After just over 3 weeks overseas in both England and France, during which I never touched rock, we got back to good old WA. I had a week and a bit up my sleeve before I was back to work, which happens to be tomorrow. So with a bit of spare time to get over jet lag, there was also the hope of getting onto rock a few times. The first trip was with Glen to Moses Rocks. A place for fun that is never too serious. He was keen to get into Freddy’s Zawn and being summer of course the conditions would be great, wouldn’t they:
Except it seems we have had a bit of a false start to summer, as the image above shows the walls were still seeping and covered in patches of black, wet and very slippery lichen. The good news was that the wave washed boulders at the base of this claustrophobic zawn were teaming with crabs of many sizes and colours. That gave me something to look at while Glen embarked on the first lead of the day:
It was the first time for Glen to get on rock for several months, as seems to be the theme with the local crew who seem to have had injuries in abundance. He’d already been checking out the guide book before our trip out and was set on leading Freddy Kruger’s Claw a fun climb that makes use of the rounded horizontal breaks up an arête. There were a few moves that made him stop and think but he soon was nearing the top despite being put off by a huge wobble (but pretty secure) chockstone in the chimney to the right:
While he led and I occasionally looked up to check progress and also had a look about for the best crab. This was the winner as it is completely different to the many other crabs I often find at these coastal places. The arms and pinchers are relatively large for its body compared to other crabs I find, which indicates to me it could be a mean bugger. This was reinforced by the fact that it wasn’t worried by my presence, and just sat there while the others scurried for shelter:
Back to climbing, and one reason that Glen was so keen to get out was to use his Christmas presents: A set or tri-cams. These passive caming devices are described by a number of stockists as being a bit cultish. That is certainly true here in the south west of WA as just about all the trad climbers we know off and that have encountered them have been swept off their feet by them. Steve of course being the tri-cam grandmaster with the full set right up to the big boys. Another interesting fact being that they invented by Greg Lowe in the 1970s, if CAMPs U-tube clip is to be believed:
I was also keen, despite the conditions, to bag a climb in the mighty zawn. So after umming and ahhing went for another of the older routes here bumping up a grade or two on A Wet Dream on Elm Street. This climb follows a face littered with horizontal breaks that all slope alarming to the left, making the rounded holds all feel that bit more insecure. It took me a few yoyos before committing to the crux section and getting on with it. Glen however resorted to other tactics at this point:
His excuse for having a whimper on both his climb and then while following me up were the conditions. Despite being January and in theory summer I too was amazed how wet it was, it seemed that it may have rained the night before as it was not salty and even the upper sections were sopping. While it added to the excitement I also made the point to Glen that it’s good to climb in all conditions to better prepare you for those times you do get caught out and can’t so easily escape:
We both agreed that with the waves seemingly crashing in closer and closer in the zawn we would move to another face. So Glen had his second bash at the classic Wheely Things, an awesome crack climb. Despite having better jamming technique this time round he once again lost the plot and piked out by escaping the system half way up. I reckon that slab and crack climbing are the two techniques that really help improve anyone’s climbing, so will be encouraging him to work on this route again soon:
I then maximised use of the new gear and led Hands Up solely on all six of his new tri-cams. It’s a great climb that is awful to protect, until you get tri-cams! The last time I did this route with them I reckoned they looked ordinary placements, but then Steve followed up and after attaching himself to each one and then falling on them. They all held even with his more substantial, than my, frame:
Now being January and the promise of a thirty plus degree day. However, with a strong south westerly coming off the ocean it had felt wintery all morning, so we decided to head to a face that was north facing with full sun. Hathersage is a route that Lou managed to deck out from and was amazingly looked after by Narana and Geoff until the State Emergency Service (SES) and St John’s Ambulance arrived, on mass, and she was helivaced to Perth. Glen happened to be with the second SES crew that arrived at the scene. So I was a little surprised he wanted to lead the climb:
Well maybe it was the graveyard that I found in a crevice near the climb, or the memories of Lou being stretchered out to a safe place to be winched up but he didn’t get much higher than the image above. Taking his first lead fall (while he had rope out to clip the next piece!) he decided to back off. So Lou you’ll be pleased to know he conceded it’s a hard lead, but that said he was perfectly safe with the use of cams:
