Domestic duties can at time get in the way of getting out into nature, but today it was quite the opposite. It’s been a reasonably busy and long couple of weeks at work, in part as there was a need to wrap things up today. Watching the extra hours build up each day, and as I work to live, I decided to grab a few back this morning before I hit the computer again. Putting the word out, Rob was keen for a quick morning session at Welly Dam. And while it may seem that I have been there a bit of late I had a need to get back:
Before I got onto my routes, which were a bit harder than what Rob wanted to lead, I wanted to allow him to have a good crack at his chosen routes on lead. So we started with three leads for Rob, and he really wasn’t sure how he’d go. Suggesting that of late he has allowed his brain take control, resulting in fear creeping in. So as he led his three routes I talked him through finding good stances, getting comfortable even when the rope is below you, and most importantly remembering to breathe:
To his surprise he bagged three clean leads and in great style, he really was not expecting that. He was also not expecting me to make him top out on one climb, just because the moves are fun, before encouraging him to then down climb back to the anchors. His head took control and filled him with fear, but with gentle persuasion I got him to give it a go and again he surprised himself to find that it was actually not that bad. Down climbing in my view is the best way to build confidence in your ability, so Rob expect to do a bit more next time:
Then it was my turn and as you may notice in the above image I had a bit of equipment hanging off my harness that I would not normally carry. Mario had been here last weekend and climbed two of the new routes, which he thought were good fun. But… he did pick up on the fact that I (and Howsie) had not cleaned up after ourselves. So today it was redemption time, and I gave the rock a good brush to remove the dust created from drilling the bolt holes. It was also an excuse to jump back on the lines to see how they felt on lead second time round:
Storm in a Teacup was excellent, and I found another way to unlock the crux section. I was pretty at ease and brushed as I climbed. Then Rob followed up, with a rope above him this time, and was stoked to get up it clean. Next was Building Bridges, which proved to be a bit trickier to brush as I climbed, but I managed it and even found a better way to climb the bit that had on previous occasions when working and then leading the climb given me a bit of grief. This route being a grade Rob had not climbed before was a bit more of a challenge:
While it puffed him out and he had to take a few rests, he managed to unlock all the moves. It was a great effort! One that left him very happy but a bit weary for anything else. I had one last line to clean, as in brush down, so started up that. Brushing round the second bolt, on lead, Peanut Brittle lived up to its name and a hold came off, sending me flying. Coming back to the ground I decided I would lead it dirty, before rapping back down to clean it. So Mario my housework is done, if you care to inspect it for quality control purposes:
Sandbagged 