The forecast was looking good with a few clear calm days leading into and continuing for the weekend. So not to miss out on an opportunity after being holed up in the shed for the last few weeks I put the word out. The original plan was for some south coast adventures with Kym in the amazing surrounds of Albany, but that didn’t pan out this time round. So it was a local trip, which worked out well as Wiggins was back from the mines. We plumped for fun stuff at the main faces of Wilyabrup:
It was a lazy start and we didn’t get to the crag until 11am, where we met Mark someone we had only acquainted ourselves with through technology until then. With light winds and the sun on our backs it was very pleasant indeed. Not surprisingly with a break in the weather there were a number of cars at the carpark, and several parties down at the crag. Wiggins headed up Hope with just a set of wires and tri-cams to get us warmed up, not that we intended on doing anything harder. I then checked out Verbosity and deemed it was dry enough to go:
The image above shows that the limestone sections of Verbosity were dripping, which was Mark’s undoing. On a separate note as we were walking down from Hope we passed the couple who had been climbing nearby. Both Wiggins and I tried to engage with them but got mere silence or curt one word responses with no eye contact being made. Then as we walked across to our next line, we passed another couple doing laps up Steel Wall. They were more friendly and I had a bit of a chat with them, restoring my faith in my ability to communicate:
Despite Mark’s one slip we all really enjoyed Verbosity, it certainly felt a bit more thrutchy this time. On lead I completely wedged myself into the wide crack. The cam placements felt less than ideal. As I wriggled the gear deep into the crack I rained fragments of limestone on Wiggins. After the crack the face climbing above was in great condition, making it feel like the pace eased off considerably. As we walked back to our rap line we passed one of the not so communicative people who had just led Stainless Steel, this time I got about four words in response:
Mark was recognised by the non-communicative climbers and stopping for a proper chat, during which he told them who we were. It transpired that I have been in email contact with them several times before, and they said hi through him. He has not done much leading and was happy to allow us to take control. Wiggins was going to jump onto Sinuosity, but I suggested going up the original line, which follows most of the same route and is called Thunder Thighs. Looking at the guide I’m not convinced there is a 3 grade difference between these two lines:
Now before heading out this morning I was instructed by Steve to make sure there were images of me. So as Mark followed up second I found a comfy spot from which to take a few images, and soak up the rays. The perfect time to take a snap and keep Steve happy. It was a slow paced and relaxed day, so the image is fitting. Both Wiggins and I admitted to feeling a bit tired when we first started, so we continued at the gentle pace quiet enjoying the longer than normal breaks in being on rock due to climbing with three:
As Mark started to follow Wiggins, another couple had turned up and were climbing Hope. The leader was at the last section for what seemed an eternity. So long in fact that both Mark (who in this image hasn’t started yet) and I had followed our line, while he had only just set up his belay to bring his partner up. I had a little chat with him, and he said that the long slabby top-out with no gear had unnerved him. Wilyabrup has a tendency to do that on a number of climbs, we’ve just become accustomed to it. Again my faith was restored in my ability to be social:
Mark was starting to feel his lack of climbing fitness and was on the edge of saying he would head off. We managed to convince him to stick about just a bit longer, in part by suggesting a couple of shorter lines. So I set off up Tom Thumb Direct Finish. This is another one of those climbs at Wilyabrup that is a tad run out, and today the holds felt a tad greasy. Seeing we were hitting lower grade routes, my chalk bag was back home so I sucked it up and had to keep moving with considerable distance between me and my last piece of gear:
They both followed in good style but Mark said that was it for him now, as his toes where shot. So we headed back down, as Wiggins had another lead in mind. Just as Mark was about to head back to the bags to collect his stuff the “silent ones” came by as they were leaving. They chatted to Mark asking if we had left any gear on any routes, as they had found crag booty. I tried to get involved in the conversation, but got very little response and no eye contact. As they left Mark and I looked at each other in dumbfounded bemusement as to what had just happened:
At least I can say that it was not just me, as Wiggins had received he same treatment. That is unless he received the silent treatment due to being associated with me? No matter, the sun was out and we were still climbing. Wiggins proceeded to lead the only sport route of the day, Setting Sun. A route that had obviously seen action today, as it was very chalked up. That at least took a bit of greasiness away from the fine rounded layback section that can feel very unnerving in wet conditions. Of course it wouldn’t have been right to end on an odd number:
So I went in search of carpet pythons on Glory. We hadn’t seen any when we climbed Hope but they can often be seen on this line too. It was certainly feeling a bit toasty now and we were quietly hopefully, but ultimately disappointed. The climbing however was great fun, I led the line only using tri-cams making the bottom roof a bit spicy. Looking out from the belay, as Wiggins followed me, Steel Wall was empty for the first time since we had arrived today. In fact we had the place to ourselves, as all the other social and not so parties had headed off:
It was however also time for us to pack our bags and head out. One last rap down to sort our gear and then take the long walk out. The sun was not quite going down but as we walked out we could feel a chill in the air. We felt very lucky this weekend to have sampled some real rock on such a wonderful sunny day, during which we even saw dolphins surf the waves. Looking ahead the wintery weather will come back for next weekend, with a forecast for rain, rain and rain. If that holds true another shed session is likely to be on the cards:
One thing I can safely take away from today is that whatever I may think about myself being a tad antisocial and hermit like, compared to at least some others I cannot be classed as socially inept!
Sandbagged 