Just to even things up I decided to repeat a route Craig and I put up back in 2009 called The Plough, which was named after the pub we used to camp at in the heart of the UK Peak District in Hathersage. The climb in true gritstone style has a bold and runout top, from which Glen reckoned I may have decked out from if I’d fallen. It was awesome and had me right on the edge, then despite the calls of “this is madness and desperate” Glen managed to second it cleanly. As we walked out we both agreed it had been a great day out:
Now Wiggin’s had been working on his boulder wall and added several sections, so he invited everyone round for a play on Wednesday. I had also managed to tee him up for an outdoor climb on Thursday morning, and based on his recent track record of injuring himself by going too hard on his wall I warned him to be sensible. Well luckily he was but I however was not… and while attempting the final moves of a no feet hand traverse on the top of the wall I slipped and swung back into another wall landing foot first on a hold – ouch:
Well that put paid to all climbing ideas for the rest of the week, and I spent several days with my foot up and iced, as it is now. Then on Saturday night most of the SW crew piled round Lou’s house for a Spanish fiesta night full of Spanish’s dishes, sangria and of course bouldering. A great night had by all, and of course I didn’t even bother to take my shoes. Others however did and below is the carnage that was left, me thinks some better quality crash mats are in order Lou. However, I was able to hobble about better than the last few days so I teed up a morning climb at Wellly Dam for the last day of my holiday:
So the next day I picked Howsie up and we went up the hill, now for those that read my emails you’ll know the climbing here is usually pretty full on. So why with a bung ankle, and my Housemaid’s knee still playing up, would I go here. Simple really… there is no walk in during which I might do something silly. Whether climbing is something silly is a whole other matter. So Howsie jumped on first lead so I could test my ability on top rope, and as long as I was careful with how I placed and applied pressure to my foot the ankle seemed to hold up okay:
We normally climb here early in the morning before work, as the day is only just waking up. As such the light is low and the time is limited, today however with a reasonable start of 7:30 at the crag and the whole morning to play we had a greater ability to soak up some of the other aspects that climbing gives us. Such as great views across the landscape, this one showing our lonely car and in the background Wellington Dam. The largest reservoir in the southwest of WA and all that water is now way too salty to drink and also in truth too salty for irrigation:
This morning we were also lucky to see more than the usual 3-5 red tailed cockatoos. There must have been a good dozen fly over and the cries of others could be heard from several direction across the valley. This pair was awesome to watch, a male and female who sat together and groomed each other for a good half hour. Just for these guys I wish I had brought my SLR camera instead of the handy point and shoot:
For my lead I plumped for one of the easier lines here, thinking it would be good because of the big holds and plenty of foot holds to choose from. It all seemed like the perfect choice until I got to the sting in the tail past the last bolt. A high left foot that takes all the weight and then needs to be used to push you up and left to a hidden hold and that hurt. But as Wolfgang Güllich used to say “you have to learn to push through the pain”. How do I know that… well I’ve climbed with someone who used to climb with him of course. So as I belayed Howsie up I made use of the freshly painted posts and adjusted my trusty crate into a foot stool. Now that was a comfy and welcome belay position:
Now you may notice something with this image, as Howsie raps down the climb I just did. It is strange but the last time we used this rope it was long enough and then some for this crag. But today it was only just long enough, in fact for some climbs the seconder had to make a few moves before there was enough rope to start belaying them. We are still scratching our heads as to why this is, as the rope has been used here before and we have never noticed this:
Now the next picture is not up for any real reason other than I really liked it. If I got all poetic I’d start to talk about coming out of the darkness into the light, or something equally corny. But I just liked it and being one of the climbs that gave Howsie lots of trouble it was good to see him cruise up it, while I on the other hand held on far too tightly but at least managed to get up without slipping off:
It was at this time that Steve and Leanne turned up and not having climbed outdoor much at all in what seems a long time, they set about conquering the easiest and shortest route on the main walls. They also came armed with sippy mugs brimming with hot tea that looked so inviting. So not needing to rush onward to get to work we put the kettle on and made a cuppa for ourselves:
With piping hot teat cooling down I then ran up Pocket Knife to warm us back up and prepare Howsie for his next led. He’s led this once before but is yet to get it clean. Red Alert could get its name from the dodgy low bolts, the loose flaky holds or the need to trust the small holds up an old blast hole. Regardless of the reason it is a fine line and stiff lead, and unfortunately his head said stop when the small holds appeared, so he pumped out and had to rest:
Meanwhile Steve was onto Welcome to Edges, the original warm up route on the wall. Only this time we convinced him to try the start an alternative but what we think is much more classy way, which he managed (maybe boosted by the coke!) and agreed was far superior. But you may be wondering why he seems to have a knotted rope hanging off the back of his harness. All will become clear later:
Craig had also rocked up in the big bus with his family and friends, another person who has been absent from climbing for a very long time. However, with a trade as a mechanic his finger strength never seems to dwindle (but his stamina does) and he managed to second Red Alert without a slip. The main reason for this image is to show the loose flaky holds his right hand is on. These are very loose and even more so than I remember when I was last on this before the UK trip:
So when I went up I had a wiggle of the small flakes, which without too much trouble popped out. This then led to some more small loose rocks falling out and so it went on. Eventually a flake about a meter long and a foot wide broke off while I was simply using it as a musical instrument. You can see it in the background with the turf ripped up where it landed. We’ve had a good look at the line and decided we have made it safer and the route is probably the same grade:
Craig promptly led Murky Corner to set up a top rope and allow the family and friends a chance to try climbing. The two ladies did well getting half way up but then one of the young girls (I’m guessing no more than 10) went as high and threatened to pass their high point and embarrass them. It was a close call but we called it a draw and they were all chuffed to bits and madly keen to have another bash another time:
This image shows why Steve had his yellow tail, it was to allow Leanne to get past the low bouldery section of the climb. It’s simply too hard for her and requires a dyno which she knows from past experience would simply burn her out. So the rope allowed her to get past this and enjoy the more consistent upper section – what a good idea! She was also being taught how to clean the route after seconding and did a neat job of this on the two climbs she went up:
Now there is a route that I would like to aspire too. I’ve led it before, but not clean, and just before I left to go to the UK I bottled on it half way up, scaring myself silly. Go Go Gadget Arms is a fierce and unrelenting climb, the steepest at Welly Dam and boasting sections of super thin crimpy holds. It also happens to share the start and finish of Red Alert (or vice versa) and so we had left the rope up to try it. Craig sensibly walk away at this point, while Howsie and I had a bash.. a very bad bash:
We both dogged up pulling hard on the draws in several sections and at one point it was all too much so he took a seat to ponder on the next improbable section. Now we have both climbed here heaps and so have a good sense of the grading, with a lot of people saying the routes are well under-graded. This is one climb that we both felt that was even true for Welly Dam standards, so maybe my aspiration to lead this one clean is a bit of a fantasy:
After our embarrassing shenanigans there was time to squeeze one last route in to even up the leads, before Howsie would be whisked away by Nadia and Fergus for a sumptuous lunch at Hackersley Winery. So with only 9 min till the prearranged 11:30 finishing time I jumped on Ebonie Road as I knew it well but it wouldn’t be a giveaway. So Nadia timed me and I reckoned I needed 4min. I hadn’t however accounted for my ankle or tiredness, which made me stop and think more than usual but I was up and back on the deck (having been safely lowered of course) in 4 min. Howsie then managed to get up and down in the remaining 5 min and the day was saved:
Except that by now my ankle was craving recovery time. That said Steve (who happens to be a physio) agrees with my approach of a little bit of exercise, i.e. not to the point of (too much) discomfort, can be a good thing to keep mobility. The recovery time was not however to come just then as I belayed Craig up Ebonie Road and then Murky Corner so he could clean both of them. Then Oyukha kindly made me a very yummy and welcome fish finger burger and cuppa before I headed home:
Back here I have spent way too much time typing this email, but it has meant that my foot has been raised and rested. With luck we may be back at Welly Dam this Thursday, and maybe I’ll get forced to attempt the first lead on the recently refurbished Red Alert!
Thanks to everyone for reading and also to those present that helped make it yet another a great morning out.
Sandbagged 