The timing was perfect. Allowing me to pull over onto the verge and watch the sunrise, just before turning onto Wilyabrup Road. This meant it would not be a first light start on rock. Adrian had already hinted at being happy with a cruisy day, having been climbing at Bobs Hollow yesterday. No prior plans were set but on arrival and as we talked about what he may be keen for, grades of 20 were being mentioned and possibly 21. Um, maybe it would not be quite as cruisy as I had thought. I guess the term cruisy is after all a relative term:
Wandering down there were quite a few plants in bloom. Despite being past their best, the mass of Cockies Tongue (Templetonia retusa) was however still very colourful and pretty. This only reinforced my thoughts that popping in at either the Carbunup or Ambergate Reserve on the way home, to check out what orchids may be on show, may be a good idea. Despite looking pretty hard over the years, most of the orchids I have seen at Wilyabrup have been the usual suspects. So far this season it hasn’t been any different, and that continued today:
No matter, as we were here to climb. I’m normally chomping at the bit, egging people on to rack up and tie in. Today that wasn’t the case, and it is fair to say we eased into things at a very gentle pace. The lines that met the mid-grade level that had been alluded to earlier could wait, it was time for a warm up. Adrian was keen and, in my more mellow than usual state of mind, I was happy for him to get on the sharp end. I could hear him chatting to someone as I climbed, taking my time to look for our usual scaly friend:
Barely visible a Western Carpet Python (Morelia imbricata) was buried deep behind the flake. Maybe it would come out as the day warmed up. For now I left it alone and climbed on. Finding Adrian chatting with the first of what was to be many other climbers heading to the cliffs today. It seems there may be a surge of people keen to get out since a new boulder wall has opened up in Margaret River. Hopefully it won’t get too busy. Mind you if it does, we have plenty of other options along the coastline that are lesser known and frequented:
We chatted atop for a while. Allowing us to spy a pod of dolphins and one, or was it two, whales cruise past. It really is a top spot to hang out, and in my slower mood today I enjoyed taking it all in at a reduced pace. Adrian had hinted something around 16 would have been be a good warm up but I had struggled to recall any 16s, despite there being seven at the main crags. Then as we came back down I suggested the best trad route here with bucketful’s of exposure. Misleading him by one grade as it get 17, my mind really was drifting today:
Sat on top Adrian was beaming after a stellar lead on a route that gives many a climber the heebie-jeebies. Then Sarah, with a friend, turned up for a pit stop before going to Quinninup Falls. Hoping to find a reptile or two and as they headed off herping, I pointed out a possible new line I was considering to Adrian. It didn’t look anything too hard, but the gear may be a bit spaced. He suggested there was only one way to check it out but walking down it was my turn for a pit stop, to check out a few Murdoch Snail Orchids (Pterostylis ectypha):
At the base I tied in and racked up for the first time. Hoping my mind would be focused enough to bag the line. It is strange that when you jump on lead the mind sharpens up. Then for me this feeling is enhanced further when on a line that it highly likely a new route, so you have no idea what it may have install. I had read it right, nothing too hard although Adrian and I were at odds about the grade. And also right about the sparse gear especially in the mid-section. However, as I put the first ascent up my mind was crystal clear with no fogginess:
As I topped out Sarah and her friend waved goodbye, they had no luck on the scaly friend finding front and were now heading to the falls. Adrian followed up and confessed the runout would have put him on edge. He was sporting a dribble of blood from his forehead, the result of the no.4 cam hitting him when he took it out. It also happened to be the first time this piece of shiny gear had been placed. Which is why I decided on The Christening (14R, 25m), and it became doubly apt as it was as if Adrian’s no.4 cam had anointed him:
The question now of course is whether it is a sandbag route or not? I’ll send someone up it soon enough to see what they think. What with a bit of chitchat with the various parties, Adrian’s snack time between climbs, and other reasons the day was moving faster than we were climbing. We were both however of a view that we would be happy with just one more route, a line that Adrian had tried previously and backed off. This time it really was a 16, according to the guide, and this time there was no hesitation as he cruised his way up:
As we wandered down my phone started pinging. Sarah was sending me images of the orchids she had seen, asking what they were. Along with Mario, Rongy, and others at work I’m building up a good group of people giving me hints of where to head for my next orchid hunt. Sarah’s finds helped me make my mind up for the return journey. Deviating off the road home to walk the track leading to Quinninup Falls. Where I was taken by the above Pink Petticoats (Utricularia multifida) and rewarded with loads of Exotic Spider Orchids (Caladenia nivalis):
The Christening 25m 14R
Tackle the face left of where A Pocket Full of Nothing starts, for best value avoid the crack. Head for the steep flared corner that offers no gear, keep right of the arête all the way up.
Seewraj, Goldberg 21/09/25
Sandbagged 