At twenty six degrees we were not intending to feel like we were getting cooked. Maybe that was what led Josh to try his luck and suggest a 5:45 meeting time in Capel, by which time the sun had well and truly risen into the sky. As it was I didn’t object to the time, and Rob indicated he was OK with it too. So there were no excuses for feeling tired before we began, and added to that we aimed to find a place that had a bunch of routes to suit both Josh and Rob. While they are not novices, Beginners Wall at Wilyabrup was our destination:
We walked in past the mighty northern blocks, definitely not the place to head when you are building your confidence in leading. Down a rubbly slope on which you can at times feel your feet slip forward in an unsettling way, as the rocks roll underneath. Then meandering through the sharp limestone features standing proud above the cliffs, like a castle or watchtower of some dark lord. Kelly had joined us today, but as I am becoming to expect she donned her running shoes and headed off shortly after we had arrived:
Her journey was to take her south along the Cape to Cape track, aiming to get some 20km of running in. That sounds way more impressive than us scaling the short 10m walls at this scrappy coastal location. A wall that looked to be dwarfed by the main cliffs of Wilyabrup to the south. Scrappy is a word Rob use to describe the cliffs of the Organ Pipes and Driftwood Bay, which lie between where we were and the main cliffs. It is a good word to use for those and this location, but it doesn’t mean the climbing isn’t fun:
And it also belies the great situation we found ourselves in, with the 3m swell resulting in us looking over our shoulders every so often to see what might be heading our way. I was happy to allow the boys go lead for lead, so they could rack up a few ascents on routes they felt looked good and appealing. To start with there was no looking at the guidebook, it was a case of picking the lines that drew their attention. This resulted in allowing them to warm to this place, which despite its short nature is very well featured with ample protection:
Having felt comfortable on their initial leads, and finding plenty of solid gear Rob decided to jump on an interesting looking grade 14. While there was one moment he stopped to consider what next, it really didn’t worry him too much. Although he did think it was somewhat over graded, and I made a suggestion that he should have picked up on. As I felt the original climb didn’t go up the relatively easy flake, but a flared crack to the right. One I have tried before and backed off due to lack of gear:
This was relevant, as after Josh notched up another enjoyable and relaxed lead and having had a boost by the above ascent Rob jumped on a second grade 14. For this one the line was obvious and inescapable, and this time it felt considerably harder. He went for it, but not before placing some solid gear, and promptly slipped. This was his first lead fall on trad, which surprised me a little as he has over the years done a fair bit of trad climbing. At least this time I couldn’t be blamed for sandbagging him, as I didn’t establish or grade the route:
After a couple of attempts he came down and offered me the lead, and I have to confess for a grade 14 it is pretty spicy. And he was very happy with the decision to allow me to finish it off. They were both a little weary after that climb, but Rob was still keen for another lead. Sensibly dropping the difficulty, but he still left tired on the steep start. And was probably made a little nervous by the rising tide. The water at times lapped just a few feet from Josh, and also filled the above pool to release the crab’s carcass from its salty tomb:
Kellie returned from her 20km run as we racked up nearly 60m of climbing, not that it is a competition. Still I felt like we could jump on another route, this time it was clear that I would be leading and it might feel a little spicy. Seeing the climb is called Spicy. Being one of my creations, if Rob had led it he may have been justified in saying I sandbagged him. While he forced his way up the line, his body really didn’t want to pay attention anymore despite his mind understanding what he had to do. It was clear that Josh was now cooked:
But before we wrapped up, I knew that Rob had really liked the look of a short steep face. So I suggested that should be our final climb, and he seemed keen. Kellie watched on thinking I was a little mad, as I climbed the route. Other than one piece of gear it is effectively a solo, but I knew this so it didn’t faze me. Then it was Rob’s turn. Whether it was weariness from all the climbing and leading, nerves of watching me solo it, or that he felt it was yet another sandbag his goose was also now well and truly cooked:
Sandbagged 