It’s been a while since Glen has been out on rock and this week he posted that he was keen to reinitiate his involvement in climbing. He also foolishly posted that last weekend he went out fishing, and left home at 4:30am. However, instead of capitalising on the chance for an early start and possible first light climb we were wandering down the path at 6:30 well after another glorious day had begun. The reason for not getting out so early was mostly because Glen self-confessed to not being all that fit, and it had been close to a year since he had touched rock:
Despite the long duration since he had climbed, and his very intermittent appearance on rock for a year or two before that, Glen hinted of two climbs he might consider leading. But before we got to that it felt only right for me to take the sharp end, allowing him to reassociate himself to what climbing felt like with the safety of a rope above. Tom Thumb is a fun route up a widening crack that almost gets to body width. As I watched his footwork looked a little cack-handed and I could see the extreme focus on his face, as he worked the route:
He indicated the first taste of rock was a bit of a rude awakening and his forearms were pumped. Also that his head was in a bit of a spin. So I was a little surprised when he said he would jump on lead, hitting the first route he had mentioned before. Twenty Questions was in his sights, and as is so often the case your ability and mindset can really change when you are leading. With the rope below the brain can sharpens and old skills can come back to the fore, as proven by Glen who really didn’t spend too long in getting up the line:
I had to encourage him to pop a piece of gear in a couple of occasions. As I could see from his movements he was tempted to move on and run out the gear. But other than the two interjections I was impressed with how he kept his cool and didn’t do anything silly. All of his gear was bomber, something I come to expect of Glen when he remembers to put it in, and is in part as a result of all his prior state emergency services training. The reason he was keen to come to Wilyabrup today was to jump on longer lines, as most other crags round here are relatively short:
I thought that may have been his undoing when I next led Thunder Thighs. The initial crack that is six or so meters long can feel insecure and technical. Then the upper section requires more focus on small holds, for the grade, up a steep wall. But he again impressed, and while I could see him shaking out a lot more than on the previous two routes he held it together. Today I was making sure my belays were set up to ensure that if Glen took a fall I’d be in a comfy position not needing to take any weight, but I never had to put any of the setups to the test:
The other route Glen had in mind to have a go at leading was Hope, but after the first three routes and based on how his body was feeling he sensibly lowered his sights. Instead he opted for the alternative start of Dunlop Special. I understood what he was thinking, in that he would have the initial steep wall to deal with after which the route would switch to a nice angled slab. So as his energy levels depleted the climbing would get less strenuous. That said, climbing is so much more a mental challenge than physical. And today Glen was definitely managing to control the mental strain, when the climbing got steeper:
Once on the slab he was able to relax a bit more, but his movements were getting slower and more deliberate. A sure sign of getting tired, but his well laid plan served him well and the easier angle provided lots of opportunity to rest that he sensibly made use of. I was all prepared to hear that it was time to wrap up for the day. But as we sat on top of the crag Glen said he was happy to follow me up Hope, comic to the self-realisation that it was probably a bit too hard for him today. As we wandered back down, it was close to ten and finally other people had arrived:
While there was currently only one small crew that had arrived, we were advised that a big mob of climbers were on their way down. While he seems to have an aversion to them, Glen confessed that early starts were great. Not only to avoid the sun but also the crowds. In addition for both of us climbing isn’t a sport and we come here to enjoy the place. While it may come across a little selfish, it feels like we can enjoy the setting more when the place is quiet and peaceful:
For those who know the route, you may notice what is wrong with the image above. While Glen had started well as he got half way up the crux sequence his head started to play games. I can say that as he had enough strength, will power and control to be able to traverse off the line, Heading left and up with no prior knowledge of what lay ahead, without slapping for holds or losing control. Also he probably expended more energy doing that than if had simply finished off the crux sequence. After his little detour he stood there shaking out his arms, as he watched out to sea. There was no rush, as we both watched a small pod of dolphins cruise past:
As we wandered back down more climbers were milling about, with more ropes and gear being taken out as we passed. We said a few hellos as we carried on towards the final route of the morning. I’m not entirely sure how or why but Glen was up for a final lead. I had previously pointed him towards First Climb, and it was decided that we would climb out with packs. However, I could see he was getting weary so we stuffed all of our gear into my pack ready for me to shoulder when I followed him out. That was a definitely a wise move, with Glen climbing slower and slower:
After each move he stopped looking for the next holds and where he might place gear. I could see him breathing more heavily and his body had that weird hanging posture that is not quite boneless but wanting to slump into a heap. Then, as he approached the part where he was supposed to launch into the corner he falter. Just like his last trip outdoors eleven months back, when I sent him up this very line, the corner drove fear into his heart and intimidated him to the point that he took the very same detour he did back then. He finished up Dunlop Special but there was no shame to it. Having managed to get up six routes, half of which he led, I really couldn’t bag him out… this time:
Sandbagged 