up and downstream had held the banks firm so I was able to hop over the narrower section. Then I was simply followed the track until I decided I should probably head back, killing another hour and half just enjoying being out:
The firebreak while evident didn’t seem to get lots of traffic and had heaps of flowers growing in the more open ground. The landscape changed with the changing soils, as I wandered and there was heaps to see. It was a lovely peaceful walk with the views of Mount Trio ahead and Mount Hassle and Mount Toolbrunup to the south, so I was never really going to get lost. I occasionally ducked into the bush to the side to have a sticky beak, but never went too far just in case I did lose my bearings. Eventually it felt like it was time to turn back:
Again not rushing I found more and more things to spend time checking out and as I was capturing images of a great orchid just off the track someone walked up behind me. I guessed, and was right in thinking, it was Jarred. I’d only met him once before years back. He takes the orchids tours and spends hours searching for them, I found out later that his sister works at the same place I do and I have had the odd communication with her even though she is based in Perth. It’s a small world. He mentioned he had found an unusually orchid and pointed in a direction saying it was a twenty minute walk that way:
I kept that direction in mind for tomorrow. Then as he headed off to get ready to provide the tour, I strolled for a little longer coming across yet another find. A Prisoner Spider, which is a cross between a Zebra and Joseph Spider Orchid, identified by the longer petals and sepals. The distinct zebra part being the colourful stripy labellum, so very different to the albino version I found. The Joseph Spider, so being called due to the many colours it can display including yellow, white, red and purples and each flower can display them in a myriad of ways:
Lisa was about ready for breakfast when I returned, so it was another reasonably quiet and lazy time down at the camp kitchen. We decided to head further south to the Porongurup’s today, the reason being that the hike would be flatter and that would prevent any chance of aggravating her knees further. However, things went a little pear shaped after breakfast when the rear canopy window shattered. There was the clean-up and a few calls to see if we could get it fixed, which we couldn’t, that chewed up time. By then the rain started to fall:
We still started to drive south an hour plus later after the shattering experience, and in the distance the Porongurup’s were practically hidden from view. The clouds had engulfed them and it was raining steadily, so we decided to turn back and head instead to Mount Toolbrunup where the clouds were more broken and the rain seemed to be light, as shown above. This is the first peak that Elseya walked up, and she choose it because from the campsite she saw it was in the clouds and she wanted to walk in the clouds:
The mind of a seven year old is wonderful, but we were in luck as the clouds stayed until we got to the top on that day and she got to walk in the clouds. It is my favourite hike here, and not only because of that story. The path and terrain is highly variable and interesting and the peak itself it a proper mountain type peak with a pinnacle to stand on. I knew today we wouldn’t get as far as that peak, our aim was to have a stroll and we planned to reach the base of the boulder scree slope where it got steeper:
The path to get to the boulder field seemed longer and steeper than either of us remembered. But with a slow and steady pace we made it. This peak like Mount Trio had been well and truly ravaged by the fires in late 2020, and this is one of the areas where it had burned so hot the seed base in the soils had been destroyed. As such the returning vegetation wasn’t as varied as other places and seemed quite unvaried. The other visually striking, and slightly eerie, aspect was the way the dead trees in the gully we were hiking up, were all bowing towards the peak:
We got back down just as the rain really hit and we headed back to camp for a hot cuppa, snacks and game. The wetter weather brought with it a chill in the air, and sitting in the camp kitchen we got cold so Lisa said she would head to the tent to curl up in her sleeping bag and read. But somehow I managed to convince her to come for a little wander to check out the local flora. I showed her a few of the finds and we also got a wonderful display from a mob of white tailed cockatoos, before she decided it was time to headed back to get warm:
I stayed out and above is one of my finds as I scoured “in that direction for about twenty minutes” in search of the unusual orchid Jarred had found. This spider orchid is not what I was hoping to find but was still pretty cool. It is also one of the spiders I have really struggled to identify, maybe an Enigmatic Spider Orchid but I can’t be sure. There were also heaps of tell-tell basal leaves to indicate more orchids were going to come out at some point. For some leaves the stems were coming up but the flowers were yet to open:
I spent several hours looking round but never found the unusual orchids. While it may be a small world in terms of degrees of separation of us humans, in terms of finding a flower in a patch of bush within “twenty minute walk in that general direction” it feels like a very big world. As the sun got lower in the sky I gave up with my search and headed back. Being so wet this year and just recently the ground was pretty damp in places, and this meant there were lots of fungi out. I saw heaps of really cool ones, but refrained from stopping to check those out as well keeping my focus mainly on flowers:
Our last evening came and the vibe of the camp kitchen changed once more. This time there seemed to be more families, with parents that wanted to have music playing and didn’t seem to care or notice that that their kids ran amuck screaming at the tops of their voices. It wasn’t the most peaceful of evenings so we retired early and left them to it. On my return to the kitchen to make a cuppa in the morning, it was empty and blissfully peaceful. Then for one final morning I headed out for a wander, this time walking along the fire breaks towards Mount Hassle:
This track took in higher and much rockier ground, it was more of a walk than a flower hunt and I soon put some kilometres behind me. I walked past the neighbouring property, which is where Jarred lives and I spotted a roo leaping through the crop of wheat. The reason that seemed strange was that the paddock had a serious roo fence round it. I asked him about it later and he later told me that a couple of roos had got in when the fence was damaged in the fire. When they repaired the fence and they couldn’t get the roos out and so they remained. There is also some bush in the same fenced area so they seem happy enough:
After his property the track turns to head south, and as the image above show heads towards Mount Hassel on the left and Mount Toolbrunup on the right. Way too far to think about going, and also as the track dipped into the valley there was no way to get across. This area was a swamp, the still water providing a crystal clear and flat mirror in which the trees were reflected. It was a lovely sight and a very tranquil place, so I spent quite a bit of time soaking it all up. Wandering round the edge of the water checking out plants:
I eventually got back to camp and Lisa looked more alert than the last two mornings. It was not that she was actually more awake, only that she had finished her book and didn’t have another one to start. So as I handed her the cuppa she hinted that we should head down for breakfast. Seeing we were heading off today an earlier breakfast wasn’t a bad thing. The camp kitchen was still relatively quiet, and as I was making a second cuppa Jarred came over and said he had an hour before the tour so was happy to take me out to see the unusual orchid:
Lisa was fine with me heading off at a drop of a hat, so we went walking some twenty minutes in that general direction. Where we came cross the sight above, and it was not until you looked more closely that ten or so King in his Carriage Orchids could be seen. They were stunning with the flower being approx. one centimetre high and the plant only standing maybe ten centimetres high. On my two wanders out this way I wasn’t far from where they were, but doubt I would have spotted them:
After spending some time being amazed at the king sitting there looking comfortable, we wandered back and had a good chat. Jarred has definitely got the bug and is an orchid fanatic, and I learnt a lot in that short time about the area and orchids for which I was hugely grateful. While I was a sponge taking in all that knowledge, I also knew that I would never get that involved. I’ll stay on the edge of keeping interested and checking things out, as there are too many other things out there that I also enjoy looking for and checking out:
We got back and Lisa too was sitting pretty, a comfy position in the warm morning sun, cup of coffee in one hand and something to ready in the other. After breakfast we clearing up and packed away a dry tent, which is always a massive bonus, and sorted the car. We stopped to say good bye to Margot as we passed their home. She told us there were plans underway for a second camp kitchen, so the place will change even more. I’m not sure how she and John find the energy to keep everything going, it’s a monstrous job but we are certainly glad they do:
On the road home we made one stop at a patch of bush just outside Boyup Brook. I had spotted a heap of flowers that I thought were Donkey Orchids as we had drove down, but they were just a weed that looked like them when you drive past at 110 km/hr. When we stopped we did however found heaps of huge Stark White Spider Orchids, as well as many other interesting stuff. It was certainly a great trip. And despite the Mount Trio Bush Camp getting so popular, we still love the place and will no doubt go back next spring: