In March 2008 Andrew, Howsie, Rongy And I set off for a weeklong trip to the South Coast. It was for them the first long climbing trip, and while it does not come up in regular conversation it is something that stuck in their minds. I discovered just how much that trip meant to them when COVID19 hit and while stuck at home I started to write up about the local climbers here in the South West and they were given an equal opportunity to write about me. All three of them had found memories of that trip, and so in May 2020 I hatched a plan and suggested a South Coast Revisited trip:
Last time we went in March and were hit with blistering 40 plus degree days. It didn’t put us off and we cranked on. In fact we were oblivious to it, until we checked the weather later, thinking that we were maybe not quite as climbing fit as we thought. This time we picked November, aiming for a spring time and working it amongst the many family commitments we all have now. Being a weeklong trip this will be a long post, with tales of rock adventures, the locations and orchids but mostly rock. We set off on Saturday 7th November, and I left home at a very reasonable time of 7:30am:
With a full week of climbing ahead of us we were in no rush, in fact with all this time to climb it offered the chance to ease into it and slow down. Most times we get out we have a short window, usually a morning. We get out and smash out the routes. Rongy is probably the strongest climber and keen to push himself, Howsie is up there and highly motivated whilst Andrew would admit he is not very climbing fit. This time we had a game plan of where we would go but not necessarily what we would climb. It was a case of take one day, or more precisely one climb, at a time:
Some effort was put into considering the locations for this trip, it may have been a revisit but we did not intend to repeat the road map exactly. This time we picked different locations to visit, all bar the last location but that was to satisfy Howsie and his 2020 challenge. The crags were all new to at least one of us, and in some cases all four of us. Our first destination was Monkey Rocks, Howsie having been the only person to climb here before. It was a three and half hour drive from Bunbury, after which we stopped for some lunch in Denmark where we also got the climbing packs sorted:
We set off up the short but sharp hike up to the rock at midday. It was already feeling toasty, and the flies were thick but with childlike excitement of knowing what was ahead of us we motored upwards eager to touch rock. Also being the first location, that sense of needing to slow down and take our time slipped to the back of our minds. We did however start sensibly on a couple of easy routes that were gnarly old school trad lines. Depending on how you tackled them they required a bit of awkward jamming, lay-backing, chimneying and of course a bit of grunting:
We then started to hit the bolted lines, that followed the blank areas of the granite dome that sits high in the landscape. From the top there were great views across to the embayment from where the Harding River flows into the ocean. We didn’t hang about on top all that much, still enthused to climb, with bursting energy and desire to cram the routes in. At the top of the dome I did however luck upon a tiny Common Mignonette Orchid in amongst a thicket of grass, a species Lisa and I spotted at Meelup Nature Reserve. With so many images to choose from in this post I will generally only include images of the new species found:
Tickety, tick, tick we marched on and when we thought we were done because we were out of water and tired, we realised it was only half three. So we hit a few more including a relatively new line, below. This one was a stunner and also the hardest of the day coming in at grade 19. Finally, with seven routes under our belt, we felt satisfied and headed back to the car. My intention is not to list every climb, as that would take way too long and in my mind result in a boring read. However, I know some will be keen to know what we did and as such have included a full tick list of the trip at the end of this post:
That night we stopped in Denmark. A feed and beer was had, but only one, as there was no room for woolly heads in the morning. Our intention was to have early starts, that way if we were shattered we could finish early but if we were motived or indeed had an epic, it gave us the opportunity to have a long day out. As such a routine was established. I was up at 5:00, which became 4:30 as the trip wore on, and put the kettle on. Sometimes being organised and having a routine has its benefits, and on a trip like this they were delivered in spades. It resulted us in managing a good breakfast and efficient pack-up all before 6am most days:
An hour after rolling out of Denmark we were in the Porongurup’s, heading to Gibraltar Rock. Another granite dome, but this one has an iconic towering 200m face. One of the things the South Coast has on offer, that the South West doesn’t, are long multi-pitch routes. There is nothing better than long lines, on these you have the privilege of seeing the area from on high and the need to rush disappears as you ease yourself into the landscape and soak up the amazing vistas:
Both Rongy and I had climbed here before, and local knowledge can at times be helpful in knowing what gear to bring and where to go. Only this time we missed the track through the bush, which comes off the main fire break. If we had walked an additional 200m we would have found it. While it was not that bad a hike, today was again going to be warm with a forecast in the high twenties. It was already heating up and we arrived hot and sweaty at the base of the granite monolith:
I mentioned that Andrew was not very climbing fit. He had held up well on day one and today there was a route that we knew he’d really enjoy, which he later indicted was the route of the trip for him. Raven is a relatively recently established well-protected route which is a rarity for Gibraltar Rock, a great consistent grade 14. To boot it also has a bit of variation so it does not feel too repetitively, which some lower grade slab routes can. I did this line almost a year ago to the day with Kym, so if you are keen you can check out more info about it via the link:
Rongy and I, having both been up Raven, were eager to try one of the old routes here called Dockyard Wall. Being an older routes, established in the early 1990’s, there may have been a bolt or two but they tended to be runout and a bit on the nervous side. This place has a reputation and the guidebook states that it is “characterised by fear and loathing”. However, both Rongy and I like exposure and get a weird kick out of being in nervous situations. My head for this stuff has waned since becoming a dad, but the fire is still there and a spark was certainly reignited on this route:
Being springtime it is of course hay fever time, and this year seems to be particularly bad according to many people I know. Andrew was by far the worst affected, but Howsie and I were also feeling it pretty bad. As such another benefit with such long climbs, is that we were high above the landscape and more importantly the vegetation. With a breeze in the air this seemed to assist in reducing the effects pollen, seeds and other pesky things were having on all three of us. We timed things well and all ended up on top at the same time, allowing for a rare group image:
Today unlike our first day, we were slowing down. Being our first full day out, and being so hot we knew we had to pace ourselves and also keep ourselves hydrated with regular sips of water. This allowed more time to explore the area. The top has some patches of vegetation but what drew my attention were all the Scented Sun Orchids. I have seen these before but up here there were hundreds of plants, mostly a pale blue but occasionally there was also a pink variety. Eventually I dragged myself way from the flowers and we started to make our way back down:
In the shade of the trees back at the base of the crag we once more endured the flies, and three hay fever sufferers started to feel the effects of the vegetation. We did however need to fuel up, so out came lunch and we spent a while preparing ourselves for the next climb. Some years back someone had come here and established a bunch of new routes, but the bolting technique was heavily criticized and was considered by most as dangerous. Some of these bolts had been replaced but we were not sure which ones so we took a punt:
Howsie and Andrew headed for more slabbing up a two pitch line called Painters and Dockers, being a more reasonable grade for Andrew. While Rongy and I headed to Dinosaur Jnr, the first part being an old school route, but then it deviated up the steeper part of the wall having made use of bolts to make it protectable. So in a way it was a mix of the old and the new, I was feeling tired and grotty both from the heat and hay fever so not looking the most enthused. But Rongy was keen so off he set, and geez I was pleased he did:
The four pitch line was stonking from start to finish, each pitch was amazing. Sustained and engaging following a great line up the more technical and steeper part of this great granite cliff. The final pitch was the stand out for me, up a water runnel beautifully textured allowing bridging almost from start to finish for 30m. Like before the higher I got the more my head cleared, and we both thoroughly enjoyed the route. Even better the bolts looked good, and I’m guessing they had been replaced. There was nothing dodgy about them from what we could tell:
Howsie and Andrew’s line while OK climbing was not as pleasant. The bolts had looked decidedly iffy with signs of corrosion. With bolts being the only form of protection this made for an unsettling experience and they were pleased to be back on the ground. Andrew was definitely done for the day, as a result of having climbed enough but also due to feeling bunged up and the experience of the bad bolts probably not helping. Howsie, still had a bit of fire in him, so as Rongy and I came back down we managed to rig things to allow him to climb the first two pitches of our route:
