I’ve occasional seen cars parked on top of the hill just above Moses Rocks and thought it’s be great to drive in one day and save the walk in. So on Saturday we tried to get in that way but it wasn’t quite as straight forward as Google Maps indicated. We had to traverse a paddock and find a gate that would take us onto the track in the national park. We were just about to turn onto the track when a ranger came along from where we intended to go. He politely advised that it was a restricted area and that we had just driven over private land to get to where we shouldn’t be, oops. So we followed his advice and followed him back the main drag from where we went to the usual car park:
I’ve already let slip that Moses was our destination. We had decided to head there in the afternoon so we would have the sun on our backs. Normally the wind changes in the afternoon and turns towards the land, resulting in Moses being shrouded in a slippery salty residue. However, today I checked the forecast and despite high tide coinciding with our arrival time along with a 3m swell the wind was due to remain offshore. While it looks gloomy in the image below the sun was out and for most of our time here we were kept warm:
You may have noticed in the first image Howsie and Steve putting something on their shoes. One of the positives about not having parked at the top of the crag was that we then had to walk in along the beach. That then allowed the two of them to test out Steve’s invention of the beach shoe, a bit like a snow show and intended to make walking on the soft sand that bit easier. I’m pleased to say they both found them comfortable, easy to use and effective:
Once we hit the rocks and then the top of the crag the sand shoes came off. The wind was light and offshore and better still the rock was looking dry. We bypassed the main area, where we usually go, and headed along to Rumpole’s Rocks at the far southern end. As we passed the Zawn we did have a quick look in as it is such a great and atmospheric place to climb. We only gave it a cursory glance, as the high tide and medium swell resulted in the bottom being constantly awash with white water:
Rumpole’s Rocks starts at the waterline, which may seem like a ludicrous choice of crag on such a day. However, there are two good reasons we chose this place. Firstly, Howsie had never been here plus Steve (the gate crasher of this trip) had only ever been here once and on that occasion only did one climb. Secondly, while it seemed like wild ocean conditions the base of the crag is protected by a large rocky ridge. So while the spray of the waves do occasionally crash over this ridge, the crag itself is protected from the full impact of the rolling waves:
The old guidebook from the 90’s had indicated this was a 25m crag and when I read about it on arrival in WA some 13 years back that I was pretty excited. It’s only really 15m tops and that may be a bit generous. In addition it could be regarded as a bit broken and some lines a bit scrambly. What the place lacks in height and consistency it however more than makes up for in quality of rock, position and atmosphere. Having lead every climb here (several times) and needing to be sensible with my shoulder that is mending nicely I allowed the boys to lead away while I was on photo duty:
Howsie kicked things off and cruised up Finger Licking looking like a pro. Unlike the rock we had seen on the way in and due to being so close to the ocean the rock was a little damp, but not ridiculously so. The awesome friction this fine grained granite crag offers was not affected and the lines felt in surprisingly good condition. The calm rock pool below Howsie in this image belies the true setting, and the whole time here all we could hear was pounding waves, smashing into the rocky ridge protecting the belayer:
Steve was a tad nervous after seconding up the first route, so he picked the easiest line on the crag. This image really shows why this part of Moses is in such a wicked position. The waves roll into the bay the south and the rock ridge provides just enough protection. The wet and dry boulders behind the boys show just how close the waves get and maybe one day we’ll have a huge wave swamp us here. On this trip they were OK but while running round to get the good angles I did get hit by a couple of waves:
While Steve had started up Hot and Spicy, he soon lost any nervousness he had at the base and halfway up, where there is a choice of two lines, he chose Yogurt. I personally reckon this is one of the primo lines here, and not because Wiggins and I put it up. The side pull flakes offer great gear and solids moves, while in a great exposed position. Steve loved it and looked solid and strong:
Now some may know Steve recently said he wouldn’t be climbing for some time due to wrist issues. He’s been working on them and today was keen to get out not only to test his sand shoes but also his personally modified splint. One of the issues he has is with the thumb movements and so to keep his thumb in the optimal position he modified the inner part of this splint to create a cast. Just like his sand shoes it worked a treat and there was no discomfort and it didn’t look like it was holding him back:
Howsie then picked Chillies and Garlic and made short work of the line. I have seen it baffle a few people, but not Howsie. We only had limited time at the crag today and they were a bit surprised when I told them that we only had an hour left , which may have also contributed to his sped ascent of the line. Steve belayed cool as a cucumber as the waves continued to smash the rocky ridge, with a couple of them breaking over in spectacular style:
Just to even things up Steve hit Jugs Galore. It took him a couple of starts to figure out the lower crux, and once past that he motored up even neglecting to place gear in the upper section. There was a bit of contemplation as to whether another route could be squeezed in but that was short lived and we were soon walking back out, this time without the sand shoes. Once again Moses provide us with a great session, and better still there are plenty of good lines at Rumpole’s rocks to bring the boys back for another session:
Late last night I got a text from Craig asking if I was out climbing this weekend, seeing he had just missed out on the trip to Moses we went for a family trip to Castle Rock on Sunday. I allowed Craig the first two leads up the relatively easy cracks on the north face, seeing it was a another short trip we decided on easy lines just for fun. Then I showed him a line that I had been eyeing up for a few years, which had no recorded ascents. Despite me offering it to him he instead persuaded me to jump on lead and now we have another route at Castle Rock call Smear to Glory:
Sandbagged 