My usual radio station while driving is Triple M. Probably, as my daughter would say, because it plays old stuff. Mixing up tunes from the 60s through to the 90s. Although they also throw in what they consider the better tracks from the more modern era of music, i.e. since the start of the second millennium. As such, and is often the case with these sort of stations, it is relegated to amplitude modulation airwaves commonly referred to as AM. Amplitude modulation was first used for radio in Australia in 1923 whereas frequency modulation (FM), which the more “popular” stations use, wasn’t available until 1980 (if you exclude the initial experimental period):
The problem with amplitude modulation is the radio waves used are more prone to effects from static, which can come from a variety of sources. And today driving out the songs were on occasion interrupted by that familiar crackling sound, indicating electrical interference in the atmosphere. I didn’t notice any sudden flashes above, indicating lightening, but drops of water were hitting the windscreen in line with the forecasted high probability of rain today. I knew it was a risk not heading out with Howsie and Josh for a before work climb on yesterday, but it was a calculated risk:
I do not just use the standard forecasting apps, but also the interactive forecast maps. These show how the pressure systems are expected to shift across the state in three hourly time steps, providing a much better idea of what might or might not be. All indications were we would get rain, but it would likely initially come from the north and not hit the area I was going to until mid-morning. Sure enough darker clouds loomed in that direction, while Wilyabrup and the surrounding area was rain free and dry. Plus the wind was light meaning that the clouds would not be rolling in to quick. In fact the conditions were perfect to be out for a climb:
Knowing it would rain at some point, I was up and out of the house by 5am. Always intending for it to be a short sharp session going solo, as once again as no one was available to join. And not surprisingly I didn’t see another sole today. Not even someone braving the forecast for a walk. The session was all planned out and I had picked the areas and climbs based on ease of setups; only needing to use two anchor systems to allow me to hit five lines. The first four were on the well-rehearsed Innerspace Wall. Using an adjustable double figure of eight, the adjustments required to the system to make sure both anchors were tensioned for each line was quick and efficient:
This did not however allow me much rest time, and after the rapid fire eight laps in just over an hour my forearms were getting pumped. While I alluded to timeliness being important due to the high probability of rain falling, there was also another reason. Howsie and I are considering a trip next spring for which we will need to be fit as fiddles. A place with big approaches, long routes, and adventurous descents made all the more challenging as neither of us have been there before. As such we will need to be hiking and climbing fit, to allow us to move efficiently and safely and avoid being benighted on the cliffs. This may seem a long way off still, but I had this in mind today as I packed in the meterage and moving at a quick pace:
The second anchor set up for the last line, was on a much taller part of the crag for a route that rarely gets any ascents. Craig led this and I followed up way back in 2006, and since then I have not been on it. I checked The Crag and the only recorded ascents are from 6 and then 3 years back, with comments of “hard and committing”. It was a lot of faffing about, swinging about and prusiking, to get some gear in the route so the rope would follow the line, as the bottom half is completely overhanging. But it was worth the effort and it was awesome, big corners and lots of exposure. And my rationale for jumping on it after all these years also has something to do with next year, as this grade 23 will be on Howsie’s tick list for 2023… and I can’t wait to watch him have a crack at it:
Sandbagged 