Many people come here and only hit one route, so we did well today with two routes. In total nine long pitches resulted in the climbing shoes starting to feel a bit sore, and it was time to head out. On the way down we found the right track and the walk out was clearer, that along with going downhill made the walk less sweaty. As we went down the final slabs, which Kym and I slipped down in the rain a year ago, we simply had to have one posed image (below). If you look back to the post of the first South Coast trip, you will see it is very similar to an image I took eight and half years back as we walked off Peak Head:
We got back to the car at 4pm, and still had an hour’s drive to our next destination. But in the shade of the trees it felt too nice to head off straight away. So we made a brew and chilled out for a bit, while Andrew popped another tablet to make it more bearable. The next leg of our journey would take us further east to Cheyne’s Beach Caravan Park, on the edge of an aqua blue bay and tucked up neatly against Waychinicup National Park. On arrival we completely unloaded the car. We would have three nights here allowing for less packing and unpacking, which was nice:
As the trip rolled on we got into an evening routine, for our arrival back at base camp. It basically comprised make a cuppa, cleaning ourselves up, sort the gear for the next day, have a beer, enjoy a hearty meal and hit the sack early. The weather was supposed to be closing in on us for day three, a big front threatening 10-20mm of rain. So in the morning we checked the forecast and decided to jig our itinerary round. Instead of Mermaid Point, we went to Tombstones for two reasons. The latter didn’t require negotiating a four wheel drive track and it wasn’t on the coast:
The walk-ins were getting longer with each location, and this one was a good hour. I have been fortunately to have been here before, again with Kym, when we spent two days bagging lots of the great traditional and bolted routes on offer. I was certainly not upset about coming back here, as there are so many amazing routes. Also on that trip we hadn’t climbed to the very top and I was keen to do that. This place offers steep technical sport routes, which I knew Rongy and Howsie would be keen for. So Andrew and I went for a more relaxed pace up the south face and left them to it:
I was keen to climb Trident, not as long as the routes yesterday at only 110m but still offering three nice length pitches. I thought I had it sussed thinking I could avoid the first hard pitch at grade 19, which I thought Andrew may struggle on, by climbing a grade 15 to its right. Not having climbed Trident before I was mistaken and the first pitch actually kept going for some way past the 15 and was pretty feisty. Andrew dug deep and made it up, and then we could relax into the two more gentle upper pitches:
The wind was picking up the higher we got, and we kept an eye out west but there was no sign of a storm brewing yet. On the last pitch the wind certainly added to the excitement, it felt at times like it wanted to pluck us off the rock and float us away. Once on top we then had to negotiate the amazing water formed rock sculptors, which included bowls and gullies in which vegetation was hiding from the elements and looked to be thriving. It took us a while to work our way through this natural maze going this way and that, and eventually scrambling down the west face to meet Rongy and Howsie:
We found the boys just finishing off on a second fingery and sustained 21, and Howsie was looked knackered. So they offered me a chance to run up a route that Kym and I had eyed off before, but at the time was too wet. I loved it, yet another water runnel with fine bridging up wonderful clean rock. Then handing the rope back to Howsie we dropped the grade back a few notches intended for everyone to head up a two pitch route. Rongy blew a hold but kept going and Andrew blew the toe of his climbing shoe, preventing him from getting up this one:
From atop the second pitch of Hex Marks the Spot the three of us were sheltered in a cave, and as we looked out we saw the first wave of the front come straight at us. Slowly, one by one, the peaks in the distance disappeared from sight as the belt of rain came closer and closer. So we rapped back down, it was time to shelter under the trees and have a bite to eat. The best place for this was down by the south face where Rongy was eyeing up a couple of trad lines up the flakes and cracks:
