After walking in the dark until seven thirty or later in England last week, it felt a little strange for the sun to be on its way up at five as I waited for Josh in Capel. I even wondered whether we should have met an hour earlier to maximise our time on rock during the cooler part of the day. Mind you if I was being honest and while I may have been back for close to a week, my body clock wasn’t really quite ready for that. With summer nudging it’s way in, I can foresee that earlier starts will be on the way soon:
It’s been a three week absence from rock. Therefore, I was more than happy for a relaxed reintroduction at Willyabrup on a few lower grade classics. This suited Josh, and also Harry. Someone Josh has been trying to get out for some time. Yet another person who used to climb, and after a decade long break was keen to get back into it. This meant his harness was pretty old, and he was keen for me to check it out. I’m probably the worst person to ask, having gear of my own much older. Giving it a once over it looked in better nick than mine:
Two cars were already in the carpark, again I wondered was this too late a start. Luckily no one was on the cliffs. A good thing as the better quality lower grade lines can get busy on such fine mornings. Josh picked the first line. Maybe having been scarred from when he had previously led the route I had to suggested warm up on. He had forgotten the climb he chose today was four grades harder, so it was a little mean on Harry. For once I can say it wasn’t me doing the sandbagging. But I can understand why Josh felt this one may be better:
His memory had been distorted by the intense feeling he experienced when on lead. Watching Harry climb I could hear Josh mention that he had an advantage with his extra-long reach. But reach only works when you also use technique. There was only one time Harry made this mistake. It was impressive to see how quickly he tuned his head into needing to trust his feet, take his time, and work the moves. On our second route Josh admitted, with the safety of the rope above him, that this climb was much easier. But no less enjoyable:
Josh will also admit his technique can be a bit up and down. Today he also climbed well, even hinting he may be keen for a lead today. That was until the third route, on which he focused on the wrong holds. Wearing himself down with each attempt to reach them, and that was for the moves near the base of the climb. By the time he finally made the clean ascent, his arms were weary and head was no longer in the mode to be on the sharp end. Wandering back down, it was then my turn to focus on the wrong thing. Texting good morning to Lisa:
While doing so I narrowly missed stepping on a scaly friend on the path. It slithered into a five meter wide patch of scrub, so I careful looked about. As luck would have it out it popped out on the other side onto the rocks. A Dugite (Pseudonaja affinis subsp. affinis) can grow up to two meters, but generally only reach one and half. This one was a full grown adult and could transfer highly toxic venom in its bite. Accounting for approx. 70% of snake bites reported to Perth Hospital, needless to say I kept my distance and diligently observed its behaviour:
Watching it for maybe too long, resulting in Josh feeling he needed to keep an eye on me. Just in case and from a safe distance,. He had to do the same again for the fourth climb. An old style corner / chimney line. Being an off-width, the gear was limited. He belayed below, but because of the runout and if I had slipped it wouldn’t have helped me. With the lack of gear I substituted the feeling of safety gear provides by wedging myself in the chimney. Squeezing my way up, several bit of gear fell from my harness as one of the gear loops broke:
Um maybe I should have got Harry to check my harness. Looking at the other gear loops, I feel it is time for me to retire it before they too fail sending more gear flying. During our ascent another pair of climbers turned up. Curious, I popped my head over the top and saw none other the Peter. Leaving it a little late to start, but enjoying the shade while he could. We moved over to one more route that no longer had shade. The obvious low grade classic, to see if I would be lucky and see the non-venomous scaly friend I usually see here:
It was not to be. No matter how hard I looked there were no pythons to be seen on the flake. Harry had to work hard to get this one, stating after he topped out that he was done. Josh had managed to find his mojo again, cruising the route but equally happy to call it. The sun would soon bathe the entire crag and none of us were keen to endure that. I hadn’t climbed out with my pack as I normally would on this line, so sorted left all the gear up top to save carrying back up. Meanwhile Josh went for his customary dip in the ocean, before we walked out:
Sandbagged 