It feels like it has been a long time since I have been to the main cliffs at Wilyabrup, and looking back it has been almost three months. Today for the first visit in such a long time Howsie and I were on a mission. He has not been feeling all that great and I was still wondering how I would pull up after my trip over east, so thankfully it was not related to Howsie’s 2022 mission. Something that he will openly admit has slipped a little. Walking in felt good, a bit like meeting an old friend and the ocean was calm making me wish I’d brought my snorkel gear:
We started with a recognisance of the crag, not so much to scope what we would be climbing but to allow John Morris to see the climbs that were the target for today’s photo shoot. Howsie had picked up on a social media post in which John had said he was coming over to Western Australia, in search of the best grade 17 and under climbs. He and his dad Steve, had previously published a book of the best 50 climbs at that grade in Victoria. The idea was now to expand this out to the best grade 17 and under climbs in Australia:
The rationale for scoping out the crag was to look at the best photo angles for each route. And having taken so many images of so many climbers on these routes I thought it would be a good idea to give him a tour before we started. Being the morning the sun plays havoc with the contrast, but this was their only opportunity so we had to make the most of it. The first route was an obvious choice, literally everyone climbs Hope and it is very deserving of the three stars it gets. With John ready above Steel Wall, Howsie set off:
Mel followed up next and I cleaned the route, and as the four of us met at the top of the cliff John had already selected the image he wanted to use. This guy doesn’t mess about and was very efficient with his setups and making sure he had what he needed. The next line only gets two stars but again is super popular, and deservedly so. It was turn for a lead on Inner Space. I could feel my muscle aching more than I would expect, but having been up this route countless times I was able to make a clean and slow ascent allowing John the time to get some good images:
Mel once again followed up, and once we were all on top John declared he was keen to now sample a bit of the climbing here for himself. Between Howsie and he, the climbs selected for the photo shoot were mapped out, but John had also selected a couple of routes he was keen to jump on. Noting being needed for the book these were a tad harder than grade 17, and he started with One for the Road. A route I had suggested when writing the guide wasn’t worthy of the three stars it gets, being a one move wonder and a little inconsistent. Like the rest of the local climbers, John wasn’t convinced of my harsh assessment but did agree it was a one move wonder:
The crag was still relatively quiet, with only one other couple out climbing. Despite it being a long weekend it seems the place has been quiet and they said that they had the place to themselves yesterday. Maybe with the opening of the boarders all the other climbers have been jumping on planes to get over east or overseas. The quietness was however welcome and I selfishly hope that the number of climbers we have been witnessing here over the last two years starts to drop again. We sat at the top of the cliff, and the clear calm water allowed a great view of the dolphins swimming along even when they were underwater:
Next up was one of my favourites, but not one I see people climbing too often. That is despite when writing the guide, and by popular demand, this one was afforded three stars. It is the ultimate midgrade trad line, and tests the skills and nerves. It was Howsie’s turn and I was surprised to hear that this was the first time he had led the route. He chewed up the line and lapped up the amazing exposure that Golden Buttress offers. While John, once again, was perched above taking images:
As I followed up after Howsie, John and Mel scooted across to the second route they (or should I say he) was keen to try. Stainless Steel, is without doubt one of the best grade 21s around. A great length and continually engaging, while not required for his book he had set his camera up to take images as he climbed. Howsie and I watched as he climbed the route, clearly unable to contain the joy he was getting from the steep technical terrain. It is fair to say that they really liked the climbing Wilyabrup, and Howsie and I also talked up the many other crags along our short stretch of coastline:
Interestingly, despite putting the call out on the three Facebook groups for Perth, the South West and South Coast John had got very few responses. As such he was relying a lot on what he could find online and in guidebooks. Now that they had sampled Wilyabrup they were however keen for more, and our talk of the other great crags might even sway them to come back for another stint. Too late to be included in the proposed book, but it is possible that from the many images I have taken over the last fifteen plus years, some might make it into the books gallery:
What with all the looking round, taking of images and chatting, time was ticking on and John and Mel’s one morning of climbing here was coming to an end. They still had to drive up to Perth, as they were flying out tomorrow. To assist them with a quick getaway, as Mel enjoyed Steel Wall, Howsie and I went up First Climb with all the packs. Then on the walk out we had to make one final stop, to take an image or two of the best view from a bush toilet you are likely to get. I’ll be keen to see the finished product, and might even be tempted to buy the book myself:
Sandbagged 