The rain seemed to pass over quickly, so the first line he went for was the harder of the two. A fine flake that got steeper the higher you go, while the gap behind the flake also narrowed to the point you could only get the tips of your fingers on a small edge. It didn’t pose too many issues for Rongy, and he was soon up sounding very happy having really enjoyed placing some gear and lapping up the more traditional style of climbing after the steep sport routes. In the image below notice the wall in the background, which I’ll mention in a bit:
Howsie followed up and the weariness was seeping back, as he struggled his way past the crux moves. And on a completely separate note in the foreground is one of the hundred plus species of Gastrolobium plants, commonly called poison peas. This plant contained a naturally occurring potent poison called 1080, which is used to bait foxes in Australia. Once a fox, or indeed dog, eats the bait the poison starves cells of calcium and energy and it can take up to three hours for the creature to die. Supposedly it’s not a nice way to go:
There are no known or proven cases of humans having died from ingesting 1080, although records suggest a hunter in the 1960s died after eating jam that contained 1080. Back to the climb and after Howsie came down I followed up, staying at the belay to get a few images of Rongy as he then tackled Apollo. The route that Andrew and I had ascended to try and avoid the first pitch of Trident. As I sat in my harness the wind picked up and the rain started to fall, you might notice the sheen on Rongy’s shoes. It was getting proper wet now but he was keen and kept going, even hinting that the wet conditions had made it even better:
Howsie practically ran up this line, which surprised us. It was full on raining now and a waterfall started to flow down the wall in the background. The sound of water streaming down was lovely to hear but also a sign that we were going to get pretty wet walking out. Despite being only just after 2pm the rain didn’t look like it was going to abate, so it was now definitely time to pack up and get ready to hike out. Everyone stood still with packs on their backs. No one was wanting to go first so I took the lead:
The rationale being that the person in front would cop all the water off the bush, as we walked the hour long hike back out. Needless to say I was completely drenched by the time we got back to the car. However, so was everyone. Despite the conditions we still stopped occasionally to check the sights and plants. Howsie explained how Trigger Plants, which Rongy was drawn too, were pollinated which I will get back too later. Rongy also spotted a Cowslip Orchid (not the image below), so that now made for a successful sighting of a different orchid on three consecutive days:
One difference between this trip and that of eight years back is that we decided to stay in cabins, as oppose to camping it. Initially when I suggested this approach there was some reservation from the others, but in my mind it was pretty clear cut when you consider a camp spot was $15 and cabin $30 per person. By the end of the trip everyone agreed it was so much better this way, and after today’s adventures the porch became a washing room with clothes, shoes, ropes, bags and gear spread all over the place dripping water:
It rained most of the night and we knew that while it may not have as much rain left in it, the front was going to hang about for most of the next day. Despite that my body clock was already set and a cuppa was made and ready for soon after 4:30. By 5am a break in the clouds allowed the sun to briefly light up the cabin, as everyone else was still tucked up in bed showing no signs of wanting to move. Needless to say it was by far the slowest morning of the trip and by about 8:30 we finally jumped in the car to head into Albany. We took our climbing gear, on the off chance things would clear up:
We had in mind to check out the conditions at the Gap, as there are some east facing walls that may have been a bit sheltered. As we came down the final hill the sight that greeted us put paid to any hope of climbing, water was funnelling 20 to 30m in the air out of the gap and came cascading down across the carpark some 50m away from the gap. We parked up on the hill to allow us to get out without being drenched, and walked down to and stood on the skywalk watching this spectacle unfold. The fierce wind and thundering sound of water made it incredibly dramatic (click on the download link to see a video):
We wandered about a few of the spots just taking it all in. The front brought in a huge swell and the waves came crashing in. And despite the rain coming and going, it was hard not to want to be out there experiencing it all. So we decided on a walk round Stoney Hill. Rongy had however not brought any shoes, his like ours were soaked from the day before, but he didn’t have any spares and the rocks on Stoney Hill were just too much for his feet. Not being a long walk Andrew, Howsie and I wander round while Rongy stayed cosy in the car:
