I wasn’t going to go out this weekend but I simply couldn’t resists the urge to say yes to Wiggins when he texted to say there was a Saturday morning met at Wilyabrup. In truth our house is probably a more relaxed place for the girls without me there, as my need to ‘get things done’ tends to make them feel like they should also be doing things. Excuses and rationales for me going out climbing aside, as I drove down at 6’ish for the meet I was wondering if anyone else would be there:
As a friend once told us (several times) fortune favours the brave and it came true on this occasion. I could see the sky was clearer in the direction I was heading and we were greeted with mostly blues skies, but better still dry rock. This morning’s mottle crew comprised Andrew (who hadn’t climbed on trad for over a year), Wiggins (who seems to have injured himself on his Ben Moon woodie just before every opportunity to climb outdoors for as long as I can remember), Steve (who is going in for knee surgery next week, so should be being sensible) and Ryan (who hadn’t been outdoors since our recent trip to the Blue Mountains):
With a crew of five I had the chance to bring out the big guns (camera) and do my mountain goat routine and dash about checking out the best angles to snap that cover shot. I brought out the SLR last week at Moses too and get a few remarks on the images taken, so that in part inspired me to do the same this week:
So with a bunch of mostly battered and knackered old cronies they set off, picking fun but relaxed lines so as not to do any more injuries (whether physical or simply denting pride). Willyabrup has a fine selection of lower grade climbs, but today there were several groups coming out so a number of the easy lines soon had ropes being thrown down them. Luckily we picked two that the groups tend to stay away from:
Wiggins took a steady pace up Glory, taking his time to find the best holds on the overhang more so due to the lack of gear below him than it being particularly hard. Now I’m not sure if it was because he knew I’d be taking photos (when don’t I?!) but he had forgotten to wear his helmet (so Tara). After this climb he realised the error of his ways and the tin pot was soon in its rightful place:
Meanwhile Ryan ambled up Hitching, and seemed unfazed by the lack of gear on the crux section. It seems that the weeks of not climbing had dented his ability or calm approach, as he cruised up the thin moves with just a micro wire that was getting further and further below him:
Both parties topped out almost at the same time. Wiggins had to suck in on the finally run out slabby section. While we had blue skies the sea was, like last week, pretty choppy. This time however there was minimal sea spray and the rock was in great condition. Not one to miss out on a climb I dashed back down to follow Wiggins up, just because it was the longer route:
Then back up the top to take advantage of more top down photography. This time Steve was on the point end, and was determined to have a crack at Top Gear and started in great form looking strong and comfortable. His confidence was boosted by the placement of several tri-cams, which as you may remember are his favourite type of protection. It was a shame that the top ropes were up by now, and it was impossible to avoid them in some images:
Andrew was also up, his first trad lead in at least a year. So he set his sights on Tom Thumb, which may seem to some an easy bag based on the grade but it was a nervous runout start. Soon he was placing gear and making sure every wire and hex was a solid placement:
It didn’t take him too long to work his way up this fine line, topping out in the sun that had just bathed the top of the crag. He later confessed to feeling pretty nervous but it didn’t show and it looked like he was climbing in good style:
I was busily running between both climbers to make sure I didn’t miss the best parts of each climb, so I quickly dashed back to watch Steve attempt the crux of his line. It’s a pumpy, very exposed and awkward crux. Much as his hands look solid the silk nature of the rock means that any sweat makes the hold feel pretty average. He gave it a number of great attempts but eventually ran out of gas:
I left Steve to keep trying and dashed back down to follow Andrew up, which freed up Ryan to head over and follow Steve up. In truth I’m not that keen on Top Gear so was far happier having fun jamming up Tom Thumb. When Andrew and I came down the fate of Steve’s lead was all too apparent:
So Andrew and left them and went across to climb Totally Awesome. I was feeling good and the climb felt so good, even better for the fact that I only used tri-cams to protect it. There is something nice about using just one type of gear, it makes you think that bit harder I guess. Anyway as I belayed Andrew up I could see the other three had got up their route, and Ryan not only led it but also then gave a bit of a master class on how to get through that crux:
Andrew had picked the line that I led, but it was a bit more than he was ready for so it took a while for him to work his way up. His forearms were pretty pumped on the steep lower wall but he eventually worked the sequence and slapped for the thank good holds:
One of the problems with tri-cams is that they can be tricky to get out at times. This is especially true for the smaller sizes, when it can be tricky to try and get a nut key in to work them loose. Luckily the one that gave him the most problem was just above a good ledge, but I have a sneaky suspicion that it was never really stuck he just wanted to rest his arms before the finale of this climb(!):
Wiggins was next up and asked me what he should try next. With most of the good easy lines now in use by groups to directed him to Hole World, knowing it was a tad tricky but having faith in his abilities. He certainly made the start look easy but then got stuck at the steep wall. Well if he had read the guide he would have expected that:
As he was trying to work the wall out I wandered off to see if the King Skin that we spied earlier had come out and sure enough he was basking in what Lisa would called the dappled light. There was enough sun poking through for him to keep popping out and then when climbers went past dash for cover:
Back to Wiggins and in time to see him give it a really good shot. Unfortunately he popped off and as the ropes tightened his top piece managed to lever off a decent sized block. If you look closely you might see it hurtling towards the deck, and fortunately Steve was on the ball and managed to avoid being clunked on the noggin:
OK so the rock was pretty hard to see, so below I have enlarged the image so you can see it. Check out the bottom left corner:
So with that little episode and I can’t blame him, Wiggins retreated (and probably cursed me for sand bagging him). With half the route led someone had to finish it off so Ryan volunteered and was subsequently seconded by Steve, Wiggins and myself. Sirja I hope you are happy now that you have seen that Ryan is OK and well and still climbing like a demon:
Meanwhile Andrew fancied one more lead so took a mixture of gear from the four racks that had been brought along and mucked about with it on Orryjohn. Tiered as he was kinda enjoyed the climb, finding it a bit strange. I didn’t drill down to why he felt that way as I really like the route. However time was ticking by and with all the gear mixed up it was time to sort it all out and head off:
It is fair to say that with all the thrills and spills it was a very entertaining and satisfying reunion of the old boys, and a great send off for Steve as he will now need to be very sensible and stay away from climbing until his knee is completely healed and ready for action. That means Top Gear will have to wait some time before he can have another attempt:
Sandbagged 