Despite my prediction that we would struggle with the weather in my last email, this weekend has been a flurry of options to get out. There were offers to visit a Perth crag (it was very tempting!), a trip to Welly Dam this morning and yesterday a day of local trad, which is the one I plumped for. I was very lucky to be able to squeeze this trip in, as Elseya has dance and it was going to take up most of the weekend, until they changed some of the session times and that freed up Saturday morning. With trad and longer routes in mind there really was only one option. At the carpark, looking down the track towards the coast, a faint rainbow appeared in front of the bank of cloud we had been looked at as we drove down. A sign that it would be a good day:
This year most of the trips out have been to Welly Dam, for convenience mainly so it was long time we got out somewhere else. During Wiggins three weeks off, which is coming to an end, he admitted to having climbed more than expected. But most had been indoors or at the Dam so he too was keen for a change. As we drove down, there was discussion about keeping things easy and getting some mileage in so nothing more than 19. We talked about which lines and why, and then as we walked into the crag we came across this sign:
The crag had been closed off from the slab next to Steel Wall heading northwards. This put paid to three of the lines we had in mind, but this crag has plenty of choice in the range we were looking at. The urge to inspect the damage was too great, so with warning signs of danger, rockfall and keep out… we of course ignored them all and “entered at our own risk”:
The largest new block at the base we could identify is the one just in front of Steve. This conglomerate block had come from low down on the slab, just above the greenery living in the low crack line. But there were other cleaner blocks that seemed to have come from higher up, which had no doubt dislodged this larger section on their way down. From what we could tell a flake section (two blocks both the size of several car batteries) had come away from the top of the right end of Steel Wall possibly affecting Steel Yourself, but not having ever climbed this route we couldn’t be sure:
The good news is the rock fall was minor and hadn’t affected much, but goes to show the fragile nature to the sea cliffs we climb on. The flakes and occasionally teetering blocks combined with our cold wet winters and hot dry summers means there is always the chance of something unexpected coming away. But we don’t let that stop us, and today from a weather point-of-view the blue sky prevailed (at the start) and despite coming up to high tide and having a reasonable swell the rock conditions were great:
We set up camp at the bottom of Inner Space Wall. With the grades we chose it made sense to start on this section with two great 17 and a 19 to pick from all next to each other. We had three great lines, three racks and three keen people so there were choices being made all round… I’m sure one day we will be organised enough to come down with just one rack and rope between us. However, hauling a bit more gear does provide that extra bit of exercise on the walk in and even more so on the walk out:
I offered to warm the other two up by taking first lead, plumping for Waterfall’s Second Folly, with the direct start of course. Now I love trad and feel that I’m not too bad at placing gear, but I’ll be up front and say that this lead had me on edge for the first two thirds. I seemed to struggled to get gear in easily and more often than note was not very happy with it. I could say that I have been bolt clipping too much and have lost it, which is baloney as I’ve been to Willies, the Book Shelf and the Avon Valley recently. So I can only put it down to my head and possibly the climb, as I’ve heard others say the direct start on this route is tough and today it certainly felt it for me:
The good news is that I got up clean but not without over tensioning my forearms and shoulders, way more than needed, to compensate for my lack of head space. It was good, as it made me dig that bit deeper and keep going only to be rewarded, like every climb, by feeling good and having a calm moment while sitting at the top belaying the others up. Of course the added bonus of leading here is that you get to sit like a king (or queen) on top of the world looking out at an awesome coastal view:
Steve made it up but not without pain and was concerned about his left hand, Wiggins coming third was able to enjoy the climbing without need to fiddle with my gear. Some of which proved to be in pretty good and being problematic to get out, of course they were the wonderful tri-nuts! So with one route down we headed down but increasingly Steve made indications that he should maybe not climb anymore L:
So Wiggins donned the shoes next and had his eye on Total Awesome, which I was very happy with as it’s a fine direct line. He plumped for his own rack, probably a sensible move as mine might mess with his head as it did with me. Before I had to get on with belaying I got a little artistic, but the timing of sets of waves didn’t want to play along so it seems the sea behind him is calm. This was however not the case and the regular thunder of waves crashing in continued as we climbed on:
Meanwhile Steve was in self-diagnosis and management mode, the first aid kit was out and the hand was being strapped and immobilised. I’m not sure is he has one foot bigger than the other or whether the pain in his hand was getting worse, as he only managed to replace one climbing shoe with his walking boots. He did grumble so I’m guessing both feet were comfy in their respective choice of footwear and his hand while sore was manageable. Strange the details I pick up as I sit here typing away:
Wiggins was in fine form and looked calm and collected as he ascended the very good thin seam not stopping to think too hard and just flowing up the line. It’s a great route but the section above his last piece that he has just completed is pretty technical, thin and steep. I’ve seen it mess with many a climber who invariably end up piking-out and making use of the flake of Inner Space just to the right. Not today though and not only was his climbing good to watch, but I marvelled and raved about his gear placements with each one being absolutely text book perfect:
Of course while it was a pleasure to watch the effortless climbing going on above me I also took the time to keep an eye out to sea. This place is amazingly beautiful and I probably say that too often. But today for some reason the waves seemed even more impressive and I spent as much time focusing on belaying and climbing as I did watching the waves barrelling in. It was just after I took this image that I was lucky enough to watch a very clean wave come in, with four dolphins not only surfing it but jumping out in front of it three times before the wave broke. They then jumped out the back of the wave spinning high into the air and looking like they were having a blast. They were the only dolphins I saw, so it was a good job I looked that way when I did:
Steve didn’t follow us up the route and instead decided to practise some rope work and take images. We would have been quite happy to bail and head home but he wasn’t in pain and in truth why wouldn’t you want to stay out here on a day like today. I climbed the route he had wanted to bag today while he dangled down the second rope, so it was a good job we brought two ropes. He had fun playing with a new knot which I can’t remember the name of, it is kind of like a prussic but one doesn’t snag as much and is easier to use as an ascender knot:
This also meant that you’ll get an image or two of me on the pointy end, as this one shows my trusty camera follows me everywhere hence why there are rarely images of me. Inner Space simply had to be climbed, it has been the scene of many a struggle and this top section has thwarted lots of aspiring mid-grade climbers. While it remains no harder than what it first was, since a hold came away, it is still a challenging and nervous top out/crux. Fortunately for me, and inspired by Wiggins lead and gear, I felt the clam come back and soaked up every move, placement and position on this route:
Sat once more on my throne I observed as Steve got in close to take images of Wiggins coming up. I have to say I can understand why Steve was having so much fun despite not climbing, I do love taking images of and watching others climb. Surprisingly at the crux moves with two cameras watching and recording his every move Wiggins confessed to feeling tired and asked that I kept a close eye on him, well I guess belaying does come before images in these situations so I obliged:
While the clouds were marching in from out to sea they were patchy and this allowed the sun to poke through periodically. When this happened it was really cool to watch the boiling waters below as they switched from a lustre to full glow. With full sun on them the white water of the waves, as they crashed into the rocks, the seemed to be boiling with energy and beauty and you can’t help but feel in awe of their power:
Due to tiring arms the next lead went down a few notches in grade, and Tom Thumb Direct seemed the obvious line. It suits Wiggins style with technical, delicate and exposed moves protected by good but spaced small gear. Despite being a couple of grades easier this climb more than makes up for it in exposure. It’s not a climb to send a new leader up, but it was the perfect choice for today:
Despite Steve’s best efforts to knock Wiggins off, as he was trying to work out which side he needed to be for the best images, the gear was not tested today. For the sharp-eyed yes this images was taken before the one above, but why let things like that ruin the flow of the story. The section above Wiggins is where it gets spicy and I’m pleased to say Steve not only sorted out his rope work but also picked the right side for the best images. This part of the route is where you need to pull out the micro-wires and RPs, and then run it out. Gripping stuff and where you really test your faith in your gear and your head space:
Every so often there seemed to be a set of waves that came in and called out to be capture on “film” to be shared with others. There is a slight headland at Wilyabrup and so the waves come in and then spread out either side. Looking out from the point of the headland you get these picturesque views, made even better when the waves are barrelling, there is an offshore wind to create the trailing mist and the sun is out but not too high to give a subtle but beautiful glow. Today we had all of those aspects come together, and maybe that is why the waves demanded more of my attention than usual:
My lead next and I can safely say I lived up to the name of the climb I picked. Blubber Boy is a rare find here, a true mid-grade slab and one that has a long section of what can only be described as marginal protection or quite possibly psychological gear, i.e. don’t ever test it. It was quite fitting to go on this line after Wiggins lead in many ways. The small gear, runouts and delicate and thin nature of the route all complimented the previous line. Other than Craig I don’t believe I’ve seen anyone else lead this route, possible Rongy but I’m not sure. After a fair bit of mucking about, yo-yoing and checking from different angles what holds were to come I committed to the slab and once committed there was no reversing the moves:
Atop once more I looked across and found Steve on his own throne looking like he was either finally let his emotions come through about his hand having stopped his climbing or maybe be was having a nana-nap. Neither were true, he was videoing the whole escapade, and I’m dreading watching my stop start efforts before I finally committed to the climb! This explained his motionless down looking hunched stance, plus he had to concentrate on shielding his camera from the sun:
Wiggins has one trait that does irk me a tiny bit, he has too long a reach! Not that it made this climb or any of the others a walk in the park, but it does mean that where some mere mortals (i.e. short) have to make a move or two he can reach past. He admitted to working on his style and technique by not making use of his Inspector Gadget reach, but on this climbing and I can’t blame him his did make use of it. I’m super happy I chose this line but can’t say that I’ll be rushing back to it anytime soon:
To even things up Wiggins plumped for one more lead, so as he tackled Hole World I watched him, the waves and Steve. Steve was inspecting a line below his throne. It’s one Wiggins had considered jumping on but it didn’t happen today. Rockfish Dreaming is a great lead, a tad tricky, fingery and sustained but damn good. It certainly caught Steve’s eye so maybe next time, and we better get on it before that huge detached flake decides to come away! However I digress, late last year after winter had departed, Hole World beat Wiggins and during one of his attempts back then he pulled a block off and that put paid to his endeavours at the time. Wiggins was however looking good today and I’m very happy to say he managed a clean ascent:
So all that was left was for me to follow up, and I had relinquished my camera so there could be a few more mug shots of me. While we clocked up repeated lines today each and every one was worthy and also worthy of more repeats yet to come, um maybe not too soon for one. It was, as it usually is, a top day out: despite Steve not being able to climb he had a ball; Wiggins was in top form and his style and gear brought me back inline after a dodgy start; and of course let’s not forget mother nature who gave us the backdrop of most incredible waves that kept calling out to my camera:
Sandbagged 