Heading out with Mario is always good, but this time I did wonder if I would have the stamina to keep up. While I have been out the last few weekends, since my isolation period ended, on both trips we’ve jumped on lower grade routes. Not that this has in anyway diminished our enjoyment of getting out or climbing, but today two things had me pondering how I’d go. Firstly there really isn’t much easy stuff at our chosen location of the Northern Blocks at Wilyabrup. And secondly I knew what Mario had his eye on:
He was interested to give a couple of Kym classics, which rarely get any attention, a crack. But before that it was time to warm up, for which Mario decided on another route he hadn’t been on before called Graciousness. Another line Kym had developed way back in 2015, but one for which he had kindly offered the first ascent to Wiggins. The reason this was a good line to start on, was it was the same grade as two of the routes I had in mind today. I too had come with a game plan:
Despite having been climbing in this area for over sixteen years it is a little surprising that there are climbs, at a grade I’m happy to attempt, which I have still not climbed. The reasons are varied, but for the two I had in mind today this was probably because they shared starts with other more recently established and well-trodden climbs. Also the route descriptions of these two older lines indicated they may be sparse on protection, and you have to be in the right headspace to take on climbs like that:
My first lead was Block and Tackle, and for those familiar with the area, it takes on the first two thirds of Corpus Delecti before traversing rightwards across the entire crag. This line was climbed in 78 and it took a further four years before anyone considered the direct finish of the way more popular Corpus Delecti. While the route was fun, I’m not convinced I’d lead it again, with the direct finish of the more recent route being much better. In climbing this line I did however get to see the above very well camouflaged moth tucked up against the rock, as I set up my belay anchors:
Then it was time for Mario to head back to where we started this morning. In 2015 Kym was on fire and also established Ain’t No Slouch and Naming Rights, with Craig and I hot on his heels and all three of us managing the routes. I hadn’t touched either line again until I followed Howsie up Ain’t No Slouch, a couple of years back and we both found it really tough (https://sandbagged.blog/2020/05/09/aint-no-slouch/). Today however I was quietly confident Mario would get up the route, so much so that I set the camera to take a video of the action:
Sadly however the pumpy traverse to the bottomless chimney proved too much, not because it was a slopey rail but because it was wet. He tried several times but it just wasn’t to be, so he instead had a go at the second line on his radar. The harder Naming Rights, a very steep crack that really doesn’t offer much in the way of handholds. While, as proven above, he got up the route, I’m sure he won’t be offended by me saying it was not in the best style. He and then I too had to dog our way past the crux:
Despite Kym’s two lines being too much for today, we were not put out and it was my lead next. This time I headed up Baited Frenzy, a route established in 86 and sharing the first half with the much more popular Digital Delecti that was established twenty years later in 06. Both Mario and I really enjoyed the line, and to boot it had enough gear to make it sane. The only reason I can think this one gets less attention is because it is a full trad line, and possibly also due to the route description:
I however will definitely jump on it again, and will also be encouraging others to do so. I was not surprised when Mario came up hungry for more. And he then made short work of what I consider to be the best line on the crag. It’s not a crazy grade but does have a very fine, technical and sustained mid-section that is easy to pump out on with no escape. For this very reason, he confessed that Use No SLCDs was a route that put him on edge. Today however there was no hint of nerves or uncertainty:
I was feeling pretty tired following up, but we had left some gear at the base and also if you are keeping count you’ll notice we were only five routes in. It was my turn to be on edge with the next lead, Trust Your Instincts is a somewhat steep and pumpy line. The last section is awesome and feels super exposed, and even more so when you are feeling tired. Providing the perfect situation for your mind to drift. With arms tiring, the question is do you try to place more gear or run it out and hope you have enough gas in the tank:
I went with the latter and thankfully judged my physical and mental energy levels well, pulling over the top totally exhausted. Mario came up with the last of the gear securely contained in his jacket dangling below him. A sign that we might be wrapping the session up, but somehow we both got confused and thought we needed to get one more line in to even up the leads. I’m guessing we were both a bit mentally done, but Mario was keen to finish on the much more relaxed Banana Split:
This is usually the warm-up climb when we come to this area, and today it proved an equally great warm-down climb. It is impossible not to enjoy this route, although as I topped out my fingers, forearms, shoulders, back, legs, feet and brain were all strongly advising me to do no more. The timing was good. Mario too felt like he was done for the day, and out to sea a rain band was heading our way so it was a rapid pack up to avoid repeating what happened last week when all the gear and rope got wet:
Sandbagged 