This weekend the weather was not working in our favour. Wiggins and I had set our sights on Driftwood Bay at Willyabrup, but being on the west coast we decided to abort those plans when the forecast predicted 40km/hr westerlies combined with a rough sea. Instead we headed for the more sheltered Castle Rock, on the east side of the capes. It was a mixed morning of sunlight and loaming rain clouds, most of which passed us by:
I started proceedings with the fine slab of Stepping Up. Thinking that it would be a nice warmup, but forgetting the small sharp holds. Without having got our blood flowing yet our finger tips not only felt sore from the holds but also a tad cold. The combined sensation being enough to make me pike out right at the top of the route so avoiding the second crux sequence. Wiggins made his way up more directly but not without a rest half way during which is attempted to warm his fingers up:
Steve followed last, with the sun on his back he donned a t-short and made short work of the whole route. Dancing his way up in style, without a hesitation and with a big grin across his face. More impressively he had less than two weeks back had his right wrist fully opened up during an operation to sort out his abused and aging joints and ligaments:
Next I was keen to throw Wiggins on my recently creation, which Craig and I called Smear to Glory. He hung about a while looking tempted to go through the crux moves without placing any extra gear. Eventually his brain got the better of him and two more pieces later he pulled out of the sentry box and up the wall. It was however a little disappointing that his style didn’t match the name of the climb, working his way up in more a face climbing fashion:
Steve however did not disappoint and he lay-backed the flake putting all his trust into the smeary footholds. We had a bit of a chat about the grade and am happy to report that it is not a sandbag. It would seem that Craig and I guessed the right grade for it. Hopefully it will get a few more ascents as the weather improves, I can think of a few candidates I would like to throw at this one:
Steve was understandable not leading today, so it was up to me to choose the next line. I really like the one I chose but always find it bit of a challenge. I can safely say that there was nothing fresh about my style on Minty Freshness today. I placed the first two pieces but with each foot and hand hold and each gear placement we were showered with flakes peeling off the rock. It made for a very intimidating situation and again I piked out bypassing the crux sequence:
As I set up the belay a bank of clouds were drifting over and we had our first shower of the day. It didn’t look like it was going to last long so I stayed atop and got myself comfy with a good view below me. Wiggins seemed a little reluctant due to the weather closing in but did eventually jump on to follow me up. He made short work on the flaky bottom section and was soon ambling up the much easier finish:
Steve didn’t fancy this one, his wrist could only cope with certain movements and this route would push the friendship. Atop the climb Wiggins admitting due to the conditions he had put trust in holds that he may not have trusted had he been on lead. The route certainly could do with a good clean up, which will only come when people start to jump on it again. Not sure I should admit it but we may have under graded this one by a grade or two, oh well at least one of my routes here isn’t a sandbag:
Feeling just a tad weary Wiggins then opted for the very relaxed Corn Flakes, a pleasant flake which doesn’t hide any secrets or try to deceive you. While it had just lightly rained on us the rock was quick to dry, and this route was in perfect condition. You may also have noticed that other than for the first line Steve has subsequently been dressed in slightly warmer attire, the wind had picked up and was a tad chilly:
So with me piking out of cruxes, Wiggins opting for soft lines and Steve need to rug up I did start to wonder if we were all going just a little bit soft. It wasn’t for that reason but more because I knew just how much Steve liked this route, that I jumped onto Well Rounded. This meant a scary start with a high bolt and horrible landing if I failed to clip it, and bumping up the grade a few notches… what was I thinking:
After clipping the first bolt I managed to kick Steve in the head, hence why he is ducking in the image above. A quick apology and then it was back to business, I vocally assisted myself up this climb which Steve found thoroughly entertaining. He also tried to put me off at one point offering advice on the best holds to go for. Despite all the shenanigans on this route I pulled off my first clean ascent of the day. Steve was back to how he started stripping off for the camera, and romping up the route:
Wiggins then followed showing signs of fatigue that hinted at it being the end of the session. I almost managed to get them to follow me up one more line, but with the weather closing in we decided I needed to can my enthusiasm and keep it for another day. Now I haven’t mentioned it yet but we were very pleased to have chosen this place as we got to see several whales and a seal, curtesy of Steve’s watchful eyes. The eagle eyed amongst you may spot them in the image below:
It was a short walk back to the car, and then we drove out as the rain started to fall again. Were we going soft, maybe just a little and I feel like I was the biggest culprit today. But you have to have days when you’re not playing your A game and things don’t go to plan. It’s more about how you change your attitude on those days that count. As proven today they can be just as much fun:
Thanks Castle Rock.
Sandbagged 