Take rope!

This is a long one and I make no excuses, in fact I took a bunch of images out as I typed away so it could have been longer!  So best make yourself a brew if you intend to read the whole thing…  For the climbers amongst you if you are keen to check out the grades of the routes or any more details you can find the mini-guide here Cape Le Grand Rock Climbing Guide:

For many years I have eyed off climbing at Cape Le Grand, however being an eight hour drive it has always alluded me despite a couple of attempts to organise a trip there.  I was therefore chuffed when Wiggins mentioned he had some time off and suggested a five day trip down that way.  We opened up the offer and Howsie was also keen, but could only make four days so travelled separately.  And so it was that last Saturday Wiggins and I rolled past Frenchman’s Peak as we approached our destination:

We had a couple of false starts from home, and added a couple of stops along the way making it a long day but by close to six o’clock we rolled into the campsite.  A sign suggested all campers read the signs, we took one look at all the signs and information and decided it was a better to get the tent up before darkness descended.  We only just managed that and then sat down with a welcome Wiggin’s special homebrew and waited for Howsie to rock up.  He eventually made it an hour after us and joined us for a drink before we hit the sack for an early night:

It must have been about 8:30’ish that night Howsie thought someone was trying to get into the cars.  So I clambered out to be blinded by the head torch of the camp warden who promptly told us the signs we were supposed to read included checking in on arrival.  As you’ll see from the image above you really have to hunt to find that information, and besides the campsite was booked months back.  Then it was back to bed and the next morning I was up at 5 making a tea, the campsite was sleepy so we quietly pottered about with a backdrop of Lucky Bay:

After a cup of tea and good breakfast we sorted the gear and shouldered our packs.  One of the attractions of the place was that the majority climbing was only 15min walk away, so once you park up the car can in theory stay put.  There are four climbing locations and we went to the closet first.  With packs on and not really knowing how far it may be the walk up the hill felt longer than 15min, but soon we were scrambling down the gully to the base of the cliff.  Here we were greeted by the funkiest caterpillar I have ever seen:

This first cliff had four lines on it that we wanted to have a bash at before heading back for a bite to eat.  The five day trip allowed us three full days to climb and we were in no great rush to bash the climbs out in a hurry.  Also Wiggins had decided that he wouldn’t climb that much and wanted to take the opportunity to do a lot more filming than he would normally be able to.  That did mean we also had to wait for him to set up, slowing us down and allowing us to take in the magnificent vistas and close up details such as the caterpillar:

I took the first lead, which was one of only a handful of traditional lines in the areas.  Most of them are bolted and that has been a bone of contention as the people who bolted them didn’t seek permission from the authorities.  Fortunately the WA climbing association smoothed things out and managed to arrange an agreement that allowed the existing climbing areas to remain open for others, but also put in a place a ban on any more bolting.  It’s interesting how one of the main culprits for bolting was also an active member of the climbing association:

I led up Parallel Cracks which is located in the Silhouette Area, a fun crack system that had a thin bouldery start followed by fine cracks that required a mix of jamming and some funky side pulls.  One of the flakes came off in my hand, just above where Wiggins is in the image above.  Fortunately I stayed on the rock despite the size of the block in my hand.  Better still I didn’t drop the rock when it first came off so Howsie, who was belaying me, wasn’t put in any danger.  Despite the close call it was a great line to start the climbing adventures on:

For the next climb it was just Howsie and I while Wiggins did his best to imitate a mountain goat as he scampered about taking footage.  Before Howsie got going on Single Dimension he managed to get stung by a bee.  It seems that I managed to pull the sting out of his cheek before the bee had managed to inject all of the venom.  We looked round but it was not obvious where the bee had come from but had a strange feeling there may be a hive or something similar about.  Soon enough Howsie was focused on rock and all memory of bees were beehind him:

While we were climbing away Wiggins was getting ready by setting up his Wirel, if you look closely you’ll see his camera suspended on the wire that stretched from the boulders to the top of the crag.  He was taking maximum opportunity to use all of his many gadgets, and we are quietly hopefully that his video of the trip will have some stunning footage.  Howsie and I kept checking in with him to make sure he didn’t miss out on a chance to follow up any of the lines we were slowly but steadily enjoying bagging:

Next up was Blown Away, it had a wonderful technical section with some fine balance moves and a great strong rock over to top it off.  As I climbed it I had the broken hold from the first climb in my mind, knowing that the rock quality can be dicey puts you in a whole new frame of mind.  Howsie’s first line had been a pretty solid slab but this climb used may small flakes and features, indeed many of them had the tell-tale signs of being glued to make sure they didn’t come off.  A practice that should be used way more sparsely than had been on this climb:

There was one line left that we were interested in on this crag, and as soon as we had got there I could see that Howsie was eyeing it off.  Silhouette followed the arête of the next buttress and then the steep wall above.  It didn’t look too bad from below but felt very off balance once you started up the rounded arête.  This was the climb that Wiggins was keen to get some good footage off and with a back drop like this you can see why.  It was such fun that even Wiggins couldn’t resist but follow us up:

As we packed the gear we could feel a few drops of rain, and out to sea the clouds had merged into the horizon a sure sign of a band of rain coming.  So we stashed our gear under a boulder and headed back to camp thinking it was time for lunch.  Without packs on we felt light as we walk back down the hill, despite the dark cloudy day the water in Lucky Bay looked a pristine aqua colour.  The beach is well knowing for it’s very fine white brilliant sand, the reflection of the sand helps make the water look so blue and also squeaks as you walk on it:

We got back to camp to find it was only 10:30, I guess that is what happens when you have early starts.  We decided we would still get the lunch stuff out and of course put the kettle on for another cup of tea.  In fact Wiggins thinks he has never drunk so much tea before.  Now one of his ideas for the video, and one Howsie or I were particularly unsure about, was for us to recall the climbs we did and talk and act through the moves.  It probably looked like we were doing Tia chi, and we were pleased that we didn’t see anyone else in the campsite to watch us:

We wandered back up the hill and this time were aiming for the “pier le resistance” of the area, the mighty Kangaroo Rock.  For this crag we left all the gear on top and had to abseil in and then climb out.  It still didn’t feel massively exposed as it was not directly above the water.  It was however closer and the longer we stayed the more the sound of the waves crashing into the boulders below became the ambient background noise, something we almost didn’t hear.  I started the afternoon proceedings on the steeper wall with the very fine L’Esperence:

We decided to try this wall first not because it was the steepest, but due to having the easiest grade sport route to kick things off.  That was only true for one route and so Howsie was thrown into the furnace with the next line of The Roaring Forties.  This line had the thinnest start of any route we did, with the first five meters of so requiring you to climb with your fingernails and using equally small holds to smear your feet on.  It certainly made you trust your feet and also put behind you the thought that the rock quality may result in holds peeling off:

This route was epic, with a great steep finish in an amazing position.  Wiggins had been hanging off the rap line filming as Howsie led it, using his Gimble to make sure the camera was kept steady for good footage.  We were certainly getting a good education in filming equipment on this trip!  The climb looked so good that Wiggins couldn’t resist jumping on it, allowing me to get another rare image of him climbing on this trip.  Not quite as rare as one of me, which is more by judgement than luck on my part:

The next lines jump up in grade on the steep wall and they looked a little scary after the last line, so we decided to rap down the southern face which is a slab.  It had a great length, close to 30m, allowing you to really get stuck in the route and not get that feeling that it is all over way to quickly.  As I landed at the base I spied a bush cockroach, who was obviously less than pleased with our presence.  We weren’t sure if he was going to spray us with something smelly, but looking at the image now it’s almost like he has a sacrificial bottom, as it looks like a head:

I was checking out the slab as I was rapping down, not really knowing which line was which.  So when I told Howsie which line I liked the look of it was a bit surprising to see the grade was the same as the one on the steep wall we had decided may be too scary.  That said I do enjoy slab climbing and so set off up Dances on Fires.  The rock changes from fine grained slick smear holds, to shiny square cut quartz crystals to flakes, under-clings and pockets and finishing up a crimpy wall.  It was awesome but man my fingertips were screaming as I topped out:

