Crowded House

My last email to most of you was a month back, since then I managed another solo top-rope mission and had a few weeks off. Then came Easter and the intention was to get out for a morning or two at the local crags, but that fell through so there was a last minute decision to gate crash Rongy and Wiggins trip to Eaglestone Rock. I’d been here once before about six years back so knew what to expect. As we approached the place and standing there for the first time it was hard to make out what the boys thought about the place:

It was a 500km/6hr trip from my place, after which we found ourselves in the middle of the Wheatbelt surrounded by mostly flat, cleared agricultural land. The last town we had driven through was Nungarin but there didn’t seem to be much there, much like the last few towns in truth. The rock we were destined for had been the first major landscape feature in a long time. The boys described it as looking like a pimple, as opposed to a mountain, in the landscape both from afar and when we got closer:

While it may seem like I’m not talking this place up read on. The large granite boulders provide a range of slabby routes up to 20m high. Most are fully equipped sport routes but there are a few trad and mixed lines. It is claimed that Australia’s largest raptor the Wedgetail eagle can occasional be seen perched atop the rock, and while only being a pimple on the landscape it is the highest point for a very long way so it is easy to imagine that being true. This vantage point also results in the routes having great backdrops and views:

The bottom section of the rock is generally slick and smooth and a number of routes require pure friction moves to get established. However, this soon gives way to great flakes and edges making for sustained and interesting lines. We didn’t bother unpacking the car when we arrived, instead heading up to the crowded rock face and picking off a few free lines to get a feel for the place. As we bagged a few routes it was clear that both Rongy and Wiggins were starting to warm up to the place:

What with the crowds there was going to be little chance of seeing any Wedgetail eagles on this trip. However, with two nights leaving us an afternoon, full day and morning to bag a few lines we would be having fun. It was only 16 degrees on our arrival mid-afternoon and in the sun it was fine, but once in the shade the breeze sent a chill to the bone. The forecast was for it to warm up a tad with each day, but the morning would no doubt feel cool with the mercury predicted to drop to the middle to low single digits:

I’m not intending to recount every line in this report but tallied that we hit 14 routes, some of which we ended up repeating. The grades here range from the low-teens to mid-twenties, plus a few projects of unknown grade. We were not climbing at our strongest by any means so we generally stuck to the teens, with a couple of 20s thrown in. On that first afternoon we racked up four routes, and being sport climbs we all lead a number of them. As the sun was setting Wiggins was eyeing off a boulder that he swore “would go”, but we never found out:

We watched the sun set from a vantage point, while the last few climbers finished up for the day. Having checked out a few of the local tourist websites to find more information about the place (unsuccessfully) I noted that they all mention that it’s a regular spot for climbers. When Howsie and I came here we had the place to ourselves except for the occasional traveller using the free campsite for an overnight stop. This time was a stark contrast from then, but this small place seemed big enough to handle the numbers:

Our first night was cold but knowing and being prepared for it made it manageable. As the morning light crept in Rongy and I headed up to the same vantage point we used the evening before to watch the sunrise. Eaglestone rock is flanked on its east and north by the shoreline of the Brown Lake, one of the many Wheatbelt salt lakes. With summer having just left us and autumn settling in there was no water in the lake but the morning light made it look like a normal water body instead of the salt crust that is was:

We had missed the full moon by one night, and as such it hung in the sky as the glorious morning light splashed across the orange face of the granite boulders. The Wheatfield’s, that looked like they had been recently been harvested, stretched out both to the west and south. We could hear a few birds calling out but other than that there was not a sound. The numerous scatterings of tents and caravans, which were located all around the pimple on the landscape seemed to be deserted on this Easter Sunday morning:

When we arrived we were a bit shocked, but not overly surprised, to see caravans and tents splattered around the rock as we drove in. Regardless of the numbers we managed to find a quiet spot, and while we saw numerous cars come and go during our stay we had this spot to ourselves. It’s a short walk to the crag and so there is no need to lug all the gear up. Plus being mostly sport climbing you can wander up with an even lighter load, which we did after a welcome breakfast. It certainly is a very convenient crag on so many levels:

Rongy and I wandered up ahead of Wiggins. While it was not a crack of dawn start to the day there wasn’t the sound of clinking metal coming from anywhere else. So while we had the pick of the crag we heading for a sedate start on a pleasantly graded slab in the sun. Another smooth glassy start, but that was becoming more familiar now. I brought a new pair of shoes up with me, bad move. They had way too much rubber and I couldn’t feel the rock in them, so I went back to my trusty old balding shoes:

As we moved onto the next line more and more people started to mill about. It started with mostly children, they were scrambling around the rocks in search of Easter Eggs while their parents no doubt were chilling at the campsites sipping their morning coffee in peace. We did took turns in leading but not in a strict rotational basis, for me it depended on whether I had done the route before as to whether I was keen to go first or not. So Rongy went up again under the watchful eyes of several children:

Wiggins didn’t wander up the crag with as light a load as we had, as he had brought his entire collection of camera and video gear. He confessed that it was a good thing that I’d come as he wasn’t sure how much climbing he’d get done and plus he was keen to capture the trip for a video. This resulted in the lines occasionally being chosen based on footage opportunities. Wiggins did jump on the rock, both on the floppy end and on second, but picking and choosing the lines to avoid aggravating a few niggles that he has being carrying:

The next line we headed for is one of the crag classics. On the first day it seemed that people were queueing up for it, and no doubt as everyone slowly made their way back up the same would happen today. For that reason despite being in the shade, which still felt pretty cold, we jumped on it. Howsie and I had tried the line but failed to get it clean. We managed all the moves and didn’t do any pre-placing of gear, but it was simply too sustained and pumpy for us back then when we were climbing pretty well:

So I went up first and after the first few moves up to and trying to get past the first runner, which in good sport climbing style was stick clipped, I slunk back to rest on the rope. It was clear that for me the route would be way too hard, so instead I continued up a new line of bolts that went to the left. We had been advised that this one came in at 20, so potentially more achievable. The move to get past the second bolt was massive, both Rongy and I had to snatch for it and risk falling if we missed it:

After that move it was great jugging until a compressed rockover move to get on the slab, which is where Wiggins (who cruised the long reach low down) struggled. We all gave it a few goes and while none of us got it clean, there was only one move for each of us that was our undoing. The fire wasn’t in the belly enough to want to keep working it, so content with our efforts we saved our finger tips and strength for the many other lines that we were yet to jump on. It was however the only line that we had to “work”:

We decided that it was time to climb in the sun again and with that we headed to the main face, and finally you get to see that there were in fact other climbers. It wasn’t one big group but a number of smaller ones, all from Perth. They were all friendly with not an ego amongst them, which makes all the difference. With such a large number of climbers here, I’m going to take a stab and say there were close to 20 at one point, there were inevitably ropes and draws left on routes. Everyone was however very chilled and had no issues with us using their gear:

Wiggins can be seen above making the initial tricky moves to get going on a very fine line, and looking back probably one of my favourite ones being very neat, classy, sustained and direct. It was the only route on which we saw Rongy struggle to get started; but after Wiggins and I managed to get the moves off the deck clean on lead he had no choice and of course managed it with style. Despite all the people the place still allowed me to capture those images that make it look like we were alone in the wilderness:

Lake Brown was a dazzling and brilliant, almost blinding, white. The top of the crag gave a great 360 view of the area and we could spy all the camping spots that were in use. Funnily the actually campsite, shown below, was relatively quiet. People were instead spread about in the bush finding their own tranquil spots in this little paradise amongst the Wheatfield’s. We didn’t wander down to the salt lake on this trip, I did think about it a few times but time just seemed to slip by:

We had only intended a quick’ish morning session before taking a break, but as it was time had really slipped by and it was past midday before we decided we really needed to take a break. The rock has awesome friction but that along with the crimpy style of climbing was a great recipe for making the fingertips tingle. All three of us wondered how we would hold up if we went too hard, so were happy to slow down and take a break:

It had only crept up to 21 degrees but with no breeze it felt warm being in the sun most of the time. So back at the car we shifted the seat into the little shade the car offered, had a brew and made some lunch. We certainly didn’t seem to be in any great rush, and slouched about for quite a while. Eventually however we were drawn back to the rock, encouraged maybe by the thought of placing some trad. This time Rongy carried up the trad gear, as we had in mind to bag a few mixed lines:

The first line to go was a tight chimney that eventually ended, although it seemed like it went on forever while I was squeezed into it, and continued up a fine flake system. This route was at the far right of the main face, below which the majority of climbers were camped. As you drive into this area you need to drive all the way round the pimple to get the campsite, which may be why so many people camp round the rock instead of at the campsite itself. I could see why the climbers would camp here though:

Next up Rongy wanted to try a route that had drawn his eye from the start. It was one that I had previously led, and Wiggins wasn’t keen to try it on lead so there was no bickering over who would jump on it first. The lower portion is a flaked crack system that starts very thin and on poor feet, it’s pumpy start is made even more so due to the need to place gear. Wiggins was on video duty and we got a sneak peak of some of the four plus hours of footage he took, some of the footage of this line was very cool just like this route:

Skin is limited and we were all wearing what little we had on our fingertips out. Rongy was very happy and satisfied, and rightly so, but his fingers were a tad sore after that last lead. So with Wiggins also keen to take a back seat I had to decide on a line. I have to admit that I procrastinated over this for a while and eventually went for the line in the middle of the wall that all three of us thought looked run out. I needn’t have worried as it climbed really well and never felt too bad, despite a few sketch moves (due to not finding the best holds!):

We had decided that we would get one more route in for the day, and offered to clean a route for one of the other climbers to retrieve his draws. Wiggins was done for the day so we took our time allowing him to get set up with a good angle for some more footage. He wasn’t intending to take it from the rap rope this time, as there was too much demand for its use but I had to include this image as it has such a great backdrop and also shows that this place was big enough to handle all the climbers:

The route followed the same chimney I had made use of so it made sense for Rongy to lead it this time. Unlike the morning and yesterday we were not pulling the rope on every line this afternoon, fatigue was starting to set in. This time instead of continuing up the chimney Rongy had to bridge across the gap to get established on the slabby blunt arête. It was a great exposed move on good holds. On second I was getting tired doing the back and footing and then could really feel myself tiring on the transition to the arête, definitely time to call it a day:

Most of the others climbers seemed to be thinking the same way and were content to hang about and chat rather than climb anymore. So we handed the gear over and left them to it as the shadows grew longer and the light changed to the evening glow. There were a few diehards amongst them and at night before the moon had risen, as we were at our camp, we could hear voices on the crag and some night climbing was underway. Something we’ve often talk about doing, but there was no motivation from our camp this time:

Instead we watched the sun set, made a brew and flopped in our chairs round the fire. Despite not being as cold this time, we were still donning ugg boots, down jackets and long trousers, despite having a warm fire. It was pretty late before any of us could be bothered to sort out food, instead sampling Wiggins beers. We did eventually break out the food and then spent some time trying to capture the rising moon, unsuccessfully for me. I then left them to it and sloped off to bed:

Wiggins was keen not to miss the sunrise on the last day so I was up early and had the kettle on ready. The good thing about getting up early was being able to use the one and only toilet at the campsite, without needing to stand in a queue or having people waiting impatiently outside. Now why I would mention this may seem strange, however I have to introduce the toilet as based on our observations we didn’t think it was designed to cope with the crowds it was experiencing on this long Easter weekend, I’ll leave you with that image:

Another crisp and clear sky. As the image above shows the morning light out to the horizon told us that we needed to get our skates on if we were to see the sun appear. So we scooted back up to our perch from where Wiggins set himself up to watch and record the sun saying hello to the world. Rongy didn’t join us this morning but when we got back to the camp he was up and about and better still breakfast was served! We were keen to get up and going this morning, so we could have a reasonable departure time:

So back up at the crag before anyone else was there we again procrastinated about which lines to pick off. We had already agreed it was one lead each before we needed to break camp and hit the road. I decided to go first, and went for a line I hadn’t led before. My thinking on going first being that if my fingertips complained on another route it’d give me an excuse not to try my chosen line. So I found myself on the usual balancy start moves, but it was the section after the first bolt that looked concerning. It looked run out and the holds didn’t seem as positive:

It was however awesome, just like every route we had been on during the trip. Eaglestone Rock may be a mere pimple but the climbing has class and style making it well worth the trip out. Rongy came up second, and he was struggling with the cold shady start so once atop the flake he sat there with his fingers warming up in the sun before continuing up the slabby section. Wiggins declined to follow this line instead capturing the footage and intending to save himself for one last lead:

Wiggins was up next and seeing we were intending to pick three lines from the main face he chose a line he did on the first day. We could all feel the last few days climbing and despite having done the line before it still made us stop, think and work. Rongy kindly belayed allowing me to run around getting images from several angles, we still had the place to ourselves. The wall to the right of the chimney has a great line that appealed but it was not to be on this trip, leaving the need for another visit:

It wasn’t until Rongy set off on his line that we had the company of other climbers, Wiggins had decided not to climb this one but instead used his vantage point to capture some footage from above. Rongy picked the runout looking route I had led late the previous day. He managed to find a much better hold, which made clipping the seemingly high third bolt far less sketchy that is had to be when I did it. Atop the rock for one last time there was a need for a final bit of circular footage that drew curious gazes, you’ll have to wait for the video to understand that:

Three climbs down and our bodies were telling us that was enough. So we went back down to break camp, make a brew and were on the road by 10:30. On the way back we drove the inland way, conscious that the return Easter Monday traffic into Perth was likely to be gnarly. It was a good move and the roads were mostly completely empty. As it turned out the inland route was no longer in distance or time than the way via Perth, something to note as Eaglestone Rock despite only being a pimple is worthy of another trip: