It felt like it had been forever since I had climbed at Wilyabrup, but looking back it has only been a mere two months. On that trip we climbed with three. Ash, having his first bash at trad leading, and Jaime happy to second up nearly anything. Today I headed back with Tomski and Jaime, and as we approached the morning was looking glorious. Ash was considering tagging along, but after a few days of outdoor adventure he said he had housework to do, while his mates who we met down there indicated he was a little cooked from all the other adventures. Despite only arriving half an hour after light had crept in, it was already bright and after just leading up one climb also hot and sticky:
I had already mapped out a bit of a plan of attack for today, and we started as I had planned. The Unbolted and the Beautiful, which I originally graded 15, once again proved to be a tough opposition. Jaime came second and the crux, which some say is worthy of 17, had her beat. There is fortunately an escape past this up the route to the right, but after that there is no getting away from the relentless headwall. Great holds but no rests. Tomski also struggled, probably rushing in a bit, like a kid in a candy store. Chomping at the bit he came up, and a couple of times he just did not seem to stop and think things through:
I had thought Tomski would cruise it, as he’d just spent two week climbing in Tasmania. But where he was climbing for those two weeks the rock had superb friction and it was cold, relatively speaking. Here the hard Gneiss does not soak up any moisture and today was humid, making the many smeary holds feel like soap. Layered on top of that Tomski really hasn’t climbed a huge amount, so jumping on a rock that demanded a different approach and style had thrown him. Climbing is so hugely variable depending on the rock, conditions and your state of mind, which to me is a big part of the appeal of trying different places when I can:
My original intention was to bump it up for the second route and hit One for the Road. While they both enjoyed the challenge of the first route, based on how they had gone there seemed to be some sense in dialling it back. So we ambled up Glory at a relaxed grade 13. As I belayed up top in full sun sweat was dripping off me and the mossies buzzed all around. It was weird to have not even completed two routes before it felt hot. So much so I wouldn’t have been surprised if we wrapped up early today. Jaime was stoked as she followed up, getting over the small rooflet clean first attempt. Previously when we climbed it, that section had given her grief:
Tomski was still adjusting the more open hand rounded holds, the routes he’d been on in Tasmania were sport routes with more in cut positive holds. The use of open hand holds makes use of a different set of muscles and that was not only foxing him but also making his arms pump out quickly. After veering off my planned itinerary for the second route we came back on track for number three. There are two fabulous 18s on the upper part of Steel Wall, with a great ledge to set up camp on. So we rapped down and it felt like bliss, both the shade and a slight cooling breeze made it so much more comfortable:
I took the first lead up the trad 18, a great route that is technically never very hard but requires focus, as you run it out between gear placements. Not all of which inspire confidence, and the hot sweaty conditions made the lead a bit more nervous than usual. I took my time and carefully made my way up. In the background I could hear Jaime and Tomski questioning whether they would be able to follow me, and I feel that my much slower and cautious pace was making them think it looked too hard. Both however managed a clean second, and while they may have had a few tentative moments on the smaller holds they both came up with big smiles:
The other 18 is fully bolted, and I had in mind for Tomski to have a bash at leading it. So we rapped back down to our lofty perch and he got himself psyched up for the lead. I wasn’t too sure how he would go, but the way he climbed the last 18 gave me more confidence. He was slowing down and being more thoughtful, and also using his feet better. Also on this wall the holds tend to be more in cut and crimpy holds. A style that he was more used to. Before we rapped down he was hinting that he was happy to try because of the clean falls, and that he probably wouldn’t get it clean:
We needn’t have worried, as is usually the case when you lead your mind kicks into gear. The consequences of making a mistake are far more real and you become more focused on the task that lays ahead. This showed, Tomski made more deliberate but not rushed movements. Checking holds and making sure he worked his feet well, not over extending and never slapping for any holds. It was great to watch, and he looked like a completely different climber to the Tomski we had seen on the first climb of the day. Not only was it a great lead but it was also his first time at belaying from the top of a route:
While whether you belay from the bottom or top may seem like a small thing, it does change how you go about it. The way you catch a fall changes and to make it comfortable your belay setup also changes. Both Jaime and Tomski throughout the day were eager to observe, ask and discuss all the elements of climbing, looking at what they could do to improve their climbing. It is as simple as how you place your feet to allow rotation in your knees and hips, not over extending yourself to avoid getting stuck in a position that is near impossible to get out of and as the day had worn on the climbing styles had improved:
It had felt like we had been moving well on rock today despite climbing with three, and we were now four routes in. But when we checked the time five hours had slipped past, midday was closing in on us and the sun was creeping round. Soon to bathe every wall. We were back on the deck, and without the elevated position to maximise the slight breeze you could feel the heat again. While time had caught up with us, the heat was rising and the sun was soon to be on us we all felt good after the last couple of routes and so decided on just one more. My plan was only to hit the four routes, so we walked along to pick a line and decided on the wall with the most shade:
This also happened to be occupied by several other groups and as I set off up Inner Space, without warning, a rope came down from above. We made a few terse comments about the stupidity of not checking below before throwing the rope down and the guilty party eventually and sheepishly came over and apologised. I carried on up regardless, the holds felt slippy and I wondered how the other two might go. Jaime managed to get most of the way up before she was toast and Tomski not quite as far before he was slipping off the slimy holds. The decision was made pretty quickly after that, time to pack up and sweat our way back to the car. We agreed that next time we would hit Innerspace first up, with fresh arms and hopefully cooler conditions:
Sandbagged 