After an abstinence of climbing during the long weekend there was need to get back out there, and that opportunity arose on Sunday when Rongy, Steve, Alan and I headed down to the main area of Wilyabrup. The choice of location was based on my one request for some longer routes. Normally Rongy or I would have a game plan and tick list in mind, but today it was a relaxed and low key affair. So much so that we were umming and ahhing about who would take first lead, who would climb with who and what we should climb:

Rongy broke the stalemate and started the first climb of the day on First Climb. Meanwhile Steve was keen to jump on Hope, so he racked up. Now you may be wondering about the next image and its relevance. There is none other than on the last weekend the WA climbing association had a trip down here, and as is usual with gym climbers the place was splattered with chalk. Hold being marked with ticks and one even being indicated by a smiley face, seeing this it is not surprising why some complain about climbers disfiguring rock faces:

Now Steve was physical ready to roll, but mentally he seemed not altogether there. A third of the way up he looked down at me and confessed to just not being in the right frame of mine. So he down climbed and I took the lead, and while he managed to second up he decided that he would not climb any more today. Chemo and other things were clouding his focus and he felt it better not to continue, a shame but at times you have to do the sensible thing. Walking down we found Alan also wondering if he was being sensible as he tackled Twenty Questions:

He certainly had to stop and talk to himself a few times but he never rested on the rope or fell, nor did he even indicate he might back down from the lead. Slow and steady won the race and after he made the crux move he continued to keep his cool on the last exposed section before topping out. It was a great lead considering it is his second lead on trad in years, Lou take note! Rongy and then I followed up checking his gear, which at times he was nervous about, but it was all bomber:

Now to the left of that crack is wait for it… Left Crack. A well protected and challenging climb at the grade, which can be made harder and longer by traversing left. You may recall it from a recent trip here I did with Howsie when I led it. It is a route I often talk up and I’m not sure but it felt like Rongy didn’t believe that I could or have climbed it . So I gave into the pressure and jumped on it one more time. The last time was it was sopping wet and a bit of a horror show, but at least today it was all dry and the friction was great:

I have to confess to having huffed and puffed along the traverse, stepping high and having to use unseen hand jams while making use of the better higher footholds. It’s a pumpy line and steeper than it looks, and I was grateful when I got to the end. Alan took one look and decided that this was not for him so only Rongy followed up. Below on the rocks Steve had collated all his gear, but he was missing. We were not too worried as he wouldn’t have got far and so we moved on for the next line:

After having been up Blubber Boy twice on second it was finally time for Rongy to give it a go himself. Alan was certainly looking on very apprehensively as Rongy took his time fiddling with the gear and doing a bit of yo-yoing trying to figure out the moves. On second with the safety of the rope above you this climb never feels too serious, but on lead it is a whole new ball game. At one point he climbed down to a ledge and had to shake out confessing that on lead the climb felt a lot more pumpy:

It is for good reason that it can feel pumpy, the gear is small in the bottom of the slab, which is also the crux section. RPs are the only choice and you really have to trust them as it is not until higher up the slab that the holds become more positive and gear bigger. This explains the yo-yoing and the possible over gripping that Rongy was now experiencing. He kept going and in his usual style enjoyed and soaked up the experience, as oppose to allowing it to get to his head:

Steve ambled down the path as I was belaying Rongy up the last sections. He was happy pottering about and had been wandering about up top, and was now just about to head down to the boulders along the water’s edge. His best mate Mark, from the UK, had really liked this area when he had come out to visit. He had sadly and only recently passed unexpectedly and Steve was using his time today to collect some footage to use for the eulogy. So as he wandered down to the boulders we continued to focus on Rongy:

Alan was feeling very unsure about this one, but both Rongy and I had confidence that he could give it a red hot go. Looking particularly nervous and clunky at the start he soon found a rhythm and managed to pull off the crux moves with relative ease. There was one moment when he asked Rongy to take and that he would rest, to which I hollered encouragement to make the next move where the holds really did improve. He did as told and was not surprisingly, and deservedly so, very chuffed to have climbed it clean:

We could see Steve lurking between the boulders and decided that one more climb was on the cards. My lead, as Alan put his foot down and said he was not leading anything after that last climb. So to slow the pace down and make the most of the last climb we aimed for Verbosity. It is one we have all three led before so there were no nasty surprises. However, the main reason for picking this line was that it is the longest route here. It was as always great fun and I had an awesome view from the top:

Alan came up second tied in part way along the rope, and while we had a 60m rope this route is so long that Rongy had to start climbing before Alan had topped out. You can just make out Rongy with his white helmet getting to the top of the crux corner that guards the more relaxed upper wall of this route. With that climb under our belt we went back down and packed up, Steve was ahead of us having got ahead start as he was starting to feel the heat. It was a warm hike out and we finally found the missing man under the shelter of the trees by the car:










































































































































