With a date like today’s, combined with Howsie’s 2022 challenge of attempting every grade 22 in the south west climbing guide, how could we not take a day out from the routine of life to bag a 22 or two. In fact we thought maybe in keeping with the date Howsie should jump on three 22s, but that did limit our options of where to climb. Welly Dam, which we visit most Friday mornings before work, or Bob’s Hollow were the two obvious places. Wit felt like we climb at the former enough, and for the latter the access track is still closed due to the recent bushfires:
So it came down to lines that he was particularly keen to try. There are some climbs that people see and they yearn to be climbed, it may be the neatness of the line, the rock architecture or simply a name of a route that draws you in. And for today Howsie’s response was swift, Smiths Beach it was. Not only for a great climb, but also possibly only the second ascent of the route. We arrived as light was just peeking into the sky, the timing was great. This place gets early sun and it would heat up like a hot box today, with a forecast of about 30 degrees:
To limber up the body and become accustomed to the rock, we popped into the smaller of the two zawns first. Of all places to climb around here, this is the one where you want to ease into the climbing. The roundness of the rock, and coating of small flakes that always seem to be present is not everyone’s cup of tea. And even us who venture here more frequently need to re-familiarise ourselves with these characteristics. There were two primary reason for the smaller zawn, Howsie hasn’t done many of the routes here and there are a few fun lower to mid-grade lines, perfect to get the body moving:
Sadly the rock was wet, and on one wall it was so wet that the rock felt slimy. So after one route we moved into the big zawn, where the rock was merely a little damp to touch. The friction however shone through and after a second slightly trickier warmup climb, Howsie looked up and decided now was the time. Buffalo Soldier has a tenuous, what I feel is a grade 22 traverse, on small holds some offering little more than friction, with final a nerve wrecking lean across to flake feature:
As you’ll see between the above and below image, it really doesn’t take long for the sun to creep up on you in this place. So Howsie was in full sun as he got to the traverse. There was the usual Howsie yo-yoing, in a sideways fashion, as each time he inched his way closer to the flake. Then reversing the moves back to the safety of the stance just below the gear. Eventually he went for it and leaned over, holding onto not much, as his fingertips just made contact with the flake. Pulling over the flake Howsie was deservedly very chuffed, as you will find out if you watch the video:
It is only the second time I have been on this route, and I really enjoyed it. In fact I feel like I should lead it again sometime. Speaking of which you may notice there is no mention of me having led anything. There were a few reasons for this, firstly I was a feeling weary and uncoordinated, not a good way to be when climbing on this type of rock; secondly, and sadly, I think I have been climbing too much of late and my old shoulder injury is starting to niggle again; and most importantly Howsie was climbing well from the start and I wanted to give him the best chance to bag Buffalo Solider. Allowing him to have lead after lead to build up his confidence, without getting too tired by following me up additional lines:
It had worked well, and he was feeling up for giving The Holy Grail a bash. While he got up it and had great fun, after the event, even he would agree he needs to go back and lead it again. As there was what some may call unacceptable techniques adopted. While he hadn’t exhausted his physical stamina on the first three routes, he had worn down his mental focus. And this route is even more of a mind game than Buffalo Soldier, despite being an easier grade. To finish off and Craig, you may be happy to hear, your line Small Pro also got what is probably it’s second ascent:
It was only nine in the morning as we walked out but it was already 28 degrees and the zawns were unbearable. Despite such a short climbing window, there was another reason we picked Smith Beach. It allowed us to head for a dip afterwards. The usual crowd of tourists were heading into the natural feature located approximately half way along the bay between the zawn and Canal Rocks. We left them to The Aquarium, another overrun Insta-famous attraction. Instead, jumping in the water at the Canal Rock’s boat ramp, and having the place to ourselves:
For a change we headed along the edge of the rocks out to the ocean. Some areas dropped off quite deeply, which meant there may have been bigger things out there. I only spotted one that was cruising along the edge of the sandy bay. My guess, based on body shape, is a Grouper? But it was heading steadily away from me and was in water over 10m deep, so my chances of getting any closer to check it out were zero. No matter we saw heaps of fish, and while I did take a few images, I was mostly content with just watching them:
They seemed to be in full feeding frenzy, mixed shoals of fish were hovering round the rocks. As the larger species pecked away at the rocks in search of a feed, the smaller fish seemed to be waiting until the dislodged bits floated out into the water allowing them to dart in to grab them. As I went down the big fish swam away quickly, while the smaller ones kept feeding not being too worried until I got really close. This Bluelined Leatherjacket (Meuschenia galii) and Brownfield’s Wrasse (Halichoeres brownfieldi) didn’t however seem to mind me saying hello:
On our return swim we attempted to head into the canal, and just as we went under the bridge we spied a large group of squid watching us. As we attempted to head into the deep canals the swell was starting to pick up and it really didn’t look all that inviting. So instead we turned around and slowly pottered back to the beach, spotting plenty of life below us along the way. Fair to say that Howsie may not have bagged three 22s today, but he did get a great one under his belt and we both had a very fun climb and snorkel:
Sandbagged 