Way back in March 2013 when we were still discovering the delights Lost Buttress had to offer, Kym did a couple of solo laps on what we called Scarred for Life (12). It looked so much fun that I followed up in the same style and promptly pulled off the hold that he has his right foot on. The 5kg block now sits in our garden, as a memento of when it unbalanced me and sent me falling onto the slippery wave washed boulders below. Someone was looking after me that day as I got away with compression damage and no broken bones. I’ve never been back on this route, so when Lou wanted to head down there for a bit of relaxed trad climbing I had already decided today was going to be the day to jump on this climb:
On the drive in there was a lovely carpet python on the track, so I couldn’t help but jump out and take a few photos. The track is quite incised so, as it was early morning and he hadn’t warmed up yet, he was having difficulty getting off the track and into the vegetation. So I was lucky enough to pick him up and help him on his way:
It was forecast to be in the high 20s today, but for now it was still cool. As the waves rolled in they left a mist in their wake, which was drifting towards the shore as the rock was wet. But not wet enough to dampen our spirits:
I sent Lou on first lead, seeing how eager she was to get out on trad again. The last time we climbed was at Welly Dam and much as she likes the place she simply doesn’t trust bolts and keep saying how she is more comfortable on trad. She plumped for St Patrick (12) and wove her way up the wall and into the corner before committing to the crack and face. It took her a few goes to get the confidence to commit to the last moves but she finally went for it:
I then jumped on Flashback 17, a fiery little face climb that is easier for the tall although that is probably true for all bar roof climbs. The fingery lower portion certainly requires a bit of oomph but the hold did get bigger and the holds more reasonably spaced:
Lou then had a bash at No Nuts Required (13) and her head was not quite in the game so worked her way up the wall from left to right to left avoiding all the tricky bits. Next we went up what I reckon is one of the best routes here, Jenga 14 and the top layback flake is simply brilliant:
Lou then regained her leading mojo and had fun on Baby Shower (13) before I ended our session on Scarred for Life (12). This time I opted for a rope and gear and thoroughly enjoyed the line:
As Lou followed me up she seemed more concerned about the crashing waves than the moves on wet rocks. It was a fine climb to end the days relaxed morning on trad:
Sandbagged 