We decided there was time for one more route for the day and so rapped back down and this time Wiggins came down with us to get some footage from the base.  There She Blows had a very cruxy start that proved problematic for all of us.  Wiggins mono-pod proving just the tool to get a closeup of Howsie focusing hard on the start moves.  It again had a mixture of rock features making it continually varied and interesting.  By now however Howsie and my fingertips were starting to feel it and we knew it would be sensible to stop after this one:

All around us there were great boulders, caves and slabs.  The whole coastline seemed a haven for rock climbing.  That said there didn’t seem to be too much traditional climbing on offer so the area will never be further developed.  Supposedly one of the reasons that the authorities didn’t like the bolting, other than not being told it was happening, was that they reckoned the bolts were too visible and detracted from the natural beauty of the area.  Something I’ll remark on again later:

Wiggins went up next leaving me to wander about and take in the views and also work some new angles for some shots.  Despite the image above showing that the afternoon had fined up with blue sky and sunshine we were climbing in the shade and the wind was getting cold as the afternoon drew on.  By the time I was tied in and ready to climb my muscles were stiffening up and my toes and finger tips didn’t seem quite ready.  They were soon forced into action and I quickly scampered up the face in search of the sun and warmth:

We were going to come back to Kangaroo Rock, as there was unfinished business to tend.  So the gear was once again stashed under the boulders before we strolled back down the track to the campsite.  There was some concern about possible rain that night but we decided to risk it, and besides the bags were stuffed under a boulder so should be OK.  The campsite is behind the ride on the right and overlooks the amazingly blue waters of Lucky Bay.  With each trip up and down the path the suggested time of 15min for the walking in seemed more reasonable:

Lucky Bay is well knowing through social media as the place to see kangaroos lazing on the white sands of the beach.  As we walked back to camp the numerous times we did we certainly could see them there, and every time we did they had a mob of people flocked about them looking for that idyllic picture.  We however never went down in search of that image, there were plenty of roos all about and they were obviously not worried about us.  They hopped through the campsite without a care and even posed at the right moments:

It was another early night and we were all feeling the days activities.  So after a hearty meal, thanks once again to Lisa who prepared a bunch of meals for us to take, we had another amazing Wiggins homebrew and then hit the sack.  The camp warden never returned, but I did wake up in the night needing to go to the toilet.  It was then that I noticed I had picked up a tick on my chest, and did what they tell you not to do and pulled it straight out.  Fortunately I managed to pull the entire head out so there were no bits that might become infected left in me:

It was another early morning and this time it was a clearer sky, making it both cold and also very specky.  I got the tea on the go and once the whistle of the kettle could be heard Howsie stirred, soon followed by Wiggins.  They missed the best part of the morning show, so Wiggins asked if I could be sure to wake him up early for the next morning so he could film it.  Soon the eggs, onions and mushrooms were cooking and this time we piled on some salmon fillets as well, the menu had been chosen to make sure we had our fair share of protein to help us keep going:

We headed back to Kangaroo Rock at a slightly later time, this time having two cups of tea.  We didn’t feel like we needed to head out too early, which is very unlike most of our trips when we crammed in as much time on rock as humanly possible.  This time we ambled along enjoying where we were and looking about at the plants and animals.  There hadn’t been any rain over night but there was a dew, fortunately the bags were fine and the blue sky meant that any moisture would soon burn off.  So one more time we headed past the balancing rock:

The crag is just past the balancing rock, an easy and permanent natural feature to guide us and future climbers.  It is also one of those things that you see and go how did that ever happen?!  Back on top of Kangaroo Rock Wiggins put himself in seemingly precarious positions as he set his Wirel up to capture us climbing up the slab.  Howsie and I stayed on top deciding we would wait until he was set up before going down to the base which was once again in the shade and promised to be cold:

When we rapped down Wiggins wasn’t quite ready so we wander further round the crag to check out a line that we were tempted with, but a limited intimidated by due to the grade.  This steep crack looked wicked.  Getting to it however looked tricky and poorly protected, at least it did from the ground.  We both liked the look of Ultimate Question, but both decided the answer to that question was that we would leave it for a future trip.  There were still more manageably graded lines awaiting us making it an easy decision to pass it by, this time:

We once again warmed up sensibly, taking the fun corner crack called Windjammer.  Another traditional line and a good choice.  Bigger holds meaning that the finger tips had a chance to warm up before being punished on the smaller and sharper holds.  Howsie had brought with him a climbers balm designed to aid skin healing.  We had both used it several times the night before and it seemed to have helped out, or so it seemed as the day started.  The real test was yet to come, but they even survive that so I need to get some of that balm for myself:

This morning Wiggins was content filming and so left Howsie and I to keep rapping down and climbing up.  He kept the Wirel up which was perfectly positioned for the first three climbs up the slab allowing him to film us from above with a great backdrop down to the ocean.  While it was warming up nicely on top allowing Wiggins to wander about in a t-shirt we were still wrapped up.  Howsie, did however shed the traditional gear and replace it with a bunch of quick draws as it was once more time to jump on the sport lines.

Howsie made his way up yet another fine long and sustained slab route..  Verlaine was similar to the last route he had climbed the day before, but this one felt more sustained and technical.  It also kept going from the start to the finish, and certainly tested how well the climbers balm had healed our skin.  There was a section of strange plate like crystals that stuck out horizontally from the rock.  The fear of loose rock was far from his mind as he confidentially pulled down on them, while trying not to be put off by the camera hovering above his head:

There was one more route on the slab we had in mind, this one however had a scope and flake feature that provided some varied climbing and the need for a move of faith to stand on top of the flake, with room for only one good foothold and with nothing for your hands.  A few delicate moves are then required to get off the flake and back onto a similar band of intriguing horizontal crystal features.  The top felt like it eased off a bit too much making the climbing less sustained but we both still enjoyed the Flying Kiwis:

We had in mind to get one more route in before it was time for lunch.  Howsie was torn, there were two lines that he had his eye on and eventually he decided to go for the line that we had avoided on the steep face the day before.  No Name was a Shane Richardson route, and he is known for putting up bold lines so it was brave of Howsie to go for it.  He started confidently and never looked back.  Being back on the steep stuff the holds got bigger, it wasn’t quite the jug fest the guides promised but it was all there and even the glaring sun didn’t stop him:

This time we sorted the gear and packed it all up ready to be hauled back down to camp.  On top of the crag it was warming up and we shed our warmer gear, the bags felt heavy on our back as we made our way to the main track.  Just before we got there we came across another funky looking insect, well two of them.  Hopefully they were not put off by us poking our noses and cameras at them, and we left them to their business saying good bye to Kangaroo Rock, for now at least:

Before we headed back down the path we wandered a bit further along it where it swung back round so we could get a view of the crag.  We had been climbing on the biggest face you can see and the slab to the right of the arête in the shade.  It is hard to see how the bolts on this face take away from the view that the hikers have from the path that they take.  Wiggins had taken some footage from here and it was then that he realised he will need to expand his filming arsenal and invest in a good quality telephoto lens for situations just like this:

Back at camp it really felt like it was warming up, so much so that we set the tarp up to provide a bit of shade.  There was a bit of a breeze and that helped but the sun had a sting to it.  That didn’t stop the kettle going on and the customary cup of tea was made.  Once cooled down enough it went down very well with wraps filled with salad, cheese and tuna.  It was the same lunch each day but it didn’t get boring, there is something about being outdoors and active that makes you appreciate the food more than usual:

Seeing we had climbed all the routes we felt that we wanted to try at the two close crags it was time to drive 6km down the road to the far end of Lucky Bay and then hoick up the path to the crest and another set of boulders.  The car thermometer indicated it was close to the mid-twenties and it felt it.  The packs were heavy, the air was still and there was not a hint of shade on the walk up that hill.  After all the slab climbing my legs were feeling it and the incline wasn’t helping matters:

Mississippi Boulders are inland and high up, and the routes were in full sun.  Still we had hauled our gear up the hill so had to climb something.  A number of the lines didn’t look that inviting, so we plumped for the more consistent and dare I say easy looking ones.  In truth it was probably that they were not as stand out as what we had just experienced, and in their own right were probably good fun.  Still we were tiring and it was hot so I jumped on Hole Kaboodle which provided some exciting stances and moves:

Howsie must have been tiring too as he decided against the stronger lines that were on offer and plumped for Lizard Corner.  At the base of the climb there were a couple of skinks that kept poking their heads out to check what we were doing, and I spent more time watching them then Howsie as he inched his way up seemingly body jamming the corner.  Wiggins had found a nice shady spot under some shrubs from which to film us, and he was happy not to follow the first line but liked the look of the second:

While I have played down the routes on this boulder the view from on top was great.  There also seemed to be a breeze that kept us cool on top.  You can just make out Lucky Bay on the right in the distance.  It was interesting that there really weren’t any trees to speak off, the scrub round here was all very low and sparse in nature.  There were patches with loads of flowers that added a sparkle, as spring is starting to come in, but the vast majority of it looked like a low sea of green:

We had already decided that we would only bother with the two climbs here, so once Wiggins had made it up and sat atop to enjoy the scenery we made our way down the boulder.  This required a scramble down a slanting ramp with a couple of sketchy feeling moves, which only Howsie made look easy.  Then it was back to the bags and time for a snack before we walked back down.  It was interesting that there are a couple of fully bolted climbs on this boulder, yet there is no belay and/or rap anchor:

I mentioned that there were no trees to speak off, well that is not entirely true.  They are just all very short.  It seems that if they try to grow taller they start to grow out sideways to survive the windy weather that this area is known to receive.  There were lots of examples of these trees and other than them there really wasn’t much shade given.  This area is probably very harsh in both winter and summer alike.  A place to visit in the shoulder seasons for sure and even then the weather is supposed to be very localised and fickle:

As we drove back to the camp I suggested to Howsie that seeing he had to leave the next morning he might want to consider one more route.  This line stands by itself on a lonely crag and wasn’t too far from the campsite.  He was it two minds about it and I’m not sure if I pushed him into it, but he final said yes.  So we racked up at the camp site and walked back to the crag ready to jump onto the line as soon as we got three.  There was a sense of urgency to get going.  Atmosfear was great fun but we only just managed to complete it as the light faded:

Back at camp and Wiggins had another surprise for us, it was time for Howsie’s interview!  So he got settled in one of our luxury beach chairs, had a beer in his hand to calm his nerve as the spotlight shone on him and Wiggins started his interrogation, oops I mean questioning to coax out conversationally discussion of his experiences both past and present.  Strictly focusing on climbing, of course.  As you’ll see we were rugged up again the night was clear and we were promised another cold night with a blanket of stars above us:

While the director and actor were hard at it, I got dinner on the go.  We decided on the roast veggies and steak (salmon for me), Lisa really had outdone herself this time.  Not only were meal times easy and quick, but so very yummy with three varied dishes full of flavour and abundant in quantity.  While I may have mentioned it above I have to say a huge thank you Lisa not just from me but also Wiggins and Howsie.  Dinner was served as the interview was coming to a close, everything seemed to be timed to perfection today:

As promised the morning before I woke Wiggins up at 5am, the light was starting to glow as the day was coming to life.  A thin sliver of the moon was still in the sky, there wasn’t much light from the moon during the night, which helped make the stars stand out that much more impressively.  But this morning the moon stuck out in stark contrast to the morning hues above the hills on the far side of Lucky Bay.  We had certainly picked our camp spot well, being on the higher ground and not having an obscured view:

Howsie was due to head off today, but he decided he would enjoy the morning spectacle from the comfort of his sleeping bag first.  Meanwhile a rugged up Wiggins films the changing light and also recorded the sound of the dawn bird song.  Meanwhile, you’ve guessed it the kettle was on and a welcome steaming cup of tea was soon ready to warm us from the inside out.  As the morning show came to an end everyone was up and we started to pack ready for the day, Wiggins and I to climb and Howsie to drive:

Breakfast was cooked and we sat with a second cuppa to eat our food as the morning sun put on another show for us, a clear ring was formed in the high cirrus clouds.  This happens when there are ice crystals in these high clouds, and the light from the sun refracts through them.  The morning was certainly cool, so it was a little surprising when Howsie just about ready to head off stated that he would first go for a swim.  Sure enough he ran down the beach and was soon running back, claiming to have spent a full 50 second submersed:

By the time Howsie was on the road and we had walked back up to Kangaroo Rock it was warming up, so much so that we were already in t-shirts.  I had managed to convince Wiggins that he should have a bash at leading a couple of routes.  The first he was keen to jump on was L’Esperance, the first line we had done on Kanagroo Rock.  It was a good choice being steep, having great holds, no sign of loose rock and nicely sustained.  For the local SW climbers you may be interested to know the style of this route was very reminiscent of Bob’s Hollow:

We then packed the bags and made a leisurely stroll back to Atmosfear, which I forgot to mention before was another trad line.  This time we didn’t go via the campsite but scrambled across the rocky headland taking our time to check out the features such as this strangely shaped boulder, perfectly carved amphitheatres and a variety of other natural wonders.  Clouds were coming in overhead making the light less than desirable but Wiggins still set his camera up on a tripod to film the next climb:

The climb gets its name from the first couple of moves, as can be seen the first few steps are across a gap with lots of exposure.  It’s a fun line that I was happy to have a second go on, at least this time we wouldn’t be running out of light.  After the big step it’s a walk along the ledge so in a way was a little disappointing that it wasn’t a bit more sustained, still the position certainly makes it a worthwhile line.  Plus the light was too low last night for Wiggins to film it so we had to do it again today and he even wore a bright t-shirt for the occasion:

The crux is at the very end, and while the guide suggested it was 30m in length if you include knots and getting to good trad anchors my 40m rope was at full stretch.  Last night Howsie stretched it, but today Wiggins placed a few less strategically located runners to maximise the rope available.  You may question why we only had a 40m rope for such a location… well early on in our organising we had agreed Wiggins would bring his 60m rope.  Obviously he forgot about that conversation and in a way it was only by luck that I had thrown in my 40m (phew):

I thoroughly enjoyed the second lap on this route, and even broke a foothold at the very end.  Quite fitting that I had a hold come off on me on the first and last line!  We then packed the gear for good and walked back to the camp for a bite to eat and yet another cuppa.  As we approached the main track Wiggins froze as a small striped snake made its way lazily across the track right in front of him.  It was only as thick as a pencil and a foot or so long, so probably a juvenile.  You can only just make it out in the leaf litter as it worked it’s way under the shrubs:

With the gear packed away and much lighter packs we then drove back out to Frenchman’s Peak, which we had passed on the way in.  Both Wiggins and I were intrigued by the hollow cave that looked to be just underneath the summit.  If you didn’t notice it you will have to look back at the very first image.  Our original intention was to walk up it on the last day before we drove out, but we were both very happy with what we had climbed so decided that we would spend the afternoon checking it out which also allowed us to spend as much time as we wanted:

The sign said a 3hr return trip, and the carpark was full so we were expecting a crowd up there.  As we followed the trail markers we found it a little ironic how we could see the markers nearly the whole way up the ridge, when the climbing bolts were not even visible.  As we made our way up we came across yet another interesting bug.  This furry whatever-it-is crawled across the path and we stopped to watch it, while one of the earlier hikers walked past us going back down not noticing it even though we were both crouched down checking it out:

We passed a few others walking back down, as we went up with our legs let us know that we had certainly worked them.  Then we reached the cave and it was an impressive sight.  The rock was full of hollows and ledges and swallows were flying all around.  The sun had come out on the walk up but inside the cave it was a wonderful cool temperature.  Wiggins set about putting his Wirel up while I laid back and watched the birds fly about, seemingly playing chasey in pairs and every so often disappearing into a hollow in the cavernous roof:

It was very relaxing and we spent close to an hour in there, the swallows made great silhouette shots and I took way too many images.  Meanwhile Wiggins was getting some footage as his camera travelled the entire length of the cave, you can see it in the bottom right corner.  Amazingly the whole time we were there no one else came in, it was very peaceful.  It seemed the only sound being the swallows and their chicks crying out to be fed from their well-hidden nests above us:

We then walked up the final leg to the summit, and took in the panoramic 360 view.  Below is the peak of Cape Le Grande with white sandy bays on both sides.  It is easy to see why Lucky Bay is such a popular place to stay and you need to book in advance to secure a camp spot.  Even though it is not the school holidays the campsite was always busy.  While we were sat atop Wiggins then collared me suggesting this would be a great place for my interview.  Damn I thought he may have forgotten, and for once I could not hide behind the camera:

We finally ambled back down, and didn’t come across a sole not on top or the whole of the way back down.  What a stroke of luck!  The slabby granite we were walking down had great patterns created by the water that had eroded flow paths leaving a mosaic of dark grey and light brown with a line of bright orange.  We took our time on the final leg through the bush looking at a myriad of flowers in bloom but I won’t include any images of them in this email as it is getting pretty long and will instead wait to see if Wiggins includes them in his video:

While we had spent 3hrs on the peak, over half of that had been spent on the top and it had been time very well spent.  It was still early when we got down so we popped into Thistle Cove to check it out.  The main reason being that we spied some big boulders in the carpark, which were impressive… but then we found a whole stack of them on a rocky ledge.  The mind was willing but the body was weak so we didn’t get the climbing shoes out, instead admired the rock architecture and thought when we do come back a crash pad needs to be thrown in:

Thistle Cove itself was magical, like Lucky Bay but without the people (while we were there).  The crystal clear water and white sand was so inviting.  While we did paddle and get our feet wet, we didn’t try a Howsie and go for a dip.  As we walked out a coach rocked up and 30 odd people pilled down the walk path to the beach, we had timed things perfectly yet again!  Finally we headed to the car and made our way back to camp.  The idea being to pack up as much as we could tonight ready for an early start in the morning:

With just about everything ready to pack into the car, we had dinner ready just in time for the last rays of light.  It didn’t take much to clear away and pack it all in the car so it wouldn’t be wet if there was dew in the morning.  We then had a couple more beers and had our last shower, yes even though this is a national park campsite has hot showers, cooking facilities and the poshest drop toilets you will ever see with tiled floors!  It’s not the usual campsite that we stay in, but at least the car won’t be smelly on the way home:

In the morning I was up and making the tea at 5am and this time Wiggins was up and out at the same time.  There was just enough cloud in the sky to promise a great sunrise, so we took our teas and went down to the bay and watched the morning wake up.  More filming and endless images were taken, that said we also took to time to site atop the seaweed rack and supped the hot tea.  No one else came down to the beach, we could see some people on the rocky headlands but we were left alone:

We waited until the sun poked its head over the hills before heading back.  Unlike England it doesn’t take long in Australia for the sun to rise and fall, and if you are not quick you can almost miss it.  The reds, pinks and oranges gave way to yellows and then just the bright glare of the sun stretching across the bay.  Time to head back to the car, pack the tent that was perfectly dry, make a cup of tea for the road and head out.  We had to take it easy to avoid the roos on the road as we left the park and then it was time to put the foot down:

With the earlier start we made good time, with only two stops on the way back and at each of those the body didn’t want to respond when we first tried to get out of the car.  We stopped in Ravenswood for a late breakfast but more importantly so Wiggins could stock up on sugary treats from the very colourful lolly shop, and then in Collie to fill up rather than risk running out of fuel only just before we rolled into Bunbury.  After dropping Wiggins off I was back in Peppy Beach in time to collect Elseya as she got off the school bus:

I can see another trip down this way happening, both just for a camp with Lisa as she would love it and also maybe for another climb, but if for the latter reason we will definitely need to take rope!