The Wombles

Being on holiday for two weeks I was keen to get out a couple of times a week.  So I put the word out and found myself heading out with Rongy, Craig and Mikey on Sunday 29^th December.  I had started this trip off by chatting to Mikey asking if he was keen for another climb before he headed back to Queensland.  When he said yes the next obvious question being where have you not climbed, and the decision was made that we would head to Rumpoles Rocks at the southern end of Moses Rocks:

The conditions were not ideal, a 4m swell with moderate westerlies.  The sky was overcast and the waves were crashing messily to shore.  Large amounts of saltwater spray were being carried by the wind directly at us.  You could taste the salt when you licked your lips and could only imagine what it would do to our gear if left on it long enough.  Some of our rock along the south west coast gets hopelessly slippery in these conditions.  However, the granite at Rumpoles is that bit coarser that the main area of Moses Rocks and so we pressed onwards:

I paired with Mikey, as I mentioned he hadn’t climbed here before so I let him charge on.  Craig as seen above was still texting Oyukha to let her know where we were climbing.  She had been intending to walk down with their two boys to meet us.  However, this place is not very kid friendly and so he wanted to warn her not to try and make it to us.  This gave Mikey a head start and he was topping out on Hot and Spicy way before the other two had touched rock:

Rongy took the sharp end and I climbed alongside him as he took on one of my routes, Hexed.  It was living up to its name, and the conditions were not helping.  The move off the blocks need some thought and a bit of faith in slopey hand holds and not much more than friction for footholds.  You can see the waves crashing into the rocks in the background, making for a great atmosphere.  It had him stumped for a while but eventually he unlocked the sequence, but not before I was topping out and we were walking back down:

Mikey was not going slow and he was charging up Chillies and Garlic next, a very inviting looking hanging corner system.  In view that I have led all these routes, several times, I had offered Mikey the chance to take every lead.  Also as may be evident from my recent posts I have been getting out quite a lot, and I need to be mindful of a few injuries I am carrying.  They are easier to manage while on second, so in a way we both win from the arrangement:

For Craig’s first lead, having been put slightly on edge by the route that Rongy had just made him second, he chose to follow Mikey’s first climb.  A gentle warm up and a climb that doesn’t throw any nasty tricks at you.  You might notice that as Craig was going up this we were already back down and Mikey was waiting patiently to access the left trending flake of Yogurt.  While Craig was heading up the corner to the right Mikey’s line was to take him leftwards and over the blocks:

We then moved to the right hand end of the crag which has three fun lines that require you to negotiate a low roof.  Each being quite different in their style.  Craig meanwhile belayed Rongy up Chillies and Garlic.  Every so often as the sets of waves reached their peak and water would crash over the rocks that were protecting us from the fully fury of today’s ocean.  Craig didn’t seem too phased as he was coated in more than usual salt spray, as the remains of the wave washed down the large boulders:

Mikey was meanwhile heading up another of my creations.  Finger Licking, not surprisingly requires some finger locks to get you over the rooflet and onto the upper shelf.  It is probably the most forgiving technique that is require of the three lines up this wall, and didn’t pose too many problems for Mikey.  He also scooted up the flake on the southern side of the buttress above.  Giving it some good knocks to check just how solid it may be, and then realising if you want gear then you have to make use of it anyway:

As Craig came down for his second lead, up Jugs Galore, Rongy had suggested that Mikey try No Spinach for Popeye.  There was a scheme being hatched here and he was upfront about it, the idea was to slow Mikey down as he was one climb ahead.  This route is written up as “a true thrutch”, it requires body wedging and jamming techniques that are unique for Moses Rocks and the area we climb generally.  It worked and while Mikey was working out the tricks not only had Craig topped out but Rongy had followed him:

Rongy decided that if he was going to convince Mikey to try this line he too should give it a go.  In fact he confessed to enjoying this route!  He showed off his jamming styles that he learnt during his travels climbing in various countries, including China where there was not much else but jamming cracks.  It still looked less than comfortable or secure, as the wide flared crack provided no features to make use off other than friction.  Interestingly all four of us tackled it with a slightly different approach, all of which were successful:

Mikey was chomping at the bit to hit the third line through the roof, Olive Oil. This one requires mantling as well as some lay-backing on a rounded edge.  This slowed Mikey down as he figured out the best way to do it, which was not doubt hampered by tiring arms.  In fact as he climbed the headwall above the roof he got so pumped he wanted to rest, but we wouldn’t let him so he had do down climb to shake out.  After he watched Craig tackle the start of Finger Licking he jumped back on and polished of his route:

The frantic action was coming to a close.  Mikey jumped on Jug Galore, which I had at the time thought was route number eight but was in fact route number seven.  Rongy was keen to finish on Olive Oil, as he feels that the top headwall has the best climbing at Rumpoles Rock.  It certainly provides the best photo opportunities.  So with that it was a tally of seven routes for each party, and we were all happy with what we had climbed.  The weather hadn’t changed and the grey sky occasionally sent rain on us while the sea spray was never ending:

While we coiled wet ropes and racked up the wet and salty gear, we realised that it was only 9:15.  We had only been at the crag just under three hours, but despite the time we were content and happy to make tracks.  Rumpoles Rocks had been great fun and the conditions hadn’t dampened the experience, if anything it had made it even better!  Also before we had realised what the time was Craig had already messaged ahead to say we were getting ready to walk out, meaning that Oyukha and the boys would be waiting for us:

It was timed perfectly and they had just reached the boulders as we appeared.  So we rock hopped the last few bounders together before the walk back on the beach.  The wet sand was relatively firm underfoot making it easier to walk over, which we were pleased about.  Walking through soft sand after a mornings climb can feel hard work.  Henry and Charlie had been doing their bit for the environment collecting all the rubbish they could carry, just like the Wombles that supposedly live in Wimbledon Common:

I’m pleased to report that I did wash my rack and rope when I got home.  While my gear has quite often come back wet from rain, today’s conditions were probably the worst I’ve been in for sea spray.  So I felt it warranted a wash.  Back in Peppy Beach the sun was shining so what with the early finish the rack and rope was washed, dried and put away by the end of the day and ready for the next adventures: