Ever hopeful that the five day lockdown was enough to abate an increase in community spreading of the virus, we organised a trip to Welly Dam for Saturday morning. It wasn’t until the bells tolled at six o’clock Friday evening did we were whether our planned trip would be allowed to go ahead. Fortune was on our side and I found myself making a cuppa for the journey ready to leave the house at 5am, and of course one for Lisa in a sippy cup to be enjoyed at what some might call a more respectable time of the morning. Arriving at the Dam the Muriel is getting close to being finished so I stopped for a while to admire the impressive work:
It was dark for more of the drive than I had expected, remember we had started to climb here at 5am just a week back. This was part due to the remains of a cyclone pushing a cloud bank over us, but also due to the longest day having passed and the seasons being on the downward slope to the shortest day. I met Howsie and Mikey at the Dam, and we reckoned that our 5am before work climb may require head torches soon for the first climb. Also as the early morning temperatures drop, which won’t be for at least three months, Rongy who doesn’t function so well in the cold may decide not to join us before work. But that is the future and we were in the present:
Mikey has been over for close to a month, and this is the first time I have met him. Usually on his trips over here it would be a matter of days from his arrival that we would meet up at some crag. For this trip he is however staying for a year, so the pressure to cram trips out to rock is off. Also he has completed his 10km challenge so the urgency to get out on new routes is also off. Howsie however has his own challenge, as you should well know by now, and to kick things off I suggested he lead Ebonie Road. I had good reason to suggest this climb:
It could have been a tall ask, not only is it a route that he used to really struggle on but it was also the first route of the day, so the muscles hadn’t been warmed up yet. But he cruised it in great style, after which we pulled the rope twice so both Mikey and then I could lead it. As we were getting down to business Andrew rocked up, new to the south west climbing community and also new to climbing. As his first venture on rock Welly Dam was probably not the best choice. But he had made the effort, so Mikey jumped on Murky Corner. Being one of the easier lines here it offered a good intro to Welly Dam for Andrew:
Andrew had a crack at the corner, while needing to learning all the basic techniques. This included that it is best to keep on your toes and not the sides of your feet as son many new climber do, as this allows you more ability to twist your legs; using your core muscles to pull into the wall, and take the weight of your arms; not over gripping with your hands, and learning to relax even when you are scared; resting when you can, and focusing on breathing to help you relax; and most importantly use your feet and legs, they are after all the biggest and strongest muscles you have. It was a huge ask on the steep and technical walls at Welly Dam:
What with Andrew having a crack at climbing for the first time, and adding Murky Corner to our itinerary my lead changed from what I had in mind to a route closer by so we could hang about together as a group. So instead of A Walk in Central Park I picked an equally fingery route, but one that is way more sustained and technical. Small fingertip sized holds, smeary feet, sustained moves to link together and the risk of descent falls all make Taj vs The World one of the best routes here, in my opinion. Despite knowing this route inside out, I was close to coming off several times but somehow managed to cling on each time:
Howsie and then Mikey went next and neither of them fare so well, the first and second clip isn’t too bad. A few small holds and long reaches can get you there, but between the second and third clip it gets serious. Non-stop action, that you need to tackle at a steady and controlled pace. It is not until your feet are above the last draw can you reach the next clip, and even then making that clip feels tenuous and scary. If you don’t make it there is plenty of air time that awaits you, as they both found out on numerous occasions slowly wearing down their stamina and shredding the skin from their finger tips:
So with Andrew having been beaten by Murky Corner, after a valent effort and trying in a determined fashion while being strongly encouraged and tutored by the three of us below, and Howsie and Mikey finally deciding they needed a break we had a change of scenery. On our last trip here Rongy had talked up Irish Stew, one of the fine but short slab routes straight off the carpark. This wall also has a route that we felt Andrew would have a far better chance of getting up. So Howsie hit Irish Stew while Mikey climbed The Crack, with me belaying both of them at the same time:
While some may roll their eyes at some of our antics and be quick to tell us that it probably is not sensible nor safe, we did confess to Andrew that what he was witnessing was not the best practise and also something we do not do very often. No drama’s befell us and they both managed a clean ascent, allowing Andrew to have a bash at the Crack while I followed Howsie up Irish Stew. And yes Rongy it was great fun, and worth climbing again after such a long time of walking past it. Andrew did well and managed to get up the Crack, but the two routes of the day had wiped him out:
With that he decided to not climb anymore, which was probably very sensible and I do hope that he wasn’t put off this wonderful pastime by having had his first experience at the very intimidating and extremely unforgiving Welly Dam. While it may sound like I’m not selling the place, these are the words that many use on their first visit here. You however need to immerse yourself in the place several times before you start to realise just how great it is. The three of us carried on but before we returned to the unfinished business on the big walls I lead B Young, allowing Howsie and Mikey to get used to small fingertip holds again:
Back on Taj and Howsie made short work of the route this time, bagging another 21. So all that was left was for Mikey to get up it. He didn’t get to the third clip, again and again and again. Taking fall after fall after fall and at times not looking to be making any progress. Eventually he reached the conclusion he again needed a rest from this climb, as his energy was being sucked out of him and his fingertips became more and more tender. So Howsie walked along the crag ready to point me to a climb he want to follow up on, finally deciding on my original intention of A Walk in Central Park:
Central Park is a route named so as it can spit you off at any time, and you never know when that might happen. However, after triumphing on Taj the holds on Central Park felt generous and easy to navigate. The only issue with the route being that you need to top out, since Steve had removed the ugly but effective chains at the top. So as Howsie followed up I suggested he might like to down climb Pocket Knife rather than walk off. And strangely, as so often happens when I suggest such things, he did. Mikey was resting up so I promptly did the same as Howsie, before it was back to Taj:
As can be seen above Mikey tried again, and again, and again. I’ve included a quick video clip of one of his attempts, in which he make a remark that could be said about so many of the holds on this route… just before he takes yet another fall. To give you an idea the hold he is talking about is worse than the one shown in the image below, which again is from this route. His persistence was admirable and finally, I’m pleased to say, it paid off. Neither of them had anything left in the tank for more climbing, so having watched the boys on this route for so long I couldn’t resist and had to jump on it one more time before we packed up and headed home:
Sandbagged 