It was still way too soon to head back into Albany, for where there was talk of getting lunch out, so we decided on another walk. Peak Head is about an hour’s walk, most of which is a sandy track allowing Rongy to come along. We know this from previous climbing trips out to this great location. On the way out I spotted a Leopard Sun Orchid, plants for which the flower opens in the sun. Needless to say they were firmly closed, but that didn’t matter as that now made it four varied orchid finds on each of the four days (click on the download link to see a video):
Atop the mighty Peak Head we huddled behind a boulder to keep out of the wind. After catching our breathe we decided we should head to the top and as we got closer the full force of the wind hit us. It made the wind Andrew and I experienced, as we topped out on Tombstones seem like a gentle breeze. It was impossible to stand upright, you had to lean right into the wind and the gust threatened to pick you up, so we ended up almost crawling the last section. Finally we headed back down, equally carefully, and our ears rang for a while after we escaped the wind:
The reward for enduring the blustery conditions was a pub feed, which the Earl of Spencer provided perfectly. The chips and pies all round, went down a treat. Before heading back we made a quick stop into a second hand shop, where Rongy got some cheap shoes and Andrew picked up (amongst other bits) a dice game called Yams. The French version of Yahtzee. As it was by the time we got back, shorted all the gear for the next day, had a feed, dried our gear (using the camp drier and the old trick of putting newspaper in your shoes), there was only time for a couple of games:
Another thing that Rongy I had done when we got back from Albany was to drive up to the next climbing spot. It was just a short 4km from the campsite but up a bush track. The campsite manager had told us there were a couple of washed out sections, so we thought we would check them out before we went out expecting to get there and climb. Two of the sections were a tad tricky and as such I opted to let Rongy drive. I don’t mind fessing up that I’m not a fan of four wheel driving. So next morning with the front having been and gone, we were off again bright and early:
Lost World is a place that none of us had been to before. Nor had any of us been to Mermaid Point, the place that we dropped of our itinerary due to the wet and windy day. Mermaid Point is accessed by the same track, and Kym had hinted that the end of the track was really cut up. Have to say that if it was much worse than what we had just driven I’m kinda pleased that we didn’t go down there. The car was parked on a flat granite slab, and as we got ready to walk in Andrew and Howsie looked west as a rain belt was coming our way:
Rongy and I were not put off, today it was forecast for a low probability of not much rain. We were pretty sure it would clear up, and we headed out on the short 700m walk after which we were greeted by what looked to be great granite slabs. Single pitch climbs, mostly, we had the night before decided where we would start. Some gentle grades to get us used to the place but now seeing it, it was also the area that looked the wettest. Rongy was first up and just like at Tombstones he managed to blow a hold and came flying off, only just after I took this image:
We stayed in this area for a while and rapped down and climbed out numerous times. The generally area is environmentally sensitive and walking round the base should not be done. As such the area is equipped to allow a rap down to belay anchors to avoid any disturbance of vegetation. After the first two proper slab routes the next ones started to steepen up and the walls were more featured, lending it more to technical face climbing. Solid rock, great holds and nice sustained moves were found on most of the lines we did:
As Howsie led out on Shadow Boxer I watched him, but then my eyes were drawn to the wall behind him. While we had mapped out a bit of a game plan the steep, grey and nicely featured wall looked amazing. We didn’t even know what the route was. There were however a few gems still to be had on this slab, and amazingly Andrew was able to climb in his worn out old shoes. He made use of a second pair of Rongy’s shoes for a couple of climbs, but they were more painful to wear so he soon went back to his own:
After mopping up a bunch of very fun routes, we stopped for a bite to eat while Rongy started to pluck up the focus and energy needed for the clean wall I had spotted. A bit of a bump up in the grade, but Shades of Grey simply had to be climbed. A tad too much for Andrew but after Rongy led it both Howsie and I followed. It gave everything it looked like it would and more, great climbing on thin but positive holds with an airy and thin top out up the rounded headwall, very cool indeed:
So the day went on, we shifted from one area to the next, making sure that there were lines that suited both parties that could be accessed from the same abseil. Lost World offered a consistent face with all the sculptured gullies and bowls being formed on the top of the granite dome. Here the top was a relatively level and the sculptured gullies were all down the sides. This proved multiple and varied slabs and faces that dropped into vegetated crevices. It was a lovely place to experience, very peaceful other than the bird song that seemed to continue day long. Howsie hinted that it was probably the Golden Whistler:
The rain didn’t come back and while it wasn’t a clear blue sky, it dried off and the temperature was refreshing in comparison to the first two days. Being cooler and having had rain the hay fever seemed to be less aggressive and even Andrew was sounding OK. The clock however didn’t stop ticking and soon we were getting to the point where we had to consider making a move, so for the last lines Howsie picked a trad line while I plumped for a slick slab. Very slick, and one that Kym later told me is a well-known sandbag route. Some might say it was about time I got what I give out:
Between us we sampled eleven routes, giving us a very good taste of what the area has to offer. We all agreed it was a worthy spot and one we would gladly come back too, there are a number of other gems here that would be great to jump on including a few multi-pitch routes. I might try and sneak down here one time with Kym to sample those. The short walk back to the car didn’t take too long and I kept a beady eye out for those elusive orchids but only saw a Cowslip, so no new orchid was found today. Howsie also kept an eye out, and lucky he did as he came across, and managed to only just avoid, a Tiger Snake coiled up on the track:
The bags went in the back of the car, which was packed with all our other gear, as we had packed up the cabin that morning. Three nights had flown past and it was time to head to the next location, but before we could start that journey Rongy took the wheel to get us back to the campsite. Part way down one of the tyres deflated, I was not very impressed. My car is fitted with road tyres not the best for these tracks. But as it happened it wasn’t a puncture and I had a compressor in the back:
Back at the campsite we made use of their compressor to get all the tyres back up to pressure, while the kettle went on. We had a two hour road trip ahead of us and a cuppa was required. Back through Albany and then onto Denmark, almost passing the front door of the first place we stayed, before carrying on to Walpole. We arrived at Coalmine Beach Caravan Park just before the sun set, so we grabbed a beer and headed down to the small beach off the Wilson Inlet where we watched the sky change colour as another great day came to an end:
Before we get to the next day of adventure, I have to put a word out there for Howsie who organised and cooked every evening meal. We had a varied feast each night including European, Indian and Asians dishes and each one was amazing, but the meal this particular night really blew my socks off. Now you may be wondering if this one even came with a glass of vino, but no the boys had brought a cask of port and most nights had a tipple before hitting the sack:
The next day we were very keen to make sure we were up and out early, this location would take a bit more time and energy to get to. Only a short 15min drive from the camp is Mount Claire, one of several tourist locations in the Walpole-Nornalup National Park. We parked up here and shouldered our packs ready for a 7.5km hike to Thompson Cove, as we walked along the trail dwarfed by the mighty Tingle Trees something didn’t sit right with me. But we walked on regardless:
After a short ascent we had a long and very steep downhill, and we all remarked how that would be a killer when we came back. When the descent finally ended we came to the swing bridge over Deep River, and that is when my nagging doubt proved worth having more of a thought about before. There was a carpark just before the bridge and that was where the 7.5km trail started. We had just walked a little over 2km which was fine coming down but going back would prove interesting. No point in crying over spilt milk and we carried on:
The walk took us through varied landscapes and vegetation types, and I was ever hopeful of remedying the lack of a different orchid being found the day before. Then I spied a Forrest Mantis Orchid, which if you would like to know what they look like you’ll have to check out my Stuffed jalapenos post. As I was looking at these Howsie pointed out another flower that had me a little foxed, the leaf made it look like an orchid but also like a succulent and possibly an exotic not native species. It was in fact a Slipper Orchid, and is the only evergreen orchid species in Western Australia:
While there were many of these plants here we only found one which had a flower out, it was a great find by Howsie. Then Rongy called me over to say he found a Mantis Orchid that looked a bit different. I wonder if this was a Butterfly Dragon Hybrid Orchid, as the broad flat labellum of Butterfly Orchids would normally be pointing upwards. No matter that makes two new Orchids and also ones that I have not found before, more than making up for the previous day. After this great find we found no more:
