With Nadia away with friends, we had to wait till a wee bit later in the morning before we could hit the road for another Friday rock session. It meant the chance of a collision with the animals was far reduced. Although the roads were significantly busier with the less fortunate souls that still had to go to work today. All these factors had to be taken account of, if Howsie was to get back in time for the school pick up. Driving down we got organised. Agreeing the climbs on the hit list, and the times for various steps to make sure we returned on time:
While I enjoy the walk back down after a climb, due to the circumstances I brought a rap line. Maximising our time going up the rock, by speeding up our descents. With strategically selected routes and the rap line placed in the middle of the cluster, we were set to go. For those wondering, yes I do still need to be careful. To lessen the risk of me doing something silly, I told Howsie he was on point for the whole session. A rope above me as I climbed would allow me to be more relaxed, and be less likely to make sudden movements out of desperation:
There was no complaint from the other side. In addition, and before, we had started the trip down Howsie had hinted at moderating the grades to doubly make sure I was being sensible. There was however one route here that Howsie has previously bottled on. Never having managed a completed lead on it. Admittedly there is at least one pretty spicy moment on it. Other parts feel airy and runout even though they are not. This makes it as much of a mental battle as a physical one, and this set the scene for the lines we picked for the day:
Not super high in difficulty, but each climb having a bit of a reputation for being a mental sandbag at their grade. And not surprisingly they are all fully trad, there would be no bolt clipping today. After Adrian’s battle on the route below not that long back, this was one I suggested as fitting the bill. Howsie having no memory of ever leading it trusted my thoughts. It took one test run to get over the crux bulge. Coming back to the stance below to compose himself before going for it. Made more impressive, due to the rough swell today:
We were not racing to pack the lines in, just aiming to keep a steady pace. It was up to Howsie’s head to decide the rate he would take on, and style he would ascend, each route. Three lines in and he was starting to feel his arms, the flash pump on the first route didn’t help. The super long runout on the second and greasiness on the third had then made him grip that bit harder. None of this helped when on the fourth climb. At the crux where you have to leave your gear behind, he started to lose the mental battle. But not completely:
Down climbing the sequence back to the ledge to shake out, and refocus. I’m reading a book, which is a rare occurrence, called ‘Ron Fawcett – Rock Athlete: The story of a climbing legend’. As an autobiography it might sound like ole Ron is blowing his own trumpet. However, he was an exceptional climber and pioneered rock climbing into a new era with amazing first ascents. Lines many thought would need to wait for several generation to come. Climbed without the modern sticky rubber shoes or protection. They are still a significant undertaking today:
Why is any of this relevant you may ask. Well, in the 70s when Ron was at the forefront of British rock climbing and up there with the world’s best climbers, I have just been reading about what was called the yoyo technique. Frowned upon by the previous generation of climbers, but accepted by the modern day elite to make ascents that bit safer. Climbing as high as you dared placing gear, and then coming back down. Then repeating this with the rope already above you at the high point reached. With the aim to get that bit higher:
I guess if this technique was good enough for Ron, then its good enough for Howsie. After resting up he stormed up the line. Then despite his nerves tingling, bagging the above route in one push. The one he’s previously backed off and never completed. The last line had to be the obvious one to climb out on with packs. Having an added bonus of a baby Carpet Python buried deep in the flake on high. Not purposely watching the clock, we somehow packed up, got back to the car, and arrived at Capel pretty well bang on our pre-planned timeline:
Sandbagged 