The beach is back! During my previous trips to Moses Rocks I was in awe of just how much of the beach had been washed away by the winter storms. The last trip was in late August only ten weeks back (https://wordpress.com/post/sandbagged.blog/6710). But the sand is now returning and not just to the main beach, which was beautifully lit up in the morning light, but also the little cove that we cross before getting to the crag:
Today Andrew was keen to get back out and like me he really likes Moses Rocks. My thoughts were on climbing in one particular spot and he seemed amenable to the idea. So we wandered along the top of the crag, and set ourselves up to rap into the zawn. With a two to three meter swell I wasn’t sure it would work, but easterly winds and a low’ish tide made it possible. Better still, and I was a little surprised, the rock was dry with no seepage coming down the slab at the back of the zawn:
None of the routes here are particularly hard, especially when the rock is as dry as it was today. But Andrew was still more than happy for me to rack up for the first lead. And I of course obliged. These routes mostly have generous holds, although the horizontal breaks in which they sit can feel a little spaced, plus most of the holds are rounded or slopers. Regardless of that I felt immediately at home, as my hands made contact with the friction this rock offers which more than makes up for the lack of positive edges to pull on:
Climbing initially on the southern wall we didn’t use the rap line for each decent, instead scrambling down. The scramble is never too hard but you do need to keep your wits about you, checking the rock and watching where you are going. I wasn’t too worried about not rapping in each time, as I feel much more comfortable scrambling down. It just seems to me you have more control of what you are doing. I was soon on the sharp end again, as Andrew was happy for me to lead him up another route:
The local climbers may notice the shiny looking quick draw above. Like a few others, Andrew took advantage of a local outdoor shop selling these quick draws at almost half the retail price. And since having bought them he was yet to put them into action. Normally we would have organised who was to bring what, but for one reason or another that didn’t happen this time. So while I had carted all my gear in we only used my cams and I racked up with his quick draws, extenders, wires and tricams:
As we scrambled down for the third route Andrew started to hint that he might be keen to have a lead. He racked up while I sat there and watched as the next set of waves rolled in and sent water spraying over the rocks. It felt great to be back in the zawn, the low tide and easterly wind kept the swell from coming in too hard. That said we kept a sharp eye out in case anything bigger came in. Whenever the next set of waves rolled in, they sounded worse than they were and only on one occasion did we get caught out when both of us landed up with wet feet:
Andrew tackled the right side of the slab at the back of the zawn and I could tell from his movements and chatter that he was having a ball. So I was hopefully I could encourage him to bag another lead. As we sorted the gear looking out to sea the water in front of the crag was looking very inviting. I mentioned my plans to mix up the trips out with a snorkel, which Andrew liked the sound of. But we both agreed that the swell would need to drop a bit before it was worth thinking of going in here, so maybe next time:
Going back down Andrew was happy for me to take the next lead, so we plumped for the classic of the zawn that also happens to be one of the first route recorded here. Two routes were established in 1989 by Tyson. By then there were five instalments of the A Nightmare on Elm Street franchise, which he made use on in naming the two routes he put up. I had led Freddy Kruger’s Claw for my second lead, but this one called A Wet Dream on Elm Street is the best line. With a steep middle section that keeps you on edge:
I could tell Andrew was getting tired, as he followed me up this steeper line. But as you will see above he had left his jacket in the zawn, so we had to go back down at least one more time. I wasn’t sure if he would be keen, but I kept hinting that he could take the floppy end for a second lead. And I was very happy when he racked up and tied in to take on the big corner. He was a bit tired I could hear concern in his voice, as he made the first few moves. This also happened to be when we both got caught out by a wave:
He inched his way up, breathing more heavily and each movement looked like it felt strenuous and tenuous. That no doubt meant he was holding on harder than he needed to, further draining his energy. But the gear is plentiful on this line and each time he placed a piece I could see and hear him relax a bit, before going back into tension as he moved above the gear. In part as I was away from the base of his route to avoid standing slippery boulders and in part not being sure how he would go, I anchored myself in ready to take the fall:
But just like the mosquitos that never gave up trying to draw blood, even from the rope! Andrew also didn’t give up and he managed a clean ascent with no falls or rests, topping out deservedly very happy. Admitting afterwards that he had to push himself both mentally and physically to keep going. This time there was no reasons to head back down, but he foolishly told me he probably had one more second in him. So it was we rapped back down:
Knowing that Andrew was a tad tired I picked one of the slabs at the back of the wall. This one looked the thinnest and most poorly protected of the lines on the slab, and it is not one I have led before. I made it harder for myself by avoiding the bigger holds but even using them I wonder if this is the hardest line on the slab, which is contrary to what the guidebook says. I even noticed that there is a typo that snuck into the guide, well not so much a typo but more of a not so uncommon mix up of mine with lefts and rights:
Speaking of guides, Andrew spied one at the base of Hand’s Up Wall just across from where we were. Obviously having been left behind by someone and fortunately only sporting a little water damage, and unfortunately having no hint of who the owner may be. Needless to say we took it with us as we walked out, going along the base of the crag in case there may have been more crag booty lying about. There were no other forgotten treasures to be found but we did have a surprise as the beach came into view:
The beach was packed with more people than I’ve ever seen here. Heaps of people were surfing, so many so that we wondered if there was an event on. But as we wandered along the beach, which had been empty on our arrival, there were no signs of an organised event being run. I guess the sun was just bringing everyone out, and like the beach the carpark and road leading towards it was also packed. It felt weird coming into this hive of social activity after we had the crag all to ourselves, completely unaware of and isolated from the beach that was getting increasingly busier:
Sandbagged 