Because of all the sights to see on the way down, plus the flower hunting it took us two and half hours to hike the 9.5km to Thompson’s Cove. And it was worth every step… we were right on the coast with wave washed granite slabs sweeping down into the ocean providing a dramatic backdrop to the crags we came across. In rough weather this place would no doubt be very serious and I wonder what it was like when the front from a few days back had come in. Today, however it was great conditions:
The guide had suggested the climbs were up to 20m high, and as we stood at the base of the main area we looked up in awe. It looked taller and pretty intimidating and everyone was quiet just taking the place in. When we were packing the gear up, and considering the hike, Rongy and I had only packed my twin 50m half ropes and a single rack. We felt that we could double up each half rope, and split the rack. But standing at the base and looking up we realised we may have misjudged this place:
With no one making a sound I took the opportunity and announced that I was going to jump on the crag classic to kick the proceedings off. So I racked up and started up the wonderful layback crack in the open book corner. I had contemplated a beautiful looking finger crack in the wall to the right but decided against. A good job as my legs didn’t even seem ready for the corner, which is four grades easier. It was great fun, even if I didn’t make it sound like it as I worked my way up feeling more and more weary. We also discovered the routes were in fact 25m long so there was no chance of running two lines:
Howsie followed me up, but Rongy was keen on leading it. So we took turns in climbing, Rongy and Andrew went up the classic next, as Howsie and I waited below eyeing up the other lines. Rongy made a soundless ascent and Andrew did really well following up. By the time they were back down Howsie was ready, having dispelled his nervousness and fear as he went up another fine looking crack and flake system. It looked great but had a run out section leading to a nervous few moves high above his gear. Holding it together he carried on and allowed both Rongy and I to enjoy the fine moves with the safety of a rope above us:
Andrew sat that one out. Today it seemed like it would be another nice cool day and no one seemed to be suffering from hay fever. But he needed a bit of time to recover from the first route, which had been right on his limit. Rongy then took the opportunity to try the thin crack I had contemplated as a first lead. It looked amazing and was a tough opposition, but we encouraged him to keep going, and going, and going. It certainly took some time but he made it up eventually, and was justifiably happy:
It was already time for food, and Rongy swept the flies away as Andrew prepared the wraps. Lunches were pretty standard, but this time due to the long walk in we had brought more snacks and fruit. And it was the first day that we got through everything, maybe it was the long hike in or maybe it was just that the week was starting to take its toll and the body was demanding more food intake. Either way we never felt like we were short on food, which was a good thing:
It was time to ease the pace a little and Howsie was happy to lead up the Swinging Detectives, a shorter route but equally fun. It also happened to be the only route on the entire trip for which we used the pink tricam, something that may ring alarm bells for the local South West climbing crew. This time everyone followed him up, and after I got up it was time to refocus myself as I knew what challenge lay ahead. There was a featured wall I had spotted, that looked like we simply had to have a go at and it was my lead next:
It was the last climb of the day, and looked easy at the grade until the first holds were reached and the smeary, rounded nature of them hit you. It was intense, the holds at times were small fingertip smears and pinches and at times they had the slightest edge. All just enough to allow you to balance and slowly work your feet up. Full body tension was required for almost the whole route and there was no margin for error, what a way to end it. Rongy and then Howsie followed up and the focus on their faces said it all, a great way to end the day:
Well kind of end, as we still had a 9.5km walk back out. Just walking up the crag you could see everyone’s legs were heavy and tired. Fortunately, most of the inclines were gentle and forgiving they just seemed to go on for a long time. As we were finishing up and then starting to walk out the sky began to clear> This made for a warmer hike out and we were swamped by flies, most of which just piggy backed on our backpacks. I took point and set a pace, and just kept going. There was no sightseeing this time and we made it back to the swing bridge in just over an hour and half:
The last 2km leg of the hike included the long steep hike almost to the top of Mount Claire, so I offered to go ahead leaving the rest of them and my pack behind. As it was Rongy and I went for it, and without packs it made it more manageable and we made good time completing the return leg in two hours. We drove down to pick Andrew and Howsie up before heading back to the cabin. With tree trunk legs we sat heavily and had a beer, ate lots of cheese and crackers and then Howsie cooked up another feast. We polished it all off not feeling like we had overeaten:
The last morning dawned, above, and then it was time to pack up our third basecamp. Today we were heading home, but before we did that we would stop in at a crag that all four of us have climbed at more than once. Mount Frankland was on the cards but only for one climb, the incredible Hannibal. A brilliant 40m pitch of continually intense slab climbing. It is the one grade 20 that Howsie has added to his 2020 challenge that is outside of the South West, just because it is so worthy:
It had rained hard the night before, it was short and sharp but with 20mm having fallen two days back and another 4mm last night the chances of it being in condition were slim. No matter, we packed the car as if we were going to climb it, Howsie even racked up at the car before we trudged the short walk in. Which is when Rongy spotted another orchid to add to the tally, a lovely look Pink Fairy Orchid. One of many we found on this walk, which made it eight types of orchids on this trip, not bad as we get close to the end of the orchid season:
The great elephant trunk which Hannibal ascends stood proud, and I could see the water marks were the rain from the last few days had come down. The lower potions had green lichen splattered all over it and this would no doubt have soaked up all that moisture. Still Howsie and Rongy had to go and touch the rock to convince themselves of the inevitable, ever hopeful they worked their way to the base and touched the rock. Then came down in silence, it was not to be the mighty Hannibal will have to be climbed on another day:
Seeing we were already out, we did at least walk round the base of Mount Frankland. It’s not a huge walk but it is very beautiful, with towering trees and varied undergrowth interspersed with great vistas out across the tree covered peaks and valleys. We found more of the Trigger Flowers, which Rongy really liked, and Howsie tried to trick the little flower into thinking an insect was on the lower petals. When this happens the top petals flick down and place pollen on the back of the insect. As it moves from flower to flower this repeat action results in pollination occurring:
While we didn’t climb up the south face of Mount Frankland, we did climb the 300 plus steps on the tourist approach to the summit. The big hike from the day before was taking its toll and my legs could feel it, especially as I made my way up the last few flights of steps. Um maybe the sensible thing would have been to leave my pack at the base. After taking in the view across the towering karri, jarrah and tingle trees it was time to head to the car, make a final brew and stash the cab with snacks for the three hour trip back to Bunbury. I wonder if we will do it all again in 2028 and if so where we will go:
Route tally:
- Monkey Rocks (Saturday 7 November)
2km hike round trip
The Measure of a Man (13) CH/KS, RD/AM
The Naked Ape (13) RD/AM, KS/CH
Monkey Business (18) CH/KS, RD
Cheeky Monkey (16) RD/AM, KS/CH
Monkey Puzzle (15) KS/RD/CH
Chimpanology (14) KS/CH
New Route (18/19) RD/AM, KS/CH
- Gibraltar Rock (Sunday 8 November)
3km round trip
Raven (15 5P) CH/AM (alt)
Dockyard Wall (17 5P) RD/KS (alt)
Painters and Dockers (15 2P) CH/AM
Dinosaur Jnr (18 4P) RD/KS (alt), CH (18 P1&2 only (TR))
- Tombstone (Monday 9 November)
6km hike round trip
Apollo (15) KS/AM
Trident (3P 19) KS/AM
The Key (P1 only 17) RD/CH
Groovenomics (21) CH, RD, KS
OK Corral (21) RD, CH
Hex Marks the Spot (18 P1&2 only) CH/RD/KS (alt)
Zeus (19) RD/CH/KS
Apollo (15) RD/CH
- Albany (wet and windy day) (Tuesday 10 November)
The Gap to get wet
Stoney Hill walk
Peak Head walk
Earl of Spencer for pies
- Lost World (Wednesday 11 November)
1.5km hike round trip
Arcana (14) RD/KS, CH/AM
Big Bang (14) CH/AM, KS/RD
Meridian (17) RD/KS, CH, AM (TR)
Shadow Rising (18) KS/RD/CH
Shadow Boxer (15) CH/AM, KS/RD
Shades of Grey (22) RD/CH/KS
Pussy Galore (19) RD, KS/CH
Me Fein (17) CH/AM
Loves Labour’s Lost (15) KS/RD
Monkey Nuts (12) CH/AM
A Prayer for the Trying (22) KS/RD
- Thompson’s Cove (Thursday 12 November)
19km hike round trip on the Deep River followed by Nuyts Trail
Hey Joe (18) KS/CH, RD/AM
Totally Total (18) CH/RD/KS
Hi-Wire (22) RD/CH/KS
Swinging Detectives (17) CH/AM/KS/RD
Under Cover (22) KS/RD/CH
- Mount Frankland (Friday 13 November)
2km hike round and 300 plus steps up Mount Frankland
Sandbagged 